2LikesTamiya TRF418
06-09-2014, 12:30 AM
#1156
I've also asked him on Facebook. See what he says 
He has also promised setup sheets from Luxembourg. Be great for me, quite similar track to my current club.
He has also promised setup sheets from Luxembourg. Be great for me, quite similar track to my current club.
06-10-2014, 03:14 AM
#1159
Queries on spurs seem to come up every three pages or so in this thread, but I'm interested in the other end - straw poll - what pinions do you use? Anyone using 48 instead of 64pitch?
I've started with kawada super ex and super duralumin 64p and are having quite a bit of trouble with damage to the pinions - spurs are fine oddly!
The track I run on is outdoors and not the cleanest, also runs 1/5th scale, so the rubber debris left on the track is quite hard. Even my diff gear and pulleys pick up crap that I have to fish out with a sharp blade.
Painful. I'm actually thinking of scrapping/returning my 64p stuff and going to 48p for more durability. Probably better choice of ratios for 13.5t blinky anyway.
I've started with kawada super ex and super duralumin 64p and are having quite a bit of trouble with damage to the pinions - spurs are fine oddly!
The track I run on is outdoors and not the cleanest, also runs 1/5th scale, so the rubber debris left on the track is quite hard. Even my diff gear and pulleys pick up crap that I have to fish out with a sharp blade.
Painful. I'm actually thinking of scrapping/returning my 64p stuff and going to 48p for more durability. Probably better choice of ratios for 13.5t blinky anyway.
06-10-2014, 05:40 AM
#1160
Get a piece of scotch tape and stick it underneath to block all those chassis openings and trap some of the debris that makes it there. Change every run. More than that I don't think can be done.
06-10-2014, 08:39 PM
#1162
Don't have one sorry, and the page for petitrc has it's links stuffed right now. Diverts to Evo6.
You could try Jilles "base" 418 setup from his JG Racing Facebook page?
You could try Jilles "base" 418 setup from his JG Racing Facebook page?
06-10-2014, 08:48 PM
#1163
These work well.
Use spacers in lieu of the e-clip.
06-10-2014, 10:58 PM
#1165
I have also questioned him on the spacers via Facebook. Considering Jilles is the tech head in the team when it comes to setup, I expect he is allowing for the new hex ball. Ie: 2mm is 2+1mm if using old style.
06-11-2014, 09:01 AM
#1166
Also when measuring. Are u unhooking shocks and sway bars or just shocks.
Last edited by xrayaustin; 06-11-2014 at 09:16 AM.
06-11-2014, 11:16 AM
#1167
I know the question was directed towards someone else but I use to unhook everything to set downstop but eventually started setting the car up with every on. I even ditched the setup wheels and now use the tires I'm racing with to set ride height. After going about it this way I notice a difference in my car in a positive way.
06-11-2014, 04:47 PM
#1168
Makes sense to me. Set the car up as your going to run. Measuring everything unhooked other than toe and steering doesn't make sense to me. The tyres you use change in diameter between brands and wear, so ride height will alter (and camber also, but minor) which you need to compensate for. And then droop needs to be altered to suit!
If nothing else, I think ride height should definitely be set with the tyres you plan to run and droop should be set with everything connected (wheels off obviously!)
I'm pretty novice with TC and don't even have a great setup station. I use (very accurate) verniers, blocks and height gauges, a 4 sided (well eight technically) camber gauge and a bit of nouse. Setup wheels would be nice for more accurate camber, but the car runs true, has good traction and stability and I'm not noticing drastic wear on the tyres.
Even if I got, say, set up wheels, I would still check camber with the tyres on afterwards.
I also have more important things to work on other than chasing set up!
If nothing else, I think ride height should definitely be set with the tyres you plan to run and droop should be set with everything connected (wheels off obviously!)
I'm pretty novice with TC and don't even have a great setup station. I use (very accurate) verniers, blocks and height gauges, a 4 sided (well eight technically) camber gauge and a bit of nouse. Setup wheels would be nice for more accurate camber, but the car runs true, has good traction and stability and I'm not noticing drastic wear on the tyres.
Even if I got, say, set up wheels, I would still check camber with the tyres on afterwards.
I also have more important things to work on other than chasing set up!
Last edited by cplus; 06-12-2014 at 05:47 AM.
06-11-2014, 08:56 PM
#1169
Makes sense to me. Set the car up as your going to run. Measuring everything unhooked other than toe and steering doesn't make sense to me. The tyres you use change in diameter between brands and wear, so ride height will alter (and camber also, but minor) which you need to compensate for. And then droop needs to be altered to suit!
If nothing else, I think ride height should definitely be set with the tyres you plan to run and droop should be set with everything connected (wheels off obviously!)
I'm pretty novice with TC and don't even have a setup station. I use (very accurate) verniers, blocks and height gauges, a 4 sided (well eight technically) camber gauge and a bit of nouse. Setup wheels would be nice for more accurate camber, but the car runs true, has good traction and stability and I'm not noticing drastic wear on the tyres.
Even if I got, say, set up wheels, I would still check camber with the tyres on afterwards.
I also have more important things to work on other than chasing set up!
If nothing else, I think ride height should definitely be set with the tyres you plan to run and droop should be set with everything connected (wheels off obviously!)
I'm pretty novice with TC and don't even have a setup station. I use (very accurate) verniers, blocks and height gauges, a 4 sided (well eight technically) camber gauge and a bit of nouse. Setup wheels would be nice for more accurate camber, but the car runs true, has good traction and stability and I'm not noticing drastic wear on the tyres.
Even if I got, say, set up wheels, I would still check camber with the tyres on afterwards.
I also have more important things to work on other than chasing set up!
06-11-2014, 09:28 PM
#1170
Checking camber with tires on can be misleading very easily as rims are not perfectly true or have tiny differences from moulding, etc.
Camber is also a measure of the way suspension is going to work rather than how the tires sit on the car (I guess what I mean here is that camber tells you how the car is going to sit on the tires not the other way around).
Measuring things on a setup station can pinpoint problems not so evident when measuring things on the car ready to race. I quickly check everything after a run, and if the car behaved and there are no obvious issues, I leave it alone. If there are obvious problems during a run, I start checking on the bench, but if I can't see/find anything, it's setup station time.
Camber is also a measure of the way suspension is going to work rather than how the tires sit on the car (I guess what I mean here is that camber tells you how the car is going to sit on the tires not the other way around).
Measuring things on a setup station can pinpoint problems not so evident when measuring things on the car ready to race. I quickly check everything after a run, and if the car behaved and there are no obvious issues, I leave it alone. If there are obvious problems during a run, I start checking on the bench, but if I can't see/find anything, it's setup station time.