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Old 09-16-2001, 07:23 AM   #91
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What colors?

Did you spray a VERY fine... if not clear coat first so it would have something to start the bond?

How many coats did you spray?

Did you back it?
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Old 09-21-2001, 07:09 PM   #92
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I did use a very fine first coat of each color, applied about 3 coats per color, backed it twice with pactra silver.
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Old 09-22-2001, 04:27 PM   #93
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I use a Badger 150 and Faskolor paints.
Usually I back the water soluble color with some white or silver Tamiya paint.

It does not scratch like the Parma paint or any other water soluble paint.

The compressor is a very small (noisy) one that I used for detailed illustration work (a former life eh eh).

The results have been very rewarding sinde the first try.


This one was very easy to do but the race ability of this body is close to none. Just a display model, now

Based on Tosolini car. However not a very good body to race. Just nice...


A copy of Marui car, but nice anyway



The trimming on this car drove me mad...

Last edited by antoniop; 09-22-2001 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 09-22-2001, 05:31 PM   #94
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Those are very nice antinop, I wish I was that good!
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Old 09-22-2001, 07:07 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally posted by Speedo
Well, it scratches all the way through, so I'm guessing that's not good! I'll try putting another coat of backing on.
Speedo?
Are you using a hair dryer to help set the paint before you do another coat?
If not try it, I have never scratched one of my painted bodies after doing it this way.
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Old 09-22-2001, 10:50 PM   #96
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yup, I used a hair dryer too...It's not that bad now, seems to have dried out a bit more over the past few days...

So, what do you guys think for a first airbrushing attempt? The quality isn't great, the camera is screwed up, but the sides and front are carbon fibre.

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Old 09-23-2001, 10:39 AM   #97
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Here is a better one

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Old 09-26-2001, 07:16 PM   #98
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Well, I figured out what to use to back the bodies. Urithane (sp?) Not poli-urithane, but urithane. I haven't tried it yet, but it was recomended to me by a really good painter at our track. I saw one of his bodies he backed with it, and it looks good, it dried clear, hard and flexible, and water-proofs the paint.

Josh
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Old 09-29-2001, 08:47 PM   #99
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what if i only have a single action airbrush? will i be able to do those flame thingies?
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Old 09-29-2001, 10:46 PM   #100
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You should be able to do flames with a single action airbrush...Just draw up some flames and mask it out...Or buy some pre-cut ones from the likes of parma.

I was recomended a great thing to use in place of masking tape, draw liner/wall backing. I found a nice big roll of clear stuff at bi-mart for about 3 bucks. It has much cleaner edges than masking tape, and you get lots! Plus, it's clear!

Josh
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Old 10-08-2001, 11:45 PM   #101
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Default Re: Carbon Fibre look

Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto
I've found the particular matting used to emulate the carbon fibre look, but what colors do I use (black, silver) ?
Hello, I'm looking for a tip or article on how to make the carbon fibre look on our body shells? Something like the HKS Altezza which comes with the TA04R? The closest to a link/tip on the web I could find was this:

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homep...aliti/TB01.htm
http://www.interlog.com/~khartlen/tips/cf.htm

Thanks!

Regards,
Alvin

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Old 10-09-2001, 01:08 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally posted by Speedo
Well, it scratches all the way through, so I'm guessing that's not good! I'll try putting another coat of backing on.
I would suggest that you back the Parma with Pactra's solvent based silver or white (spray can stuff). The scratching isn't the only thing you'll notice. If you wash the body with water and let the water sit too long some of the parma paints especially the metallics will soften.

I would let the parma dry at least overnight before backing with the Pactra.


You guys might want to look into Createx Autoair water based paints also. Very similar if not the same as Parma but comes in bigger bottles, cheaper more colors. Look for it in your local art supply stores. Make sure its Autoair for non-porous surfaces used to paint skis, snowboards, helmets etc..


**********************

For the person who thins the Parma with denatured alcohol, did you do this on metallic paints? If you did, did the flakes clump up? I found the alcohol was bad for metallics.
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Old 10-09-2001, 01:11 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally posted by Garapata
what if i only have a single action airbrush? will i be able to do those flame thingies?

Yes with practice you can do anything.
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Old 10-09-2001, 02:51 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sydewynder
For the person who thins the Parma with denatured alcohol, did you do this on metallic paints? If you did, did the flakes clump up? I found the alcohol was bad for metallics.
I've been thinning the Parma Faskolor with denatured alcohol, but I haven't used any metallics so I don't know what the result would be.

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Old 10-09-2001, 03:14 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally posted by Trips


I've been thinning the Parma Faskolor with denatured alcohol, but I haven't used any metallics so I don't know what the result would be.

Trips
Ok can you keep us updated. I went back to thinning with water.
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