acutts

Hi Simmi It is built according to manual but there seems to be so much free play in the drive shaft where the go into the hubs that the camber changes by hand. I have never seen this on any other car. Guy said I would need to shim it all out but am really surprised and was wondering if this was normal for others. Need to stop the drive shafts where they go through bearings from having so much free play? Does this explain better?
Thanks

cplus

iTrader: (11)

You need 0,3mm of shim on the driveshaft.

0,1mm on the outside like the manual and 0,3mm inside.

If your car has taken a few hits the chubs can become super sloppy too. The tube spacer shouldn't be mega loose.

acutts

Thanks Cplus car not taken any real hits. I have the kit 0.1 outer spacer/ shim and the 1.5 in between the bearings so will try add the 2 x 0.3 spacers and see if that removes the movement. Any idea what Tamils part for the shims I need is or ca I just buy generics?

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Tamiya 53587

Hint: check the manual, the part number is next to the 0,1mm ones as you can only buy them as a packet of 10 x 0,1/0,2/0,3mm

niznai

What you have is typical Tamiya slop. First Tamiya car?

You need to shim a lot to get rid of it, but first make sure you have no play in the bearings. That's a quick and cheap fix for some of the play. The rest is not that straightforward.

Also, make sure the "camber" play is not in the camber links either. The kit ball cups are good, but the ball studs are not. You need to replace those with the hopup from Tamiya that have no play (fluorine coated). They're a tad larger in diameter and are a perfect fit to the cups.

There will also be play in the outer suspension hingepin.

Got the car s/h? Replace the front plastic bits (cheap), balljoints, bearings, and check again. If you can't live with the play left, start shimming.

Oh, and don't go by what the manual says. Every car is a bit different so you need to find what shim is right for your car, not what the manual thinks it should be. These cars are not manufactured to spacecraft tolerance.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

I agree with above. I tend to be really anal with slop, trying to remove any trace (without binding of course) and that doesn't always mean same shims each side.

Howeve, interestingly, I chatted to Volker at AOC down here a few weeks back and he said he and Umino don't really care about slop - just make sure things are even and very loose! The amount of movement he had in his rear arms I found quite staggering!

acutts

Started a rebuild today and can see that shimming is definitely needed at least 0.3 shims all round. Not sure whether to shim on the inside of the hub or on the outside under the pin is there any preference?

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Inside.

Putting them outside is pushing your track width out (not by much, but it still is)

acutts

Cheers Cplus for the answer as always 👍

Another question kit is 0.05 outside shim so if I need total 0.3 shim would you put 0.3 inside only or leave 0.05 outside and put 0.25 inside or does it not really matter?
Thanks again

xrayaustin

iTrader: (12)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...onversion.html

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Standard outside is 0,1mm (plus a 0,5mm wheel spacer (blue))

Keep that, then shim inside until it has no slop, but still spins free.

Typically it is 0,3mm inside. But it might more, might be less. Will be around that mark though.

greenpea76

iTrader: (28)

Do any of you 418 owners have a factory main chassis deck you'd like to sell? Preferrably in new to very good condition. These seem very hard to come by. I'm in the Los Angeles area. Thanks.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

I got one in very good shape as I went to a Samix conversion early on. Make me an offer...

acutts

Is it worth getting a 419 diff for my trf418? Or is there another manufacturer that makes one that would be better?

OVA

iTrader: (86)

Does the 418 come with the big bore shock as box stock ?