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Tamiya TRF418

Old 11-25-2014, 06:40 AM
  #1966  
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Originally Posted by Salkin
The manual instructs to add grease on e.g. the shaft blades.

I have replaced the front shaft spool cups with a type so I don't need blades in the front.

I add a little AW grease there also, because it's metal against metal.

Do you all use grease in these places, or can I stop using it if I accept some extra wear, and replace more often.

Will I gain less friction in the drive train if I don't use the sticky AW grease?

Was talking to some Xray drivers (T4'15) and they did not use it.
If your using the Roche cups etc, I don't run any grease on them, I just watch for wear on both the cups and the drive shaft. I do use AW grease at the DCJ area. So far, when doing a full rebuild, I only need to replace the drive shaft and the cups.
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Old 11-25-2014, 06:56 AM
  #1967  
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Originally Posted by goin2drt
Does anyone know the part number for the front cups so i can stop running blades? Also does it take any modding or just fits perfect?

Thanks.
You can try this - http://shop.smokem-racing.com/Smokem...F417_p_19.html
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Old 11-25-2014, 06:30 PM
  #1968  
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You can run those, the 417 steel spool cups or a Spec R spool which I normally do.

Here are the Tamiya steel cups.. http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=5285
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Old 11-25-2014, 06:53 PM
  #1969  
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac
You can run those, the 417 steel spool cups or a Spec R spool which I normally do.

Here are the Tamiya steel cups.. http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=5285
Thanks I will try those.
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:30 PM
  #1970  
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Originally Posted by goin2drt
Thanks I will try those.
You'll be better off replacing the blades. I use a bag of these every 2 weeks...in your case maybe a bag a month.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...w.asp?p_id=767
Best of luck...VSR
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:33 PM
  #1971  
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Originally Posted by farmbridge2404
You'll be better off replacing the blades. I use a bag of these every 2 weeks...in your case maybe a bag a month.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...w.asp?p_id=767
Best of luck...VSR
I Use the SpecR blades now. Every single time I tap something they are breaking. I am just getting tired of replacing them all the time. Yes i know the solution "stop hitting the boards"
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Old 11-25-2014, 09:47 PM
  #1972  
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Yeah, I much prefer the Spec R Version 2 spools. No blades to worry about. I used it on both my BD7 and 418 with great success. The Tamiya steel outdrives will work just as good. Just a tad heavier.
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Old 11-26-2014, 12:19 AM
  #1973  
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anyone recommend me a combo gear that will work with FDR 6?
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Old 11-26-2014, 02:43 AM
  #1974  
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64p or 48p?
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Old 11-26-2014, 03:07 AM
  #1975  
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Originally Posted by cplus
64p or 48p?
48p if possible , I tried 78/24 and the gears would not touch hehhe
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Old 11-26-2014, 03:58 AM
  #1976  
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84 or 85 with 26 will be near enough to 6 (5.97 and 6.04)

That's about the middle of mesh range.
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Old 11-26-2014, 08:57 AM
  #1977  
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Originally Posted by goin2drt
I Use the SpecR blades now. Every single time I tap something they are breaking. I am just getting tired of replacing them all the time. Yes i know the solution "stop hitting the boards"
The AE blades last a little bit longer. Btw, I hit those darn TQ boards way more often than you.
It's better to replace the blades vs the dcjs in my opinion.
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:00 AM
  #1978  
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Originally Posted by fuse01
48p if possible , I tried 78/24 and the gears would not touch hehhe
64p
116/35
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:07 AM
  #1979  
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I'm switching to 48p gears. What's the middle of the mesh range for 48p at 8.0 FDR?
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Old 11-26-2014, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by sohlman
I'm switching to 48p gears. What's the middle of the mesh range for 48p at 8.0 FDR?
90 spur

21 = 7.92

You get very little granularity at those ratios though.

For example, 20 = 8.325 and 22 = 7.56

Big jumps. Stick to 64p for mod.
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