Fly'n Fish

How much does the Alu weigh compared to the carbon I wonder?

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

+40 something grams.

johnsen-dk

Alu= 111g
Carbon= 69g

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

That would be just about perfect then. I have to add 40-50 grams just to make minimum weight. Has anyone tried it in lower traction conditions?

Also what kind of changes to setup are you guys having to make when you switch?

weekendracer_uk

Any must have parts for outdoor tarmac racing before I place an order for the T4 14 tomorrow ?

chasingthepack

front and rear belts,thats it,thats all thats broke on my car in 5 months
but for tuning a spring set (2.5 to 2.8)and arb set (front 1.5 to 1.3 ,rear 1.2 to 1.4),a spare diff can be useful for quick set up changes also a spare set of shocks but not essential
they really are a well built car and hard to break,
plenty of shims in various sizes 0.5mm 1mm and 2mm should be fine
when i got mine it came with the older black belts ,i changed them for the whites
and the obvious gearing depending on which class your in
66 to 72 spur and 33 to 40 pinnions for stock
and 20 to 28 pinion and i stick to the 84 spur for s/stock and mod
or the 64dp equivalent

daleburr

Welcome aboard John, glad you've seen the very orange light . This car is mega, you'll love it.

I'd say the only essential part is the front bumper brace (301215), which will save your chassis in a crash.

The kit front belt is fine, but the rear one can be a weak point. I use the Yoke BD7 rear belt instead (BD-189L) as it's cheap and very strong, and still free/flexible. Or use the Xray low-friction one (305447) if you don't mind the price.

The kit 2.5 springs will be about perfect for 17.5 if that's what you're planning to race. A couple of pairs of 2.7s will give you some tuning ability.

Don't bother with spares, everything else on the car is indestructable and readily available if you do have issues.

For a shell I'd start out with a Speed6, that's the best all-rounder. LTC-R is fast but aggressive, and may scrub too much speed in 17.5.

Andrew S

iTrader: (3)

I consider front ecs shafts a must have!

Pigiolino

Marek used it last ETS in Gran Canaria (13.5 stock)

Pier

weekendracer_uk

Order placed for the T4'14 placed at my local friendly model shop , hopefully pick it up early next week and get building ready for testing. Been a long time 17.5 blinky racer but feel like a fresh challenge so will be stepping up to 13.5 open speedo this year. Will be fun after not driving an RC car for over 8 months.

chasingthepack

i dont ,i think there too weak and break too easy,i just run the std driveshafts as they last longer

millbank

I've had mine in the car since October and had some pretty big impacts. Big enough to break the chassis but the ecs's are still going strong.

rcmax2

We have been using the same set of frount ecs for over 6 mounths and replaced the 2 mm pins once and we clean and use hudy grease in them .

Andrew S

iTrader: (3)

Never broken mine.
I noticed the smoother and better steering from std.

Andrew S

iTrader: (3)

Never broken mine.
I noticed the smoother and better steering from std.