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Old 10-01-2013, 04:50 PM   #31
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i have seen most in this price range.... i have to say the spec R s1...

if you are planning to keep it 150$... then yes

if you are planning on doing hopups/ upgrades... then any cars named above is out of the picture... which means better spending the extra to buy a xray, vbc, or schumacher.

not unless someone can tell me of a car that you can initially buy at $150... that has all available hopups to make it a 5-600 dollar car and will perform like a 600$ car.

Ta05 is about 200.... which gets my vote...since it has tons of hopups to make it a contender.
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:01 PM   #32
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Ta06 vs ta05?
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:21 PM   #33
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I dont undetstand the point in buying a cheap car and upgrading it to a non cheap one. the parts you will buy will be much more expensive if you buy them after the fact than if you just buy the kit as it is.
a few choice hop ups are one thing but making $150 into $600 is retarded. things will wear out in that time as well adding even more cost unless you plan to dump like $200 in upgrades permonth into the car.
ive already voted for spec R and ill stand behind this car in stock racing very strongly. i put about $50 in upgrades into mine including aluminum arm mounts for the front, swaybars, aluminum hex's and my spare parts. my S411 is a better car, more survivable, but if i keep off the boards, the spec r is as fast, at least in 17.5

id also pick up a sakura as the parts are quite accessible and cheap. tamiya is very well supported in most hobbyshop chains, but their hopups... meh. Id stick to a TC with a traditional layout. the cars are simple to work on and setup.

and once again, dont discount used. you can get quite a lot of very good cars starting around $150. not the latest generation, but take a step back to say, T3, tc6 mi4Cxl generation and you can probably get something very competitive.

unless your at the top of the tree though. any car is going to get you around the track just fine. if you are at the top, your probably not looking to spend $150 on a car heh.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:02 PM   #34
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I dont undetstand the point in buying a cheap car and upgrading it to a non cheap one. the parts you will buy will be much more expensive if you buy them after the fact than if you just buy the kit as it is.
a few choice hop ups are one thing but making $150 into $600 is retarded. things will wear out in that time as well adding even more cost unless you plan to dump like $200 in upgrades permonth into the car.
ive already voted for spec R and ill stand behind this car in stock racing very strongly. i put about $50 in upgrades into mine including aluminum arm mounts for the front, swaybars, aluminum hex's and my spare parts. my S411 is a better car, more survivable, but if i keep off the boards, the spec r is as fast, at least in 17.5

id also pick up a sakura as the parts are quite accessible and cheap. tamiya is very well supported in most hobbyshop chains, but their hopups... meh. Id stick to a TC with a traditional layout. the cars are simple to work on and setup.

and once again, dont discount used. you can get quite a lot of very good cars starting around $150. not the latest generation, but take a step back to say, T3, tc6 mi4Cxl generation and you can probably get something very competitive.

unless your at the top of the tree though. any car is going to get you around the track just fine. if you are at the top, your probably not looking to spend $150 on a car heh.
+1 Hopups have to have a point, they need to make the car faster or more reliable, yes you can get a TA05 or 06 and hop the crap out of it, but, in the end all you have is an expensive pile of crap TA05/6 that is no faster than the original.

With the Spec-R S1 if you upgrade the chassis and top deck to pro spec, you will go faster, for me it was close to a second a lap faster, but, a lot of that is track dependent and others might have less improvement. Things like the alloy centre pulley are great upgrades if you run on dirty tracks as it saves on cleaning and or stripped pulleys. Things like alloy bulkheads are not important as you never break one, same with the carbon towers, no difference there with the fiberglass ones.

Mostly it is about shopping smart, all the upgrades i did on my S1 were Alloy servo mount and fan mount, front diff as i do not like spool, and pro spec chassis and top deck and low friction belts. Then i went and bought a pro spec just to have all the bling version too.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:57 PM   #35
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hah. though i agree with you shrubber, you basically spent 75% of a prospec on your s1 lol.
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:46 PM   #36
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hah. though i agree with you shrubber, you basically spent 75% of a prospec on your s1 lol.
I know, and it is kind of sad really, when i bought the S1 it was to see if i really wanted to get into the racing side of on road rc in a more serious way, previously had only done some practice down at the track.

Within a couple of months of racing, I had improved a lot, and became much more consistent and had decided that i was enjoying racing and then put some money into the car to make it more drivable for my local track. And then bought the Pro Spec as well.

It is here that newbies seem to get hung up on things a lot. Just buy a car and go race it, forget whats best, or flavor of the month, just buy any old car that is within your price range and go and see if you like racing. After 3 months you will know if you like it, and want to stick at it, and within 6 months you will have gained enough skills and understanding to make informed decisions on cars that suit your driving.

Unless you have a St-Dev in the 0.5 second per lap range, it really does not matter what chassis you are running, you are spending more time being marshaled than you are running laps and have not gotten the most out of that car anyway.
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Old 10-02-2013, 01:02 AM   #37
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Oh trust me. I get it lol. I started with $600 all in on a all used tc5 with tools, charger radio ect in 2011. So far ive owned 5 different touring cars, replaced every peice of used electrics with new and baught into 4 other classes lol. Racing gets in the brain and all sense of budget is gone lol.

Im within .2-4 accurate on my laps unless i hit someone else. From s411te to s1 lol. No different.
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Old 10-02-2013, 01:26 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDaShrubber View Post
+1 Hopups have to have a point, they need to make the car faster or more reliable, yes you can get a TA05 or 06 and hop the crap out of it, but, in the end all you have is an expensive pile of crap TA05/6 that is no faster than the original.

With the Spec-R S1 if you upgrade the chassis and top deck to pro spec, you will go faster, for me it was close to a second a lap faster, but, a lot of that is track dependent and others might have less improvement. Things like the alloy centre pulley are great upgrades if you run on dirty tracks as it saves on cleaning and or stripped pulleys. Things like alloy bulkheads are not important as you never break one, same with the carbon towers, no difference there with the fiberglass ones.

Mostly it is about shopping smart, all the upgrades i did on my S1 were Alloy servo mount and fan mount, front diff as i do not like spool, and pro spec chassis and top deck and low friction belts. Then i went and bought a pro spec just to have all the bling version too.
I kind of disagree with your statement about the TA06. My only upgrades were alum rockers, toe blocks and RSector Chassis conversion and it can keep up with 417's T3's and other high end touring cars with 10.5 boosted class. Mind you it at a club level so driver skills vary but for the most part they are great drivers. Price wise agree. the conversion, other hop ups set and the chassis cost me around $450. All what I've broken so far with the 06 are the typical hubs and occasional arms. After some races, drivers would ask me what chassis I run and they were surprised when they found out it was a TA06.
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:15 PM   #39
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I definatly agree with shopping smart and I will save a bit more and just buy a better kit because it don't make alot of sense to buy 130$ budget car and drop 200$ you will just end up in the price range of a good kit. I picked up a XXXS G+ RTR (brushed) for 200$ and I have to say it handles & drives far, faaaaaaar better than my old tt01 and Sprint 2.
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:06 PM   #40
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What's a good servo?
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:25 PM   #41
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What's a good servo?
For a tc?
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:43 PM   #42
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Savox1251mg

maybe there is better out there... for twice as much money.
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:57 AM   #43
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Any tips on where to get a good painted shell for tc?
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Old 10-19-2013, 03:22 PM   #44
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Any tips on where to get a good painted shell for tc?
I suggest u learn yourself but eBay got some preprainted
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