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Old 09-07-2013, 08:37 PM   #16
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Just get the popular car at the track. If it is popular, there must be a reason.
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:16 PM   #17
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Is that the only way to be competitive?
Is carbon fiber the best and only way to go on that asphalt?
I would imagine the ta06 pro & TOP Photon aren't even in that same league if so.

Does anyone else have something to say on this?
These are the 2 main cars that are used at LH. Carbon Fiber is the way to go for both the rug and payment for TC 17.5, because the better cars are based on this.

Ken is the man on fire and has ran both the AE TC6 and Xray T3 and spanked all of us with them, but Ken's abilities are what made both cars work well for him.

Now for what is the best car, a good number are really good cars. The hobby shop supports the 2 above. If you are not concerned with parts at the hobby store, your options are a mile long. The Xray line is very durable, these cars can take it and keep going. Other lines are not so durable in a crash, but just as fast in the correct hands. For the motor, personally D3.5 is the only option in my humble opinion.
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:40 AM   #18
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Simple answer at LH

Xray T3, T4
AE TC6.1

Both are supported by the track side Hobby Store.
This...

And, with most people running these cars there are plenty of people that have good setups to share with and get help from. I'm not against other cars and think many of them are really nice but these two have parts support and tech support available in loads at LH.

My picks would be a T3 2012 or T4 but the TC6.1 is certainly capable too.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:48 AM   #19
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Just get the popular car at the track. If it is popular, there must be a reason.
This ^


I ended up getting a schumacher mi5 as lots of people in local area drive em and could help me with setup advice, glad i did, now I have a good knowledge of TC im confident enough in going up to a awesomatix a700l
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:17 PM   #20
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What is the best chassis material for asphalt then? Fiberglass, plastic, or carbon fiber. I know how to properly take care of carbon fiber because I have used it in the past and forgot to epoxy it .
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:55 PM   #21
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You have to try out different cars to find out what works for you. It gets pretty costly sometimes but when you find the car that suites your driving you will know it. Sometimes you can be the oddball at the track and not drive or use the same stuff everyone else uses.
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:38 PM   #22
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So most touring cars will be acceptable to race? It appears the associated and the xray are the way to go if I want help setting it up though.
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:54 PM   #23
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So most touring cars will be acceptable to race? It appears the associated and the xray are the way to go if I want help setting it up though.
You can race pretty much any chassis, most of them you can be competitive with. Just pick one that's easy to get parts for and sits in the right price range. Don't get caught up in brand vs brand arguments as everyone has a different experience.
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Old 09-08-2013, 02:40 PM   #24
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The Spec-R S1 is an inexpensive fiberglass chassis that is excellent for asphalt racing. Parts are not expensive and are available online from TQ Racing and other places. You can drive it like you stole it and not worry about scratching up a graphite chassis.
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Old 09-08-2013, 03:49 PM   #25
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You can race pretty much any chassis, most of them you can be competitive with. Just pick one that's easy to get parts for and sits in the right price range. Don't get caught up in brand vs brand arguments as everyone has a different experience.
THIS^^ The out of the box setups for all cars are going to be fine for you as a beginner. You will race for 6 months with that before you have developed enough skill as a driver to need setup changes to go faster.

You do not need to be a sheeple and run the same car as everyone else to get good setup advice. If you ask the right questions of your local fast guys and pros, you will get all the information you will need to tune the aspect of the car you wish to improve. Get them to watch the car while turning laps, get them to drive the car and feel what its doing, then have them explain to you the order of changes to try.
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:41 PM   #26
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So, if I get an inexpensive car, I will tune it and hop it up as I get better?
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:43 PM   #27
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Or are some cars bottlenecked in that there may be a performance/hop-up ceiling?
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Old 09-08-2013, 05:10 PM   #28
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So, if I get an inexpensive car, I will tune it and hop it up as I get better?
If you get something like the Spec-R S1 or 3 Racing Sakura XI sports, those cars will last you through 12 months to 2 years of learning curve, before the drivers potential equals the cars potential. And that is before you upgrade anything to make it go better.

After that time, if you are still loving on road, then go buy the latest version pro car, based on all the experience you now have, you will be able to make an informed choice based on your personal needs and driving style.

Ultimately, for the new driver, it does not matter what you buy, if you get something that is reasonable, you will get good service out of the car, and learn a lot, and, most chassis out there today, there is very little between them, most are based around a very similar design principle, and most have pretty wide setup windows, meaning, the out of the box setup will be about 95% of the cars potential.
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:15 AM   #29
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THIS^^ The out of the box setups for all cars are going to be fine for you as a beginner. You will race for 6 months with that before you have developed enough skill as a driver to need setup changes to go faster.

You do not need to be a sheeple and run the same car as everyone else to get good setup advice. If you ask the right questions of your local fast guys and pros, you will get all the information you will need to tune the aspect of the car you wish to improve. Get them to watch the car while turning laps, get them to drive the car and feel what its doing, then have them explain to you the order of changes to try.
+1 I started out with a ta06 pro when I tried onroad a year and some change ago. Just like you said, ask around and see what their opinion is about how the handles. I am now using a capricorn lab te01 and with previous knowledge from my tamiya, I was able to apply my own tweaks on how I want my car to drive. You can start out with a tc3 or tc4 and learn from that. Don't stress yourself or be intimidated. At the end of the day it's the driver that wins the race and not the car. Whatever kit you choose, practice practice practice.
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:37 AM   #30
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X-Ray T-4 . Durable as they get.I run an 09 X-Ray T-2,with the T-3 pulley's.I am happy as can be.As long as I am running up against club level racers, I have not seen the need to buy anything better,and I don't race much anymore either.I would start with the toughest best quality car you can buy,emphasis on toughness.Just about all the top of the line cars are good quality cars.The X-Rays are quality and tough.

On a side note. There is a young guy at the track we race on that runs that $100 Ofna TC car.He is in the top 3 every race.And he has a win under his belt.
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