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iTrader: (88)

Usually 1050 grams

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Correct! I'm at 1051.

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Hi Burt,

Just enough to give the ball end some additional movement within the opening. Both side-to-side and top-to-bottom.

Pay closest attention to the back side of the opening which does become a unwanted backstop for the ball stud.

Bill

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Dang! I was thinking there were different weights for full-size vs. shorty packs.

OK to 1050 grams. So, I need to add 65 grams to my car.

Any suggestions on some nice weights to do that with? Have available space next to the flat-mounted servo (needed to balance chassis), on top of the shorty pack (centered towards the front) and a narrow patch behind the ESC/Receiver (centered in the rear).

Thanks.

Bill

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I ran home and put the steering limiter mod on the car. I used 2 x 5 mm spacers and 15mm screws to replace the back screw on each side of the carbon lower arm. The steering arm hits the limiter about the same time the shaft of the pivot ball touches the knuckle at full throw. The screws come out a half millimeter more than the stock setup. The head of screw just comes up over the top of the arm on the limiter with plenty of clearance. Very nice solution and big thanks to the mind that thought it up!

aittam

Please, post pics for the steering mod.

diHib

That car looks awesome!
Is the F1 class big in the US?

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Depends where you live in the country. But, most of the bigger on-road races feature the class.

First track experience with it will be this Sunday at Stockton, CA.

Bill

MarkBurgess

Hi Bill,

At the Snowbirds I added 72g to make the 1050g weight limit. So fairly similar to the amount you are adding.

What I wanted to do was keep the additional weight as low as possible. I'm running the small Sanwa servo flat on the chassis, so mounted a lot of weight on the free space around that. I also added some behind the shorty battery and in front of the speed controller.

The rest I've added as low as possible next to the LiPo. A quick fix for this is to tape it to the side of the battery.

The UK Nationals are running 950g with 1S LiPo and 13.5 blinky. I've now fitted the electrics for this and taken the extra weight off. Which got me +10g over the limit which is a good place to be.

Hope that helps,
Mark

MarkBurgess

+1

This thread has been very useful to share hints and tips. Yesterday I fitted a steering limiter mod of similar design to my car, and will report back after the next UK National.

Thanks to Bill for a clear description of how to open up the Steering Block. Reading it helped my understand both the work and why it would help. Thanks
Now...where did I put my small files...?

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Hi Mark,

I found Tamiya makes a thin flat plate weighing 50 gm that goes under a full-sized lipo battery pack. I plan on adding one under the shorty pack and ESC/Receiver at the rear. Had to order from Hong Kong; so, it won't be here for awhile.

Took the very underweight WTF-1 out for a maiden outing yesterday. Wasn't quite like my CRC WGT and 1/12th scale cars where I won the first races they were in...Got a lot to learn about setting up and driving this puppy.

Thanks for the help. Keep it coming...LOL

Bill

InspGadgt

What's the advantage of a physical steering limiter over just using dual rate or EPA?

nwagner

iTrader: (6)

The limiter helps to prevent the steering block from overturning, and minimizing the chance of breaking, if you snag a wall. Dual rate doesn't.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Agreed, it just stops over rotation in a crash. My dual rate stops short of the limiter when the car is live at full throw.

InspGadgt

Interesting...I would think the sudden hard stop would increase the chances of breaking the knuckle. The only F1 I've really had issues with the knuckle breaking has been the SP-1. With my Tamiya F1s and my WTF1 I rarely if ever break knuckles.