Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Speed Passion brand new Spec Racing LeMans car - The LM1 >

Speed Passion brand new Spec Racing LeMans car - The LM1

Like Tree32Likes

Speed Passion brand new Spec Racing LeMans car - The LM1

Old 02-25-2014, 12:38 PM
  #766  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
 
nrtv20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 962
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Do you need to add spacers to your steering rack? Do you have extra spacers under the arms?
nrtv20 is offline  
Old 02-25-2014, 03:24 PM
  #767  
Tech Regular
 
Norman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Brevard, NC
Posts: 289
Default

Originally Posted by dcs155 View Post
What was the name of the decal place in Hong Kong?
Hi. The name of the hobby shop is R2 Hobbies HK. Look under Decals and find
WRT Audi R8 Drift Car decals. I thingk they are 11.88 but you will have to wait
about ten days. I will post a photo soon for you. Regards
Norman
On the Top of the page in the search box under accessories for cars look for decals and find the ones for WRT Drift Speedhunters decal set. Attached
photo. Hope this helps. Regards
Norman
Attached Thumbnails Speed Passion brand new Spec Racing LeMans car - The LM1-r2-hobbies-decals-wrt-audi-drift-car.jpg  
Norman2 is offline  
Old 02-25-2014, 11:38 PM
  #768  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 124
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Norman2 View Post
Hi. The name of the hobby shop is R2 Hobbies HK. Look under Decals and find
WRT Audi R8 Drift Car decals. I thingk they are 11.88 but you will have to wait
about ten days. I will post a photo soon for you. Regards
Norman
On the Top of the page in the search box under accessories for cars look for decals and find the ones for WRT Drift Speedhunters decal set. Attached
photo. Hope this helps. Regards
Norman
I've been looking at some of these stickers and kept wondering about the quality. How do they compare with the Tamiya stickers?
salvine is offline  
Old 02-26-2014, 05:23 AM
  #769  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Winthrop harbor
Posts: 2,296
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Rich Valente View Post
Sorry if it has been covered earlier...I am having problems with the steering linkage 'hanging up/getting stuck' when turning. It is getting caught on turnbuckles (see enclosed pic in the red circle area).

Is there a fix or did I mess up something during assembly?

Thanks,

-Rich
You will have to add the same amount of additional shims under the steering posts that were added to the arm mounts.

I added 2mm of shims to compensate for the additional shims I put under the arms.
ercwhtsd is offline  
Old 02-26-2014, 05:48 AM
  #770  
Tech Regular
 
Norman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Brevard, NC
Posts: 289
Default

Originally Posted by salvine View Post
I've been looking at some of these stickers and kept wondering about the quality. How do they compare with the Tamiya stickers?
Hi, These decals are just as good as Tamiya's. Regards
Norman2
Norman2 is offline  
Old 02-27-2014, 05:06 AM
  #771  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
celt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: /dev/null
Posts: 2,560
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Rich Valente View Post
Sorry if it has been covered earlier...I am having problems with the steering linkage 'hanging up/getting stuck' when turning. It is getting caught on turnbuckles (see enclosed pic in the red circle area).

Is there a fix or did I mess up something during assembly?

Thanks,

-Rich
A simple way to look at it;

Kit height calls for 4mm (2x2mm) shims between the ride height plate and the arm.

For every mm shim you add, simply add that shim also, to the bottom of the steering posts.

All you are doing is keeping the steering system in the same plane as it's default location.
celt is offline  
Old 03-05-2014, 09:19 PM
  #772  
Tech Regular
 
Cgolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 259
Default

Hey all just putting my car together and wondering if you all sand the center hole of the spur gear to allow the diff to work properly or does it wear in?

Thanks
Chris
Cgolf is offline  
Old 03-06-2014, 04:25 AM
  #773  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
celt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: /dev/null
Posts: 2,560
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cgolf View Post
Hey all just putting my car together and wondering if you all sand the center hole of the spur gear to allow the diff to work properly or does it wear in?

Thanks
Chris
Chris, correct...

Just take a pinch of with a reamer or similar.
celt is offline  
Old 03-06-2014, 07:05 AM
  #774  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
 
JLock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Dallas, TX
Posts: 4,520
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Does anyone here know how wide the front and rear foam tires are for this car?
JLock is offline  
Old 03-06-2014, 07:47 AM
  #775  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,909
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
Rears are 39.6mm wide, fronts are 30.5mm. Yes, that's narrower than the old pancars, but reflects the current trends in full-sized racing cars. CanAm and 70's F1 cars had huge rear tires!
Originally Posted by JLock View Post
Does anyone here know how wide the front and rear foam tires are for this car?
Here you go!
liljohn1064 is offline  
Old 03-06-2014, 08:45 PM
  #776  
Tech Regular
 
Cgolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 259
Default

Is the 10 degree castor block a good starting point as shown in the directions?

Also hit a sticking point with the kingpin pivot balls on the front lower arms. Even without the screws in the arms the pivot balls were not very free. How do you free these up. It binds up the steering.

In the directions they show 3 mm from back of arm to bottom of kingpin for spring load. Picture shows a lot of spring, while reality you see very little spring at 3mm, is this value right?

Cgolf

Last edited by Cgolf; 03-06-2014 at 10:25 PM.
Cgolf is offline  
Old 03-07-2014, 05:59 AM
  #777  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,909
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cgolf View Post
Is the 10 degree castor block a good starting point as shown in the directions?

Also hit a sticking point with the kingpin pivot balls on the front lower arms. Even without the screws in the arms the pivot balls were not very free. How do you free these up. It binds up the steering.

In the directions they show 3 mm from back of arm to bottom of kingpin for spring load. Picture shows a lot of spring, while reality you see very little spring at 3mm, is this value right?

Cgolf
Run the 5* caster block, all shims back.

Those lower pivot balls really are snug. With the ball in the lower arm, slip in the kingpin and press arm to the ball a couple times with a padded pliers. Rotate the ball and repeat a couple times to form the arm around the ball. Another trick is to put a mild abrasive in, like tooth paste and spin the ball in the arm with a hand drill, then rinse and oil with very light machine oil.

Spring preload: Ignore the instructions. Put the king pin in until the spring touches the lower perch and is not floating free. Adjust preload and front droop from there. 3mm is too tight. It should be more like 4mm to start. Droop should be in the .5 to 1mm range.
liljohn1064 is offline  
Old 03-07-2014, 02:38 PM
  #778  
Tech Regular
 
Cgolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 259
Default

Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Run the 5* caster block, all shims back.

Those lower pivot balls really are snug. With the ball in the lower arm, slip in the kingpin and press arm to the ball a couple times with a padded pliers. Rotate the ball and repeat a couple times to form the arm around the ball. Another trick is to put a mild abrasive in, like tooth paste and spin the ball in the arm with a hand drill, then rinse and oil with very light machine oil.

Spring preload: Ignore the instructions. Put the king pin in until the spring touches the lower perch and is not floating free. Adjust preload and front droop from there. 3mm is too tight. It should be more like 4mm to start. Droop should be in the .5 to 1mm range.
Turns out when I took it apart it is the steering pivot ball in the steering upright. Working it by hand loosened it a lot, it should work in with running, or so I hope. Thanks for the info

Last edited by Cgolf; 03-07-2014 at 04:20 PM.
Cgolf is offline  
Old 03-07-2014, 09:27 PM
  #779  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
wholeshot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 83
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default things have changed.

so after a recent trip to my local hobby store that advertized they had two carpet tracks .............. ( i took a 4 year hiatus from the hobby been doing this for almost 20 years now)

there i was sitting in a room with about 20 people at benches with all these blinged out aluminum and carbon fiber cambered out plastic wheeled cars.. that slide around at about 2mph .. and im sitting there thinking to my self like .. " so this is it .. this is cool now"..."wow none of these people know how to drive"


there is no scene .. where i live to my knowledge and i want one of these cars to race with in a class so bad
wholeshot is offline  
Old 03-07-2014, 09:29 PM
  #780  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
wholeshot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 83
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

one thing i wanted to ask about the lm1 is that the body .. are there certain parts held together by double sided tape or do you use a screw and bolt ?
wholeshot is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.