OVA

iTrader: (86)

Put it this way. The sway bar ,all it does it to keep the chassis flat around the corner..that's it
Try changing the inner links up or lay down the rear shock more and reduce the front droop

mikel33

iTrader: (2)

Yes, a thicker sway bar reduces chassis roll more than a thinner sway bar.

daleburr

Increase the droop all round (5f 4r). This will give more steering on entry and more traction on exit.

Increase the rear toe to 3deg which will just give a load more grip.

And use Xray 2.7 springs, these are better when the grip is low. The RSD springs work well when the grip is good and you're after a bit more corner speed or improved bump handling.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

@metalnut: Are you talking about your Scale Spec car?

-Mike

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Yep! And the huge difference in grip between Fasttrax and Galaxy. The car that took 1st at Fasttrax had basically no steering into corner or corner exit grip at Galaxy. I was going to try some setup changes but we got rained out, which is why I asked the question here instead.

Skiddins

I'm sort of with Dale on the changes, except;
Try the kit 2.5 springs all round.
Remove layshaft (top deck) screws for more flex.
3deg rear toe.
Rear shocks in 3rd hole out.
1mm on rear inner link (1mm on front inner as well if balance is ok)
If you are going to try thinner front roll bars I would also go thinner at the rear, ie 1.3F 1.1R

But, not matter what you try, come back and let us know what worked and what didn't

Anytime72

What are the part numbers for the ISS bushings that change the toe in? Where can I find them in the US

PROMODVETTE

iTrader: (70)

You mean these? http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...-Bushing-Set-2

patorz31

What does everyone use to clean the diff out when changing oils? I don't want to use something that eats the plastic or makes it brittle.

locked

iTrader: (1)

you can use non-chlorinated brake cleaner, but remove all of the o-rings first and make sure it's fully dry before putting the o-rings back in. Brake cleaner tends to make rubber swell up horribly

I'd probably just wipe it out with a microfibre cloth and refill, as long as it wasn't really dirty and I wasn't changing to a massively different CST oil.

Bishop

iTrader: (5)

Saw a good tech tip just last week about that, just buy some 100cst or even thinner shock oil, rinse the diff out with thin oil, east to drain, thins out thick previous oils to they come out easier etc.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I keep the various shock oils that usually come with kits for that exact purpose. I use them to flush out and clean out old oil from shocks and diffs. No reason to waste the good stuff

Anytime72

Yes, thank You!!!

homerthefourth

iTrader: (5)

This is a great thread and one that I've found a ton of useful information on. However I can't seem to find any on a recent issue I came across.

Just getting back into RC and really starting to keep up with the fast guys, I still am learning how to tune.

For the most part I have the basic Xray carpet setup. Changed the rear to 2 degrees of camber and that's it. This has always worked well. However recently the rear end has been loose.

As best as I can explain it, the car looks like a sea shell. Sweepers are fine, large corners are fine as well. However it seems the more your steer the exponentially loose the rear end becomes and eventually will gives out.

Most corners though the car turns in, rear end slides 6 inches at the apex and hooks up and off you go. I haven't had this issue before. First I thought I was entering the corner too fast but I think it's more of a setup issue.

I will also note that the higher speed sections the car handles fine. But the lower speed corners the rear end spins out or feels loose. Can't say I've encountered this before.

Searching this thread has resulted in how to fix a mid corner push but no mid corner over steer.

First on my list to try was an Ackerman adjustment.

You fella's have any other thoughts?

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

Definitely a +1 to the microfiber towel.For some reason it absorbs the silicone instead of just pushing it around like a cotton towel. Limonene-D, or sonic bearing cleaner, or any generic orange powered citrus cleaner breaks the silicone down really well. It works much better than motor spray, and doesn't evaporate nearly as fast. I take the rubber bits out and use a tooth brush to work in the Limonene-D and then spray it out with motor spray. Its cheaper and works better and smells better. The diff will look dry as a bone without the white stuff when you're done.