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Tamiya TRF418

Old 04-29-2014, 04:54 PM
  #931  
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Question on spur gears guys - I've just installed a kawada super ex, and have found that with the stock shim arrangement (2 of 4x0.2mm on the non-motor side) the spur sits awfully close to the top deck on the motor side.

Placing one shim either end of the shaft brings it back into the centre but I'm a little concerned something is a miss, but can't see how - the mounts all line up very well, and they are dowelled obviously, so can't go too far!
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Old 04-29-2014, 04:56 PM
  #932  
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But looking at this it appears Jiles has the same "problem".....!

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Old 04-29-2014, 05:40 PM
  #933  
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
What is the fishing line method?

Springs don't count as long as shocks are equal length. Besides, balancing the chassis doesn't have anything to do with this problem. The man complains there's more travel on one side than the other, not more load.

I used an integy balancing station or the four scale method to balance cars, but I found working by eye works just as well. Or maybe I just don't fret so much any more these days. Close enough is good enough.
Actually springs can make a difference! Just because the manufacturers say the springs are perfectly matched doesn't necessarily mean it is so.
If you set all your spring retainers exactly the same (right and left) on each pair of shocks, the springs can have slightly different compression rate from one to another then at ride height it can affect the reading.

Again, actually weight balance can affect ride height!
If your spring retainers are exactly the same and the springs are good, but your weight bias is heavier on one side to another then this can cause more compression and a variation on ride height readings.

He could have been referring to more shock travel length but I read it as ride height because he suggested 6mm and 5.5mm readings from right to left, hence why my comments referred to it. If I'm mistaken then I'm sorry for the confusion.

And you’re right about not fretting too much about some stuff. Some of the stuff mentions on this thread is all about being 100% clinically accurate but most people probably find it hard to feel the difference on the track. But if you write anything on these thread you have to write it that way because you will always get these pretentious experts that will shoot you down when all your trying to do is help out a fellow racer with some free advice.
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Old 04-29-2014, 10:54 PM
  #934  
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Originally Posted by cplus View Post
Question on spur gears guys - I've just installed a kawada super ex, and have found that with the stock shim arrangement (2 of 4x0.2mm on the non-motor side) the spur sits awfully close to the top deck on the motor side.

Placing one shim either end of the shaft brings it back into the centre but I'm a little concerned something is a miss, but can't see how - the mounts all line up very well, and they are dowelled obviously, so can't go too far!
It's not a problem because the spur won't rub. But I shim mine to the middle anyway.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:22 PM
  #935  
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Originally Posted by 2-Bad View Post
Actually springs can make a difference! Just because the manufacturers say the springs are perfectly matched doesn't necessarily mean it is so.
If you set all your spring retainers exactly the same (right and left) on each pair of shocks, the springs can have slightly different compression rate from one to another then at ride height it can affect the reading.

Again, actually weight balance can affect ride height!
If your spring retainers are exactly the same and the springs are good, but your weight bias is heavier on one side to another then this can cause more compression and a variation on ride height readings.

He could have been referring to more shock travel length but I read it as ride height because he suggested 6mm and 5.5mm readings from right to left, hence why my comments referred to it. If I'm mistaken then I'm sorry for the confusion.

And you’re right about not fretting too much about some stuff. Some of the stuff mentions on this thread is all about being 100% clinically accurate but most people probably find it hard to feel the difference on the track. But if you write anything on these thread you have to write it that way because you will always get these pretentious experts that will shoot you down when all your trying to do is help out a fellow racer with some free advice.
Yeah, he mentions in his post something about shocks being identical length hence my answer.

Sure, once the car is on its wheels, springs come into play, but his tests were on blocks with everything disconnected.

Hey, companies have to sell the clinical method otherwise who'd buy all that setup gizmotery?

Given the flaws I mentioned elsewhere of this chassis, I doubt anyone's car (and I include here world champions) would be the same after an A-main final. The only car I have seen that went to considerable length to key everything into untweakdomness was the Avid from Robitronic. Sold mine some time ago, but sill remember the tight fit of parts. Had other issues though that made me pull the trigger.
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Old 04-30-2014, 04:42 AM
  #936  
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Something interesting I discovered the other day. I thought it would be a good idea to pass along since this kind of info is hard to come by and is not mentioned anywhere in the Raceberry description.

I was comparing chassis as I wanted to drill my Raceberry and stock Tamiya chassis to use the Samix motor mount to give some more options. That's when I realized that the Raceberry chassis shifts the bulkheads and motor mount 2mm forward compared to the suspension mounts!

The stock Tamiya and Samix chassis share the same mounting positions for everything.

The wheelbase stays the same, but besides the obvious weight distribution change the Raceberry changes the shock and drive shaft angles as well. The battery slots are also moved forward on the RB.

Mike Slaughter
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF418-samix.jpg   Tamiya TRF418-rb.jpg  

Last edited by masterhit; 04-30-2014 at 05:12 AM.
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Old 04-30-2014, 08:17 AM
  #937  
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Originally Posted by masterhit View Post
Something interesting I discovered the other day. I thought it would be a good idea to pass along since this kind of info is hard to come by and is not mentioned anywhere in the Raceberry description.

I was comparing chassis as I wanted to drill my Raceberry and stock Tamiya chassis to use the Samix motor mount to give some more options. That's when I realized that the Raceberry chassis shifts the bulkheads and motor mount 2mm forward compared to the suspension mounts!

The stock Tamiya and Samix chassis share the same mounting positions for everything.

The wheelbase stays the same, but besides the obvious weight distribution change the Raceberry changes the shock and drive shaft angles as well. The battery slots are also moved forward on the RB.

Mike Slaughter
Good info. Similar to how the RB 417 had the Yoke mount quite far forward. After breaking 2 RB 417 chassis its a lot easier running the RB 418 chassis as you can use the stock 418 chassis & upper deck in a pinch. I never had a 418 stock chassis so I wasn't aware the RB 418 had shifted things around.
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Old 04-30-2014, 05:19 PM
  #938  
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Has anybody had the clips coming off the front DCJ shafts and pin comes out? Also
Is there any better front shaft blade protectors as the spec r ones don't seem to hold up.
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Old 04-30-2014, 05:40 PM
  #939  
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Originally Posted by Atechbh View Post
Has anybody had the clips coming off the front DCJ shafts and pin comes out? Also
Is there any better front shaft blade protectors as the spec r ones don't seem to hold up.
Roche blade protectors.
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:45 PM
  #940  
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I'm not sure what's going on at tower hobbies. Earlier this month they dropped the price of the TRF418 down to 590... And few days later it was back above 700.

Well now it's down to $542.70 and for tower club members it's $75 off to $467.5 shipped! That's cheaper than Banzai, who is still out of stock!

Get them before Tower changes their mind again

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDXHK&P=7
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:52 PM
  #941  
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Originally Posted by Atechbh View Post
Has anybody had the clips coming off the front DCJ shafts and pin comes out? Also
Is there any better front shaft blade protectors as the spec r ones don't seem to hold up.
I lost one, but as far as I'm concerned it was "just one of those things". Make sure the groove the clip sits in is clean and the clip is fully seated.

For the front blades I would suggest changing to a non-bladed out drive (although there will now be a long queue of people telling you the blades are fine!)
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Old 05-01-2014, 03:19 PM
  #942  
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Does anyone know the part number for the silver HPI springs?
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Old 05-01-2014, 04:07 PM
  #943  
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Originally Posted by Raman View Post
Does anyone know the part number for the silver HPI springs?
Here is the part # for the HPI silver springs:

http://hpiracing.com/en/part/6543

You should also pick up a pair of blue(softer) and pink(harder) springs for tuning purposes.
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Old 05-01-2014, 05:48 PM
  #944  
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And if you can't find HPI look for ride RED springs. Quality just as good rate basically identical.
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Old 05-02-2014, 01:56 AM
  #945  
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There are two HPI Silver Springs.
The original: HPI Silver (Silver colour) 16.9lb - 302cf/mm
The Current: HPI Silver (Black colour) 16.9lb - 302cf/mm

IMO, on the track the Silver/Silver's feel harder then the Silver/blacks

The Ride Red are 301cf/mm and on the track feel softer then the HPI Silver/Blacks


Hope this helps....
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