26LikesCRC F1
10-12-2014, 04:55 PM
#196
Brian, are the front end shims in the kit for ride height adjustment or to alter the top arm geometry. Unless I just skipped over it I don't see them addressed in the manual.
If they're for ride height I'd assume they'd go between the lower arm and the lower mount; only feasible place I can see without changing angles. Problem is, they then fill the void where the front wing mates with the front end, unless the centers of the shim are cut out into a U shape. Am I missing something obvious?
If they're for ride height I'd assume they'd go between the lower arm and the lower mount; only feasible place I can see without changing angles. Problem is, they then fill the void where the front wing mates with the front end, unless the centers of the shim are cut out into a U shape. Am I missing something obvious?
10-12-2014, 08:44 PM
#197
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They can be used for either, but be careful not to lift the locator tangs out of the slots in the chassis. I have found that shimming above the riser block, but below the cross plate is better. You can also put washers under the cross plate where the 4 screws fasten it down,If you go this route, be sure to put a shim between the upper suspension arm holder and the wing, or the wing will have up and down play in it.
You are correct in seeing that the shim will not allow the wing to fit if put in this area, I have cut the u shape out so the wing can slide in.
Hope this helps.
Sorry to jump in, but Brian is on his way to Vegas. I will be joining him there tomorrow.
You are correct in seeing that the shim will not allow the wing to fit if put in this area, I have cut the u shape out so the wing can slide in.
Hope this helps.
Sorry to jump in, but Brian is on his way to Vegas. I will be joining him there tomorrow.
10-13-2014, 06:24 AM
#198
That's cool, thanks for the reply. Cutting the U shape out is the route I went, along with spacers on the 4 mounting screws between the lower arm and lower mount so the graphite didn't bow when tightened.
10-13-2014, 11:40 AM
#199
They can be used for either, but be careful not to lift the locator tangs out of the slots in the chassis. I have found that shimming above the riser block, but below the cross plate is better. You can also put washers under the cross plate where the 4 screws fasten it down,If you go this route, be sure to put a shim between the upper suspension arm holder and the wing, or the wing will have up and down play in it.
You are correct in seeing that the shim will not allow the wing to fit if put in this area, I have cut the u shape out so the wing can slide in.
Hope this helps.
Sorry to jump in, but Brian is on his way to Vegas. I will be joining him there tomorrow.
You are correct in seeing that the shim will not allow the wing to fit if put in this area, I have cut the u shape out so the wing can slide in.
Hope this helps.
Sorry to jump in, but Brian is on his way to Vegas. I will be joining him there tomorrow.
Good luck in Lost Wages!!
When you get a moment could you take a picture of the wing/shim/arm mount interface for the visual learners amongst us?
Thanks!
Scottrik
10-13-2014, 08:21 PM
#200
Here's mine, Scott. I can't say if everyone else's the same.
Dammit I still can't post images or links. How many posts do you have to make in order to have permissions? The error message only says "a certain number of posts".
You'll have to remove the spaces in the link for it to work.
https : // www . dropbox. com /s/db6gm0i01x07cbi/20141013_220111.jpg?dl=0
Dammit I still can't post images or links. How many posts do you have to make in order to have permissions? The error message only says "a certain number of posts".
You'll have to remove the spaces in the link for it to work.
https : // www . dropbox. com /s/db6gm0i01x07cbi/20141013_220111.jpg?dl=0
10-13-2014, 09:31 PM
#201
Here's mine, Scott. I can't say if everyone else's the same.
Dammit I still can't post images or links. How many posts do you have to make in order to have permissions? The error message only says "a certain number of posts".
You'll have to remove the spaces in the link for it to work.
https : // www . dropbox. com /s/db6gm0i01x07cbi/20141013_220111.jpg?dl=0
Dammit I still can't post images or links. How many posts do you have to make in order to have permissions? The error message only says "a certain number of posts".
You'll have to remove the spaces in the link for it to work.
https : // www . dropbox. com /s/db6gm0i01x07cbi/20141013_220111.jpg?dl=0
Seems to be a problem with that link. E-mail the pics to me on [email protected] and I'll get 'em posted up here for you.
10-14-2014, 05:36 AM
#203
I just cut my spacer into 2 pieces with the groove in each piece. I used the 1mm thick spacer i believe. I used 4 1mm spacers between the carbon fiber brace and the riser block. I then used the remaining piece from cutting the grooved spacer as a 1mm shim between the wing and the brace.
10-19-2014, 10:00 PM
#204
10-20-2014, 04:31 AM
#205
Should be just a matter of swapping the battery and speedo positions. The battery may sit back a little more than stock depending on the size of your servo.
10-20-2014, 09:40 AM
#206
Well there is enough room in front of the battery stop but it moves the servo too far forward. So I'm using the servo as the battery stop. I'm more concerned with how it affects handling since the movement direction of the servo saver and the ackerman will be different with the upright servo. It is a pretty popular setup on the F104 cars but I never could get it to work well on my F104. Right now I've got the servo Shoe Goo'd into the car but I thought of an idea last night that will allow me to mount the servo in with the servo mounts and slide it forward and back to adjust ackerman. I can Shoe Goo slotted plates on the sides of the servo and use set screws that screw through the servo mounts into the slots to slide the servo forward/back.
10-20-2014, 09:42 AM
#207
Oh and I just wanted to say a big thanks to CRC for having a new car available for me to buy at the IIC after my SP1 car failed to finish a single qualifier! If I had just a little more time on the WTF-1 I would have done much better. I could tell from the run in the main that the car was really good. I just didn't have enough time to tweak it out.
10-24-2014, 04:52 AM
#208
Oh and I just wanted to say a big thanks to CRC for having a new car available for me to buy at the IIC after my SP1 car failed to finish a single qualifier! If I had just a little more time on the WTF-1 I would have done much better. I could tell from the run in the main that the car was really good. I just didn't have enough time to tweak it out.
Shame I didn't know you'd done that, as I'd have happily given advice and checked the set up for you.
Hugely impressed by the handling of my car at the IIC. Set up was pretty much as kit instructions, with no changes to oils or springs. I did end up running more front camber (between 1.5 and 2 degrees), and 4.5mm ride height all round.
My thanks to Brian and Mario for their help and advice in my first meeting with the WTF-1. And to my Timezone pit buddies Mark Day and Patrick Moorehead for their great company and banter all week
Looks like we're changing plans for 2015 and will now be able to race my WTF-1 at both the Snowbirds and IIC.
10-25-2014, 03:59 PM
#209
I haven't had much time to dial it in yet. Just got an XTI 1/12th also so I have been getting that little guy up to speed.
One thing I have noticed is that my F1 pushes really bad at higher speeds but has plenty of steering in slower corners. This makes it very difficult to be consistent from lap to lap. Any suggestions?
10-25-2014, 05:28 PM
#210
add more caster maybe , what is your setup ?