CRC F1
#331
#332
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
1) Full (-) Castor. AKA all washers forward.
2) 1.5deg (-) camber
3) .50 front springs
4) 30wt oil and purple spring on the middle shock.
5) Most important thing is droop... start at 1.5mm and increase till steering becomes more reactive but not twitchy.
Oh yeah... 15-25% drag brake.
Last edited by YoDog; 02-17-2015 at 03:44 PM.
#333
Nice post YoDog. That is exactly how my new WTF-1 is setup for its first race...except the caster which will have the upper arms in the middle (one washer on each side).
We will be at the Stockton Fairgrounds for F1 racing on carpet this Sunday, Feb 22.
Bill
We will be at the Stockton Fairgrounds for F1 racing on carpet this Sunday, Feb 22.
Bill
#334
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Since moving to Santa Barbara, I frequent TQ and Camarillo more and more.
I had been struggling with inconsistent front grip for quite a while but when I dug in my heals and really looked at what was happening, I realized that the weight wasn't transferring forward fast enough at turn in so the car would push terribly at higher speeds. Once I realized this, it was much easier to decide what to change. Now if I can get more durable steering knuckles, I'll be a really happy camper.
#335
#336
Does battery position affect steering?
What is the difference between:
- front battery, esc in the back
- front esc, battery in the back
Thanks.
What is the difference between:
- front battery, esc in the back
- front esc, battery in the back
Thanks.
#338
Just finished putting a D4 21.5 motor in the WTF-1; so, it is nearly done. Only need some titanium steering links from Lunsford (which should arrive tomorrow); TOP ball cups; paint the driver; add ballast to bring the puppy up to legal weight and balance the chassis; and, figure out the gearing.
Heading out to the garage to take pics now.............Back from my garage and here are the results.
That is a Hobbywing Just Stock ESC. At under $50, this is the lowest cost ESC I have ever owned...By several times...LOL
Do have a new Ferrari F-60 body from TQ Racing to paint and sticker up properly. The pictured body is just something to get the car on the track this weekend...OK, it's a hack job...more LOL.
In my real racing days, I always drove formula cars; so, it is about time that I finally got one of these.
Bill
#339
Before installing the #1544 Upper Arm/Steering Block Ball into the #3221 Steering Block, Dumper reminded me to increase the size of the opening in the Steering Block to prevent the Ball from coming into contact with the edge of the opening.
Actually, this trick works for all CRC pan cars with the newer front ends. I have been doing this for years with great results in durability on my WGT cars.
I use a small rat tail hobby file to do this modification to the Steering Block.
Bill
#340
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
YoDog,
Before installing the #1544 Upper Arm/Steering Block Ball into the #3221 Steering Block, Dumper reminded me to increase the size of the opening in the Steering Block to prevent the Ball from coming into contact with the edge of the opening.
Actually, this trick works for all CRC pan cars with the newer front ends. I have been doing this for years with great results in durability on my WGT cars.
I use a small rat tail hobby file to do this modification to the Steering Block.
Bill
Before installing the #1544 Upper Arm/Steering Block Ball into the #3221 Steering Block, Dumper reminded me to increase the size of the opening in the Steering Block to prevent the Ball from coming into contact with the edge of the opening.
Actually, this trick works for all CRC pan cars with the newer front ends. I have been doing this for years with great results in durability on my WGT cars.
I use a small rat tail hobby file to do this modification to the Steering Block.
Bill
Something else that I just added is replacing the rear most screws holding the pivot block to the lower suspension plate with longer screws through 8mm long standoffs that act as steering stops since the WTF-1 doesn't have anything to prevent the steering blocks from over rotating. So far so good.
#341
Tech Elite
iTrader: (38)
Thanks Bill, I'll give that a try.
Something else that I just added is replacing the rear most screws holding the pivot block to the lower suspension plate with longer screws through 8mm long standoffs that act as steering stops since the WTF-1 doesn't have anything to prevent the steering blocks from over rotating. So far so good.
Something else that I just added is replacing the rear most screws holding the pivot block to the lower suspension plate with longer screws through 8mm long standoffs that act as steering stops since the WTF-1 doesn't have anything to prevent the steering blocks from over rotating. So far so good.
#342
Tech Champion
YoDog,
Before installing the #1544 Upper Arm/Steering Block Ball into the #3221 Steering Block, Dumper reminded me to increase the size of the opening in the Steering Block to prevent the Ball from coming into contact with the edge of the opening.
Actually, this trick works for all CRC pan cars with the newer front ends. I have been doing this for years with great results in durability on my WGT cars.
I use a small rat tail hobby file to do this modification to the Steering Block.
Bill
Before installing the #1544 Upper Arm/Steering Block Ball into the #3221 Steering Block, Dumper reminded me to increase the size of the opening in the Steering Block to prevent the Ball from coming into contact with the edge of the opening.
Actually, this trick works for all CRC pan cars with the newer front ends. I have been doing this for years with great results in durability on my WGT cars.
I use a small rat tail hobby file to do this modification to the Steering Block.
Bill
#344
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
At the birds I added a good thick layer of rubberized glue (I got it from DD audio) to keep it from cracking. And glued the threaded cap into the nuckles. I had some hard hits in the quals and never broke them... But when they do I will open up the slot cause that is what looks to be what breaks them... I can see a spot where it looks to have made a dent in the plastic but after adding the rib of glue over the top it didn't break
#345
What is the legal weight ?