Speed Passion brand new Spec Racing LeMans car - The LM1
#379

Toyota TS030 and Lola B60/12. These are the only cars that run the Le Mans
class coupes. Regards
Norman
#384

many restrictions on the proposed class such as spur and pinions, motor and ESC brand and chassis. This is what happened to F1 and it is not as popular
any more. I am going to run mine as fast as I can make it and still drive competitively. Regards
Norman
PS. I am also in favor of paint jobs like real racing cars and no Flames,tribal
designs and all the others that TC class cars have.
#387

Kevin and I both ran 21.5 configured cars tonight. We do have 3 of these running here at The Track as well as a F104 conversion and a WGT conversion in Urbana and an HPI F10 conversion running full modified.
There are also a few running in Oshkosh at this point and I would really like to hear from them as well as to what they have experienced.
Here are my observations to this point, I must point out, THESE are only my experiences and opinions during, after and while running/racing. I will run the LM Class however, 17.5 or 21.5, but I will also run a motor that makes sense to me and the conditions.
This is what I have seen and experienced with 17.5:
Extreme plastic stretching and loosening. Most notably, at the upper shock mount from the extreme pressure. Broken left side pod from excessive torque (different driver). Damaged spur gears from motor shift from torque and impacts at speed. Destroyed front bumper (cool impact :-) ). Foam separation and excessive side wall wear from rear rim due to excessive side loads. Under the right conditions, you can actually break/spin the tires under hard acceleration.
In running the 21.5's we have found what he and I both think is a happy compromise.
SP 72t spur, the 64p is really prone to stripping from pod tweak/twist
4mm ride height
1250g minimum
Now, it takes some work in the front end to get the 4mm. I had to add another 2mm of spacers under the front arms and raise the steering post 2mm as well. I used Associated 12R5 front bulkhead shims #4617 to do this, especially under the arm mount insert. Kevin had trued his front tires down to 63.2mm so had less shimming. Mine were at 64.2 in the front. My rears are down to 66.8 after about 30 runs with no truing. They are also starting to show signs of coning.
The car is still fast enough to be fun and has been much easier to drive with little chance of traction rolling. It is also a lap quicker from what I had run on Sunday running with the USGT's. It will still roll over mind you, just not as easy as at RH of 5mm.
Instead of a minimum REAR tire diameter, limiting the rear axle bearing carrier to the maximum of -1mm from kit 0. This should keep ride height around 4mm when the rear tire hits 63mm. I think by the time the tire hits this size, on carpet anyway, it may no longer be in good shape. This may also greatly discourage slamming the body way down and chopping the front splitter to near nothing.
Just a few thoughts.
#388
#389

It sounds like you've been running this chassis harder than we have, our tracks are just smaller and with less grip in some cases. However, we have come to the same conclusion for different reasons. We've noticed very, very liitle tire wear, haven't slammed the body down or bothered to cut the tires. We've tried to run them box stock, just as they are. None of us have had any breakage yet other than damaged ego's with some sizable dents in the beautiful body shell. All fixed though, nothing permanent.
It doesn't take but a moment to see that with a 17.5, it's fast, really fast, like rocket ship fast. I don't have the ability to race with anyone at that speed, with any confidence. Make no mistake, it's a hoot to wheel that thing around looking like a blur attached to a string. But I'm looking to increase the quality of racing.
We had a practice night last night and have decided to give 21.5 a try, next time out. It makes all the sense in the world for conditions anywhere around here. Eric's concens and mine simply fall away with a little slower speeds I think. Again, larger carpet or asphalt tracks with more open layouts? 17.5 might make more sense.
Many of those around here have said this is the coolest thing they've seen in RC for a long time - and it couldn't be more affordable. With a 21.5 and foam tires, most anyone with a functioning brain stem can pilot this chassis with a ton of confidence. We need to get people racing with an affordable, realistic, easily tunable, easy for mere mortals to drive, class.
Or...on-road will go away.
#390

Eric,
It sounds like you've been running this chassis harder than we have, our tracks are just smaller and with less grip in some cases. However, we have come to the same conclusion for different reasons. We've noticed very, very liitle tire wear, haven't slammed the body down or bothered to cut the tires. We've tried to run them box stock, just as they are. None of us have had any breakage yet other than damaged ego's with some sizable dents in the beautiful body shell. All fixed though, nothing permanent.
It doesn't take but a moment to see that with a 17.5, it's fast, really fast, like rocket ship fast. I don't have the ability to race with anyone at that speed, with any confidence. Make no mistake, it's a hoot to wheel that thing around looking like a blur attached to a string. But I'm looking to increase the quality of racing.
We had a practice night last night and have decided to give 21.5 a try, next time out. It makes all the sense in the world for conditions anywhere around here. Eric's concens and mine simply fall away with a little slower speeds I think. Again, larger carpet or asphalt tracks with more open layouts? 17.5 might make more sense.
Many of those around here have said this is the coolest thing they've seen in RC for a long time - and it couldn't be more affordable. With a 21.5 and foam tires, most anyone with a functioning brain stem can pilot this chassis with a ton of confidence. We need to get people racing with an affordable, realistic, easily tunable, easy for mere mortals to drive, class.
Or...on-road will go away.
It sounds like you've been running this chassis harder than we have, our tracks are just smaller and with less grip in some cases. However, we have come to the same conclusion for different reasons. We've noticed very, very liitle tire wear, haven't slammed the body down or bothered to cut the tires. We've tried to run them box stock, just as they are. None of us have had any breakage yet other than damaged ego's with some sizable dents in the beautiful body shell. All fixed though, nothing permanent.
It doesn't take but a moment to see that with a 17.5, it's fast, really fast, like rocket ship fast. I don't have the ability to race with anyone at that speed, with any confidence. Make no mistake, it's a hoot to wheel that thing around looking like a blur attached to a string. But I'm looking to increase the quality of racing.
We had a practice night last night and have decided to give 21.5 a try, next time out. It makes all the sense in the world for conditions anywhere around here. Eric's concens and mine simply fall away with a little slower speeds I think. Again, larger carpet or asphalt tracks with more open layouts? 17.5 might make more sense.
Many of those around here have said this is the coolest thing they've seen in RC for a long time - and it couldn't be more affordable. With a 21.5 and foam tires, most anyone with a functioning brain stem can pilot this chassis with a ton of confidence. We need to get people racing with an affordable, realistic, easily tunable, easy for mere mortals to drive, class.
Or...on-road will go away.
With the exception of a bent rear axle, much like the Bolink chassis was susceptible, to it has taken the abuse like a Timex and kept on running.
This is a VERY forgiving chassis platform, now, if maybe it could be offered as a possible Tx ready or even an RTR with 21.5...