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Old 06-27-2005, 05:51 PM   #1
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Default Overheating Problem

What ever I do the motor's negative wire falls off. Im Running a GT7 and a vantage motor (8x1, 8x1, or 10x1). Please help.
I have tried:

Longer Motor Wires
Replacing Shotky Diode
Different Gearing based off of the locals gearing
3 Diff Motors
There is no transmission binding

Leaning toward the speed controller

Thanks
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:11 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Carey
What ever I do the motor's negative wire falls off. Im Running a GT7 and a vantage motor (8x1, 8x1, or 10x1). Please help.
I have tried:

Longer Motor Wires
Replacing Shotky Diode
Different Gearing based off of the locals gearing
3 Diff Motors
There is no transmission binding

Leaning toward the speed controller

Thanks
try running a fan to cool the endbell. and oh ya stay off the brakes
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:15 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Carey
What ever I do the motor's negative wire falls off. Im Running a GT7 and a vantage motor (8x1, 8x1, or 10x1). Please help.
I have tried:

Longer Motor Wires
Replacing Shotky Diode
Different Gearing based off of the locals gearing
3 Diff Motors
There is no transmission binding

Leaning toward the speed controller

Thanks
usually the + side would come off before the - side. Are you using the right type of soider? Some soiders have a lower melting point than others.
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:33 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pops
usually the + side would come off before the - side. Are you using the right type of soider? Some soiders have a lower melting point than others.
mmmm no the NEG would come off first. electricty flows backwards. but I do like the idea about the solder not being the right type install a fan sounds silly but they do make a differance
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Old 06-27-2005, 09:08 PM   #5
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Hello Johnny,

I am also running mod motor (9T, 10T) under hot weather.
This is what I do -
(1) install a little 5V cool fans, source the power from the BEC point of receiver. In my case, I point the fan towards the ESC, but you can always point it to the motor.
(2) ensure you are using the right type of soldering tips. I use Deans. And when you finish the soldering, make sure the contact look shiney. If this is not the case, your soldering gun might not have enough temperature. I used the one with 120W to 200W to solder my batteries, wires ...
(3) ensure right gear ratio, for 9T double on a smooth high speed track, I gear to 1:8to 1:8.5
(4) this is a bit exteme - but i saw this from Jap magazine before - glue a small piece of foam on the chassis and make it contactable to the motor. Before you run, soak the foam with some water.

Hope this help
By the way, which chassis you are running ?
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Old 06-27-2005, 09:26 PM   #6
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[QUOTE=ernestf](4) this is a bit exteme - but i saw this from Jap magazine before - glue a small piece of foam on the chassis and make it contactable to the motor. Before you run, soak the foam with some water.

QUOTE]

Actually, rcprofessor.com has designed a product similiar to that. It is far more efficient than any fan or heatsink. Our track locals are still testing with the prototype, but I hope it gos into production soon.
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Old 06-27-2005, 09:39 PM   #7
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Vantage arms....... what version of the motors are you running? Do you know if they are 4mm or 5mm blanks?

Do you break in the brushes for about 10+ minutes? How much timing? What springs? How big of track and what kind of Final Drives you running? Are the armatures grooved on the stacks?

8x1 V2 can..... assuming a 5mm armature should easily make time at 12 deg timing with Spring Brushes and MR .35 springs. Geared anywhere from a 9.0 to a 8.0 depending on track size.

If you are running the Spring Edge brushes I would remove them as they are a different compound and a lot more aggressive than standard sprints.

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Old 06-28-2005, 07:08 AM   #8
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Surikarn 8x1 (4mm) with Edge Sprint Brushes at 12* timing. 8.39 Final Drive. Brrke in for 10 minutes at 1 amp. Thanks
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Old 06-28-2005, 07:14 AM   #9
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at first glance i thought this was an "overeating" thread.
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Old 06-28-2005, 07:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howard hudson
mmmm no the NEG would come off first. electricty flows backwards. but I do like the idea about the solder not being the right type install a fan sounds silly but they do make a differance
The only couple of times I've had a problem with overheating a motor, the + brush melted off and the + spring melted with a 7x1. I've just never seen the - side do that anywhere...
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Old 06-28-2005, 08:18 AM   #11
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Man heres what i think is going, it may not be right but its what i think

1) Possibly the wrong solder, make sure you have the right content, 60/40 i think i jsut buy the deans racing solder works a charm

2) What speedy are you running? as different speedys require different gauge wire maybe you have 12 and are meant to have 14 thats why its getting so hot its melting.

3) Gearing, maybe your gearing is wrong, does the whole motor get hot, try gearing up or depending on the track

4) Try Different timing around 14deg.

5) Try a cooling fan

6) You can always pull it apart and put it back together properly not saying that it isnt, but you can identify problems if there are any.
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Old 06-28-2005, 10:01 AM   #12
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First you should try a small fan. This alone may completely solve your problem. This is done on a driver by driver basis. For example, Peak driver Greg Hodapp must use a fan or his wires will come off. I run the same set-up and do not require a fan.

Different driving styles (use of brakes, throttle finger control) make a big difference.

The second thing to do is to re-work your wiring. Repeated soldering and unsoldering of the motor wire wire reduces the effectiveness of the solder joint. This increases the joint's resistance which increase heat and causes the joint to fail.

With your motor out of the car, romove as much solder from the endbell as possible and reapply some new 60/40 rosin core solder. Cut the end off your ESC motor wires (or install a new one) and begin with a freshly tinned end. Solder it to the endbell and your new better joint will be able to handle the heat.

I always make my ESC motor wires a bit longer so that from time to time I can cut the ends off and start new.
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Old 06-28-2005, 11:01 AM   #13
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I had the same experience with my V2. The only thing that helped was a change to a 5mm armature blank. The 4mm 8x1 aramature that it came with unsoldered almost everytime.
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Old 06-28-2005, 11:22 AM   #14
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hi johnny carey,

we make/sell coolcanfans with single or double fans and carbon fibre brackets for nearly all makes and models of car, drop me a pm if you are interested or want more info

J-P
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Old 06-28-2005, 12:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Carey
Surikarn 8x1 (4mm) with Edge Sprint Brushes at 12* timing. 8.39 Final Drive. Brrke in for 10 minutes at 1 amp. Thanks
Switch to a 5mm blank arm. I believe all the newest motors from Peak/Orion come with 5mm arms below 10 turns.

Jeff
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