3LikesVBC Lightning 12
02-02-2014, 09:06 AM
#391
Tech Adept
iTrader: (12)
tonight went much better. qualified 7th overall and finished there. i changed batteries for the bump to the amain "5car mains" but all the speed i had to win the B was gone in the a.
I set the car up with max's front end and tried a few different things with the rear. ran crc magenta/green combo all night with 3k in the tubes, 50wt in the middle on 3 holes. this seems to work very well for magenta/green but i tried black/greylow and the car was on ice.. soooo pushy. I think the stock springs might be a touch too stiff in the front for that tire combination, which i ran all the time with my associated. ill be picking up a full set of front and rear crc springs next race day, and trying to get the car to work with black/greylow again as its pretty norm for our track on a club race.
the setup i ran tonight should work very well for the mod car though on our carpet. the car had TONS of traction, pretty much on rails all night but this might have cost me some time in corners. i tried putting stiffer lube in the tubes but made the rear end washout unexpectedly. stayed with 3k all night.
i also tried magenta greylow but that was way way too much front end bite. maybe softening the rear more would have helped.
for my driving style the mod tires worked well, but maybe for stock ill need to adjust my driving style. which is difficult.
next week off. hopefully the following week i can sort the car out on the standard stock tires and figure out rollout/timing for my hobbywing 1s and reedy mach2 13.5. havent had a lot of tracktime on carpet this year and havent really figure out what that motor likes yet. last year was 17.5 boost and i had that pretty well figured out.. i went from top 3 to struggling to make the top 8..
im also going to try running transverse. my best results in stock was with my onpoint 5.1 conversion which was transverse. when i went to the 5.2 inline i had some trouble getting the same corner speed. which sounds strange but meh. all about tracktime i guess. the transverse seemed to corner better on 135s and similar where the inline was better in chicanes obviously. usually we have more 135 in series but not always a chicane.
meh. I still noob.
I set the car up with max's front end and tried a few different things with the rear. ran crc magenta/green combo all night with 3k in the tubes, 50wt in the middle on 3 holes. this seems to work very well for magenta/green but i tried black/greylow and the car was on ice.. soooo pushy. I think the stock springs might be a touch too stiff in the front for that tire combination, which i ran all the time with my associated. ill be picking up a full set of front and rear crc springs next race day, and trying to get the car to work with black/greylow again as its pretty norm for our track on a club race.
the setup i ran tonight should work very well for the mod car though on our carpet. the car had TONS of traction, pretty much on rails all night but this might have cost me some time in corners. i tried putting stiffer lube in the tubes but made the rear end washout unexpectedly. stayed with 3k all night.
i also tried magenta greylow but that was way way too much front end bite. maybe softening the rear more would have helped.
for my driving style the mod tires worked well, but maybe for stock ill need to adjust my driving style. which is difficult.
next week off. hopefully the following week i can sort the car out on the standard stock tires and figure out rollout/timing for my hobbywing 1s and reedy mach2 13.5. havent had a lot of tracktime on carpet this year and havent really figure out what that motor likes yet. last year was 17.5 boost and i had that pretty well figured out.. i went from top 3 to struggling to make the top 8..
im also going to try running transverse. my best results in stock was with my onpoint 5.1 conversion which was transverse. when i went to the 5.2 inline i had some trouble getting the same corner speed. which sounds strange but meh. all about tracktime i guess. the transverse seemed to corner better on 135s and similar where the inline was better in chicanes obviously. usually we have more 135 in series but not always a chicane.
meh. I still noob.
02-10-2014, 11:32 AM
#392
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
I'm running gravity rc foams on my Lightning12 but I can't get it under the legal width limit of 172mm for our rules. It's sitting at 173.3mm. I've got no spacers in the rear axle either. Had no problems with my old x12. Am I left with the only option of cutting down the rims?
02-10-2014, 04:05 PM
#394
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
Here are some words I wrote about it, if you are interested:
http://chrishillier.com/wp/?p=87
But more importantly, here is the setup sheet:
http://chrishillier.com/wp/wp-conten...eb_09_2014.pdf
I'm running gravity rc foams on my Lightning12 but I can't get it under the legal width limit of 172mm for our rules. It's sitting at 173.3mm. I've got no spacers in the rear axle either. Had no problems with my old x12. Am I left with the only option of cutting down the rims?
02-10-2014, 04:21 PM
#396
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
Disclaimer, I haven't tried it in stock.
With that said, I can't imagine why it wouldn't work reasonably well (flashback to Chicky running nearly the exact same setup in mod and stock at nats in 2012.) I would recommend trying it out with your normal black/orange tire combo and then seeing whether you start to lose the rear towards the end of the run. If so, think about either leveling out the shock or going softer tube lube/side spring. I have only ran this setup with mod tires (blues/Ulti XM) so I just don't know how it will treat stock tires. Should be fine, but just try it and see. Either way, the setup is really straightforward (nothing ridiculous), the biggest thing is just going to transverse instead of inline. Hope this helps, and I will be sure to look over your car next weekend if you come up for racing.
02-10-2014, 04:38 PM
#397
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
thanks. I will take a look at my car and see what I need to do to change it. I tried transverse when I first got the car at the pueblo track, and didn't like it. But that track was a lot tighter and slower. Now I have 2 cars with one dedicated to pueblo and one to 5280.
I won't make it next week, but I am hoping to come up on a saturday, soon, so that I can work on getting my 1/12 and touring car set up. A well tuned car is easier to drive than one that is not.
I won't make it next week, but I am hoping to come up on a saturday, soon, so that I can work on getting my 1/12 and touring car set up. A well tuned car is easier to drive than one that is not.
02-11-2014, 06:15 AM
#399
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
ok. It is early in the morning and my brain is not functioning at 100% yet.
Chris, on your setup sheet you are using the outside rear side spring position. If I remember correctly, you have to raise the rear cross bar (that the side links and body mount are on) 2mm. Is this correct?
Do you also have to raise the rear graphite shock mount plate 2mm?
Also, what is the best way to mount the battery in the car? It doesn't appear that the slots in the chassis go wide enough for the transverse battery and if you tape it in by running the tape to the outside edge of the chassis, won't it slide a little?
Do you have a part number for the Associated Olive side spring? I couldn't find Olive, but I am using ASC4642 Team Associated Side Spring, Green, 4.38 lbs. Is this the same thing?
thanks,
tim
Chris, on your setup sheet you are using the outside rear side spring position. If I remember correctly, you have to raise the rear cross bar (that the side links and body mount are on) 2mm. Is this correct?
Do you also have to raise the rear graphite shock mount plate 2mm?
Also, what is the best way to mount the battery in the car? It doesn't appear that the slots in the chassis go wide enough for the transverse battery and if you tape it in by running the tape to the outside edge of the chassis, won't it slide a little?
Do you have a part number for the Associated Olive side spring? I couldn't find Olive, but I am using ASC4642 Team Associated Side Spring, Green, 4.38 lbs. Is this the same thing?
thanks,
tim
02-11-2014, 06:25 AM
#400
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
ok. It is early in the morning and my brain is not functioning at 100% yet.
Chris, on your setup sheet you are using the outside rear side spring position. If I remember correctly, you have to raise the rear cross bar (that the side links and body mount are on) 2mm. Is this correct?
Do you also have to raise the rear graphite shock mount plate 2mm?
Also, what is the best way to mount the battery in the car? It doesn't appear that the slots in the chassis go wide enough for the transverse battery and if you tape it in by running the tape to the outside edge of the chassis, won't it slide a little?
thanks,
tim
Chris, on your setup sheet you are using the outside rear side spring position. If I remember correctly, you have to raise the rear cross bar (that the side links and body mount are on) 2mm. Is this correct?
Do you also have to raise the rear graphite shock mount plate 2mm?
Also, what is the best way to mount the battery in the car? It doesn't appear that the slots in the chassis go wide enough for the transverse battery and if you tape it in by running the tape to the outside edge of the chassis, won't it slide a little?
thanks,
tim
I raised the rear crossbrace by 2.5 mm actually, which just gives enough clearance for AE side springs to 'just' touch the sidelinks if the tweak screws are backed out all of the way. I didn't raise the upper pod/shock plate, though, which means that yes, my side tubes are not as inclined as the stock setup. Still plenty of clearance though.
I taped the battery around the outside edge of the chassis. It is honestly the only way to do it, and if done correctly the battery doesn't move around at all. You just have to be sure to keep the tape taut as you apply it and all should be good.
Whatever you do, don't use double-sided tape under the battery. First off, it is a pain at big races when you charge in a lipo sack. Second, the battery is the most critical part of the car in relation to CG. Even lowering/raising the battery by half of a mm makes a huge difference for CG, so when traction is high and you want the car to stay level, you really need to keep that battery slammed to the chassis. On a related sidenote, if anybody out there can machine a battery pocket for me on a stock VBC chassis, PM me...
Hope this helps.
02-13-2014, 01:00 PM
#404
02-13-2014, 01:02 PM
#405
