MAD916

TQ'd Last Thursday night the first night out...... nice ride looking forward to the season

MarkBurgess

That's odd...I took my F60 shell from my old F104 V2, and with light trimming it fitted straight onto the WTF1. It will do for a pre-IIC shakedown run in the UK.

Most shells need a fair bit of cutting to fit the narrow rubber cars. I managed to make an older Protoform shell designed for the F103 to fit my rubber car with some work.

My advice is stick with it

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

That's what I was somewhat poorly expressing. The F60 fits quite nicely however the new Protoform body doesn't. The rear of the new body is too low profile so it sits on the shock brace. This will bind the rear end as it sits now. I hope to post some pics tomorrow.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Looks like I just need to keep on trimming...
Can you post a pic of the car on the bench so I can see the ground clearance to the bottom of the body? I just want to see how high the pod sits.

Thanks

jarkko

I am expecting my WTF-1 kit to arrive soon and I'm wondering about which servo I can fit in.
I have a couple which have been used in CRC's 1/12 cars. One is Futaba 6250 and the other is a JR/Graupner. They both have a few mm more length than the Sanwa which was recommended here a few pages back.

I'm asking because we don't have any of these cars in my country yet so there is no way to test or take measures myself.

What is the max. servo hight from chassis up that fits under for example the popular F60 body?

al dente

the edges of the body are flush with the bottom of the chassis.they have to be to clear the ride height gauge in tech.

dumper

iTrader: (1)

Any 1/12th scale sized servo will fit.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Thought I'd post some pics of the build.

MarkBurgess

WTF built and shakedown run completed. Two new shells painted, cut out and finished.

Packing for the IIC will start on the tone...

MJSGas

Does anyone have any setups to share.

al dente

The parts, springs, and directions included in the box will give you the set up we have been running. you may want to space the rear of the car out to 190.

MJSGas

Thank you Mario

Any suggestions on camber/castor/toe-in. Also king pin length.

Thanks again

al dente

All good questions, but all things that change in the natural course of tuning. Start with one degree of camber. More camber will give the car more steering all the way through the corner, but too much will make the car tippy. If you go way overboard, you will take away the contact patch of the tire, and it will go from tippy to push.
I run both caster shims back, from what I have experienced, moving them forward will calm the car down.
I use kingpin length to adjust the attitude of the car in the corner. A looser kingpin will cause the car to roll more in the corner, which gives it more steering, especially at entry and mid corner, but will also make it more tippy. When measuring kingpin length, I measure from the bottom of the white spacers to the e clip groove. Start at .450, adjust from there.
We always run just a shade of toe out (1/2) to make the car stable down the straight.

Remember that everyone drives differently and you have to find a setup that works for your style. There is no magic setup that works for everyone.

mackin

iTrader: (4)

Here is something else to consider. Full size battery pack with the speeder and receiver on either side of the battery. Added weight won't hurt the car at all. Just another option to think about.

chuck

dumper

iTrader: (1)

I ran the first two UF1 Midwest races at the Gate this past weekend. TQ and won all three mains on Saturday, and won two out of the three mains on Sunday. Hot lap and quickest averages every time on the track. I ran my standard setup, which is what comes in the box. Use all of the kit springs and 10k in the tubes. I also used the CRC Part#4185 F1 body. The car was on rails all weekend on the TCS tires which is what we will be using at IIC.