Chris Furman

iTrader: (118)

How do you have your fan mounted? What fan is that?

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

It's a WTF Windy fan. To mount it I just drilled and tapped a hole in the left pod plate. Some folks are using a right side pod plate on the left to accomplish the same thing, but drilling a hole was cheaper than a $20 part. I plan on drawing up a replacement pod plate with the fan mount integrated and putting it on Shapeways, but haven't had time.

big_ads

iTrader: (88)

Hudy has a bushing set to use two of their touring car set up stations. You can also order an f1 setup station from hudy that comes with the pair of bushings and two setup stands.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hudy-un...FRc6gQody-cBwA

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Thanks, Hudy is a bit more than I'm going to spend but I appreciate all the input.

Dave

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Any touring car setup station should work with an F1. The Hudy spacers are nice, but not necessary. Unfortunately, because of the metric front wheel bearings, most pan car setup stations won't work with what's essentially a skinny pan car.

big_ads

iTrader: (88)

I already had the setup station but was able to order the bushings themselves for $16. Then you could use any other touring setup station.

Moogumby

iTrader: (32)

So I put my tires on the car last night and notice that on the front end the spring side of the pin is rubbing on the tire. is this normal and I just need to add another spacer?

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like you don't have the kingpin screwed into the steering knuckle enough. With the kit .45mm springs you should have one 1mm shim between the spring and the "E" clip for around a 4mm ride height. Shim between the knuckle and the lower pivot to set droop.
Added note, one 1mm shim if running the battery in line and forward. If you have the battery transverse and back then you probably do not need that shim as the front end will be lighter.

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Is there a base kit setup to work from? I went through the manual and saw nothing. I went to CRCs website and also saw nothing except the manual under setups/technical documents

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

I know they don't have setup info but here is the best starting one. Build it per the manual with the battery transverse and the car balanced r/l. The kit springs, oil and baseline are close to spot on. They are also very close to what the team guys run. Sometimes the try something with a new part but there isn't much trickery other than adjust caster, camber, droop and toe to suit what the track is giving you.
F1 on rubber tires is more learning how to deal with the tires and not over driving the car.

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Are toe/camber specs listed somewhere in the manual as well (I can't seem to find them)? What about droop f/r? Perhaps I missed this info. New to F1 cars but I think these are still adjustable on this thing. Also what grease are you guys using in those torsion tubes? This kit I have was used w/o anything so I need to get some supplies. What about shock preload? I see the total shock length is listed but what about the preload? Is there a good starting point? Can anyone give me a briefing on how the preload effects handling? I assume it would effect droop as well as rearward weight transfer?

Dave

shortcut

iTrader: (55)

I contacted Brian at crc when I built the car, he is a wealth of knowledge. There is 10k in the tubes and 35wt in the shock and the preload is what he recommended I just don't remember the numbers.

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

I guess I just find it odd that I have to go to the company to get such basic info about setup which I feel should at least be in the manual but I'll email him. Actually I only have johns email so I'll email him. The last car I had w/ a setup like this was a 10L a long time ago and I don't recall what did what w/ that pod setup. Is rear axle height something that is played w/ with these things or do they just get it as low as possible for ride height and LCG?


Dave

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Dave,

John left CRC some months ago. Brian is da man! He is at [email protected]

Setups change; so, getting the absolute latest from him is best. Plus, he can suggest per your track situation too.

Bill

al dente

All these things you are asking about are adjustable, and have an impact on the performance of the car. droop in the rear of the car is adjusted by changing the length of the shock. the longer you make the shock, the more droop you have in the rear pod. spring tension should be set so that the car is flat when sitting on the ground and ready to race. not enough tension, and the center of the car will sag, too much and it will peak at the center pivot. we always run just a shade of toe out (about 1/2 degree) and id start with 1 degree of camber. more camber will give you more steering, to a point (about 2 degrees, then you will start to lose contact patch with the track. we are generally running light dampening in the tubes (between 5 and 10k).

hope this helps.