Speed Passion brand new Spec Racing LeMans car - The LM1
#466
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
I posted this in the LMP1 discussion but I wanted to ask it here since it best fit this segment:
What do you think of having LM1/LMPC serve as kind of an entry level class and have performance markers for racers in order to move to the more open LMP1 class. One Idea I threw out in the other thread was having the track champion (maybe top 3 or 5 in points) promoted to the full P1 class the next season. Ideas?
What do you think of having LM1/LMPC serve as kind of an entry level class and have performance markers for racers in order to move to the more open LMP1 class. One Idea I threw out in the other thread was having the track champion (maybe top 3 or 5 in points) promoted to the full P1 class the next season. Ideas?
#467
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
one more video of my LM-1. Once again low grip but drivable.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfpRpkcieww
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfpRpkcieww
#473
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I'm thinking, as I cut out my first LMA body, that if I leave the forward section of the tail long, I can cut a notch out of top and turn it into a tab once the pieces are joined, then cut a slot in the back of the cockpit where the tail would normally touch and slip in the tab before sticking it down to the main body. It closes up the gap in the standard fitting and gives the tail an additional anchor to the body.
Good idea/Bad idea?
Good idea/Bad idea?
#475
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Aug 2001
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I'm thinking, as I cut out my first LMA body, that if I leave the forward section of the tail long, I can cut a notch out of top and turn it into a tab once the pieces are joined, then cut a slot in the back of the cockpit where the tail would normally touch and slip in the tab before sticking it down to the main body. It closes up the gap in the standard fitting and gives the tail an additional anchor to the body.
Good idea/Bad idea?
Good idea/Bad idea?
#476
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I always think that if you have the skill you should advance and at least be competing with drivers at or above your skill level if you want to improve. I don't have an issue with this as our local race director sorts by talent for the first heat, then resorts on laps for the second and third. If we have 30 guys show up wanting to run this class, then maybe a second class is in order. Nationally, it would depend on how many cars register for a large event. I would not mind running this kit as a spec class until the backing and interest are in place.
#478
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
I always think that if you have the skill you should advance and at least be competing with drivers at or above your skill level if you want to improve. I don't have an issue with this as our local race director sorts by talent for the first heat, then resorts on laps for the second and third. If we have 30 guys show up wanting to run this class, then maybe a second class is in order. Nationally, it would depend on how many cars register for a large event. I would not mind running this kit as a spec class until the backing and interest are in place.
I agree wholeheartedly. I will be saving my money and try to get one for this summer and get it shown at the outdoor track near my parents' house this summer, but I really think building the LM1/LMPC class is important at this critical juncture
#479
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
For giggles I put the carbon battery brace on with the spring perches in the wide position and moved just the pod side of the links to the wide setting. Then I put a 1 mm shim under the front link ball in the inner hole with a longer screw. Now I have angled links and still no binding, rubbing or pinching between the pod and the main chassis and no drilling. I've also added an extra 2 mm of spacers to the front plate and there seems to be enough thread to hold it, but a 2 mm longer screw should go in there regardless. Then I added 3 mm under each post with longer screws for the steering rack and went to the 2 mm rear height adjusters. The link ends were making a little contact with the lower A arm with the stock setting, now the steering is free for the full range of motion with the extra 1 mm. I'm at just over 4 mm in front and a tick over 4.5 in the rear for ride height. The center line of the motor is now under the center of the rear axle. All else is box stock.