OscarF1

Do you know the part numbers?

Dan

iTrader: (75)

http://shop.speedpowerrc.com/front-a...on-reinforced/

This is where I bought mines.

OscarF1

Thanks pall !

aackjw

iTrader: (9)

guess its a general question to anyone who owns the kit and build it himself.
How was the building quality? any particular MOD needed to make it work, not to make it better?
I'm asking because I had a disaster with VBC F1 kit. I had total 7 item missing and waited 2 weeks to get the parts pausing the assembly. Then found out the screw for the front wing missing and currently waiting for the arrival with another pause....

the kit looks very interesting to me mechanically and wondering if I would regret thinking I should've go for well known brand instead of 'innovation'.
Thank you.

P/S Forgive me if I hurt anybody's feeling in any way when he/she is all excited about his/her new toy. That would be the last thing I would want to do.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

The kid build itself is straightforward but the quality is not as good (you get what you pay for). Technically you can just build it and get it ready to go as it is. But if you're nitpicky like me, see below:

First, you can forget about using the stock bellcranks. They're mounted too low and the whole system is a slopfest. Better to go direct steering.

The plastic pivot balls and the plastic nut retainer should be replaced with the aluminum units.

Stock shocks, you must be extremely careful to trim the pistons off the parts tree carefully, but its just easier to buy the machined pistons. I recommend going with the type 2 shocks anyways. The stock shocks are difficult to build consistently. They can be just as smooth as the type 2 shocks, but just a pain to deal with.

If using an aftermarket spur, you need to ream it out slightly to be able to fit the axle spur hub.

Other minor annoyances, the plastic ball ends are a bit soft and pop off more easily. Diff is not as good as a Tamiya diff, etc. Bearing holders for rear axle need to be sanded to fit properly.

evochick

iTrader: (5)

If you looking for a car to just build and drive this is probably not the kit for you..

it does require a little work to get it sorted, and is really just a base kit, no wings or wing mounts, body etc.

I did a write up a little while ago back in this post on each steps in the manual.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13780528-post187.html

I have since installed type 2 shocks which were an improvement, and polished the kingpins which also helped.

I do now have an IFS front end on the way with the longer servo horn, but I probably wont fit the IFS until after the next big event next month.

I should also add the car does appear to be very durable, Rob has had some monumental accidents with his and is yet to break any parts, just some random screws loosening on him.

Beth.

aackjw

iTrader: (9)

Thank you for the detailed comments. That helped a lot.

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

You'd be wise to avoid this car like a plague, this is the 2nd worst car I have ever built, owned & driven.

The build quality is shocking, honestly my 3 Racing F113 had better build quality than this car, and even with evochics settings the handling was non existent until some extensive changes to the car and settings.
Both types of shocks for it are rubbish, and a pain in the butt to build, you have to use some "green slime" on every seal to stop them profusely leaking With the "type 2" shocks, you can't build them like you would normally build bladder shocks, because they either have way too much rebound, or you end up with air inside of them when trying to get low rebound.

Here's a link to my first hand experience with the car http://www.rctech.net/forum/13773133-post174.html

The only thing that keeps it ahead of another F1 car I used to own, is the fact that it doesn't break every time you crash, the durability of this car is a surprising positive.

The only reason I'm persisting with this car is that I'm stuck with it for now until I can save up for something better.

p.s. if you were close enough I would gladly swap this car for your VBC

Rob.

evochick

iTrader: (5)

It should be noted not everyone has the same experience and expectations as Rob with the car.

I considered the build to be ok, and have had nothing but success with the car from the first time I put it on the track. So I think its a little bit hit and miss and how you approach it.

JayL

From the first run on, faster laps and total time than my VBC LightningF and Speedpassion sp-1 and Tamiya F104 v.2

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

Sorry to hear about your troubles with the VBC kit, missing parts can happen with any kit, thankfully its a rare occurrence.

My Street jam went together just like the manual says and didnt require and mods to put assembly. The plastic front knuckle pillow ball caps are verry soft and will strip easily. Please be aware the front wing screw and nut is not included in the kit.

Although no mods are technically required I would say there are a few upgrades and mods I would say are required from a performance and durability perspective. The direct steering setup is something I would consider a requirement, it provides more precise and consistent steering with increased durability. Only a longer horn servo saver is required. I would also suggest the v2 shocks they are much easier to build and do not require frequent rebuilds. The aluminum pillowball caps fit much better than the stock plastic ones and do not strip. All the plastic is soft and does not look like it will last as long as comparable parts from tamiya, VBC, or yokomo.

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

That's true Beth, but I'm not the only one to have the same negative experience, as you saw from a message from another forum user here.

Out of all the F1 cars I have owned/driven, it's the only one with un polished king pins, which you polished up a set for us both to address a handling issue.

It's great that you, JayL and others have got a great experience from the car, but for me it has been a lemon from the day I opened the box, and a source of constant frustration.
I get that it's a car you can't just expect to work "out of the box", but to work so badly it doesn't instill any sense of confidence in the car either.

Anyway, we'll see if the change to a stronger servo saver makes a positive difference or not.

Rob.

evochick

iTrader: (5)

needs a warning on the box,

"user experiences may vary"

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

It's there a chance that a different rear shock can be used? I would be interested to see how t would do with the Exotek IFS. Even in the US, it's almost 2/3 the cost of a Street Jam F1 car, but with the innovative rear suspension that the car has, it seems like an interesting idea.

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

You could probably get away with using a pr of regular 12th scale shocks with a bit of effort to get the length right but the v2 shocks available are cheap and work very well.

The exotek bolts on easy but I would not recommend investing in it. During my testing of the ifs on med to high bite carpet I never got it up the the pace or stability of a conventional front end, perhaps asphalt would be different. The damper tubes included are complete garbage with an unusable sloppy fit. The optional tubes may be better but a pr of 12th scale or street jam v2 shocks is a significant improvement and increases the spring range available. @ $130 for the ifs, ifs required upper arms and shocks or upgrade tubes to fix the ifs I really wanted it to be better than than the other options, unfortunately its not.