Xray T3 Chassis Repair
09-04-2013, 04:19 PM
#1
Xray T3 Chassis Repair
Couldn't figure out where else this might fit, so here we go.
I inherited an Xray T3 and it appears that at some point a stripped screw was drilled out from the underside of the chassis. In the process of drilling out the head, the countersink in the CF was damaged and the hole is now a little deeper than it was originally.
Understanding that A) replacing the chassis plate is not an option and B) I'm not a good enough driver to notice a very minor tweak, how might I go about fixing this problem? I was thinking about using an epoxy to build the material back up and redrilling to get the countersink back where it belongs.
Any thoughts?
I inherited an Xray T3 and it appears that at some point a stripped screw was drilled out from the underside of the chassis. In the process of drilling out the head, the countersink in the CF was damaged and the hole is now a little deeper than it was originally.
Understanding that A) replacing the chassis plate is not an option and B) I'm not a good enough driver to notice a very minor tweak, how might I go about fixing this problem? I was thinking about using an epoxy to build the material back up and redrilling to get the countersink back where it belongs.
Any thoughts?
09-05-2013, 11:55 AM
#4
I would not use JB weld or CA glue, it could still crack under stress or fall apart when you start grinding it again.
I used to work in a PCB shop and we would repair laminates as well (prepreg/fiberglass). There were few times when our operators would drill the wrong size countersink (60 degree vs 90, etc.)
To repair, we used high temp kapton tape on bottom of the board (opposite of countersink, fill up the hole with high temp epoxy. Then let it cure in oven. (Use recommend cure temp settings for epoxy). Then it will harden up quite nice and be really durable. You can drill and countersink it after that. This is the strongest method we used so the hole/countersink will not deform later or break.
I used to work in a PCB shop and we would repair laminates as well (prepreg/fiberglass). There were few times when our operators would drill the wrong size countersink (60 degree vs 90, etc.)
To repair, we used high temp kapton tape on bottom of the board (opposite of countersink, fill up the hole with high temp epoxy. Then let it cure in oven. (Use recommend cure temp settings for epoxy). Then it will harden up quite nice and be really durable. You can drill and countersink it after that. This is the strongest method we used so the hole/countersink will not deform later or break.
09-05-2013, 07:54 PM
#7
Hey Valk. Yeah, the screw hole is punched up almost all the way through the chassis plate. A very generous guy has contacted me and offered to help me out with some replacement chassis parts. Looks like the best option. Thanks for the advice though.
09-06-2013, 09:19 PM
#9
Chassis fix
You'll need some "hotstuff" or any of those "fast" glues, preferably thin, some q-tips and some baking soda.
Take two q-tips and moisten them, use one and give it a light coat of super glue, and swirl it in the reamed hole. Take the other q-tip and roll it in the baking soda, then swirl it in the reamed hole. Let the glue/baking soda setup...it won't take long.
Repeat the process until you get a little smaller hole than what you want, use a dremel angled grinding stone to clean up the oversize and tapered countersunk hole.
This stuff will setup like concrete once it dries, I've done 1/12th chassis repairs like this forever.
Take two q-tips and moisten them, use one and give it a light coat of super glue, and swirl it in the reamed hole. Take the other q-tip and roll it in the baking soda, then swirl it in the reamed hole. Let the glue/baking soda setup...it won't take long.
Repeat the process until you get a little smaller hole than what you want, use a dremel angled grinding stone to clean up the oversize and tapered countersunk hole.
This stuff will setup like concrete once it dries, I've done 1/12th chassis repairs like this forever.
09-06-2013, 10:07 PM
#10
I thought CA set almost instantly when exposed to water. Weird. I've never actually had anyone describe the process before. People just referred to "the baking soda and glue" trick. I've tried my own methods, but it was never quite right. Thanks for the correction!
09-12-2013, 07:16 PM
#11
You'll need some "hotstuff" or any of those "fast" glues, preferably thin, some q-tips and some baking soda.
Take two q-tips and moisten them, use one and give it a light coat of super glue, and swirl it in the reamed hole. Take the other q-tip and roll it in the baking soda, then swirl it in the reamed hole. Let the glue/baking soda setup...it won't take long.
Repeat the process until you get a little smaller hole than what you want, use a dremel angled grinding stone to clean up the oversize and tapered countersunk hole.
This stuff will setup like concrete once it dries, I've done 1/12th chassis repairs like this forever.
Take two q-tips and moisten them, use one and give it a light coat of super glue, and swirl it in the reamed hole. Take the other q-tip and roll it in the baking soda, then swirl it in the reamed hole. Let the glue/baking soda setup...it won't take long.
Repeat the process until you get a little smaller hole than what you want, use a dremel angled grinding stone to clean up the oversize and tapered countersunk hole.
This stuff will setup like concrete once it dries, I've done 1/12th chassis repairs like this forever.
Nick K
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