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Old 06-16-2005, 09:42 PM   #1
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Default From the quick question department: 4 cell battery pack wiring....

The included picture shows how most 6 cell saddle packs are wired up and I assume most 4 cells as well with the bridge just being a piece or wire.

Is there any advantage to this method as I've never seen any packs wired up with the bridge being the plug (assuming not being hard wired that is)?

Just wondering because I've yet to start building my first saddle packs.
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Old 06-16-2005, 10:09 PM   #2
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If you have to split your pack (like pictured) you have to use a bridge wire to connect the cells.

If you don't hardwire, you still have to solder the plug wires on the end of the other cells. (Or else solder a battery bar for a tab to hard wire)

If you are running a chassis that you don't have to split the battery, there is no need for the bridge wire. (Battery on one side of the car...radio gear on the other to balance the weight)

I assume if you are splitting the cells, you are running 1/12th scale?
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Old 06-16-2005, 10:12 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
The included picture shows how most 6 cell saddle packs are wired up and I assume most 4 cells as well with the bridge just being a piece or wire.

Is there any advantage to this method as I've never seen any packs wired up with the bridge being the plug (assuming not being hard wired that is)?

Just wondering because I've yet to start building my first saddle packs.
Yes. You would wire a four cell saddle pack the same way as a six cell saddle pack although you do have a few options.

I would not place a plug in the jumper wire. If you are going to be using the pack in a 1/12th car, then make the jumper wire long enough to go over the center shock or just pop the shock loose when you want to change battery packs. That way you can keep the jumper wire short and low in the chassis. Makes for better body mounting.
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Old 06-16-2005, 10:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Yes. You would wire a four cell saddle pack the same way as a six cell saddle pack although you do have a few options.

I would not place a plug in the jumper wire. If you are going to be using the pack in a 1/12th car, then make the jumper wire long enough to go over the center shock or just pop the shock loose when you want to change battery packs. That way you can keep the jumper wire short and low in the chassis. Makes for better body mounting.
So it's not that my idea wouldn't work it's just done the other way because it's easier to get the stuff under the body? lol
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Old 06-17-2005, 10:09 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
So it's not that my idea wouldn't work it's just done the other way because it's easier to get the stuff under the body? lol
Absolutely you way will work it's just that if indeed this is a battery pack for a 1/12th scale car, you will find that the bodies are so contoured to fit every little bump in the chassis components, that it's difficult to get the body as low on the chassis as it needs to be. Especially if you are using anything larger than 16ga wire.
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