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Old 10-24-2001, 07:59 AM   #76
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A lathe is a lathe is a lathe (providing the guides are adjusted correctly)....... spend your money on a decent cutter and you will have a new lathe! I wouldn't bother changing your twister, from what I've heard and seen it is a pretty sound lathe! There has really been NO new technology introduced into comm lathes for many years....... just different 'styles'
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Old 10-24-2001, 08:19 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm
A lathe is a lathe is a lathe (providing the guides are adjusted correctly)....... spend your money on a decent cutter and you will have a new lathe! I wouldn't bother changing your twister, from what I've heard and seen it is a pretty sound lathe! There has really been NO new technology introduced into comm lathes for many years....... just different 'styles'
other then you buy the hardware - lathe, the calibration of a a lathe is important as most of the lathe doesnt come with precise calibration resulting in poor comm cut.
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Old 10-24-2001, 08:48 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
other then you buy the hardware - lathe, the calibration of a a lathe is important as most of the lathe doesnt come with precise calibration resulting in poor comm cut.
But how do you calibrate the lathe?.... even Hudy cannot guarantee that they can manufacture the lathe to less than 0.001" tolerance because they do not run on polished surfaces and the anodizing will affect the tolerance!
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Old 10-24-2001, 08:52 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm


But how do you calibrate the lathe?.... even Hudy cannot guarantee that they can manufacture the lathe to less than 0.001" tolerance because they do not run on polished surfaces and the anodizing will affect the tolerance!
i.e. the carbide steel lathe is still the way to go ! Twister made good lathe even it comes first before most of the late comers.

the calibration of the bit holder/controller is very important.
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Old 10-24-2001, 11:25 AM   #80
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I would not get rid of your Twister. The person who tunes my motor is still using his he bought over 10 years ago. It works great. still has the orginal diamond bit as well. as long as you take care of it, it should last a real looooon time.
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Old 10-24-2001, 12:45 PM   #81
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I agree that the carbide steel V blocks are the best for keeping a accurate cut. I have a Cobra "motor builders" lathe. It costs more but it features the steel V blocks. I dont like the lathes that use bearings instead of V blocks but that is just my two cents. I have tried cutting with lubes and with out and either seems fine. I am currently trying Cobra cutting fluid and it seem to work as well as nything else I have used.
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Old 10-29-2001, 12:05 PM   #82
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Anyone try the Orion Lathe and what do you think of it?

Mike Webb
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Old 10-29-2001, 05:47 PM   #83
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Quote:
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Anyone try the Orion Lathe and what do you think of it?

Mike Webb
the lastest orion lathe looks good designwise. never seen people using it nor comments from others.
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Old 11-19-2001, 08:29 AM   #84
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Hi,

I have a Reedy lathe. (well 2 of them) and a Hudy. I use the Reedy lathe all the time. I use a ceramic bit instead of a diamond bit. (VERY pricey). cuts really smooth to the point I need to use a eraser on the com to take the shine off. the Hudy I have is the Hudy Tech. so far I like it. it does have the ball bearing blocks and I don't have any complaints about them. I do like the little "clips" that Hudy uses to hold the arm against the B/Bings. I also have a Twister that is Way old. it was this first one they made. it still cuts great.
I just wanted a different lathe to try.

I also have used the new Fantom lathe...... all one peice where the com rides, zero blacklash on both the lead screws SMOOTH ball bearings in it. if I didn't have the Reedy's and the Hudy I'd buy one in a second. by far the BEST lathe on the market. worth every penny.


Thanks

Last edited by Fakk2; 11-19-2001 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 12-15-2001, 10:19 AM   #85
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i dont know if u guys know it or not, but u can go into aa machine tool supply and aquire the bit for your lathes in a high grade carbide for about a 1.50 - 1.75 apiece. now granted these bits wont last the way a diamond bit will, but at the price u can cut ten comms and pitch them in the trash the way i do. they can be sharpened but a new bit is cheaper. just so u know not to give these yahoos at trinity or whatever 15 buck a whack for these things, the bit is called an AR-4. that is the bit style. its all they need to get you fixed up. if u want u could upgrade to ceramic or whatever but they are alot more money. my two cents worth!
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Old 10-30-2002, 07:25 PM   #86
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I am planning to get a Xipp lathe, is it worth to buy the $40 carbide v-block arm support or it is ok to just use the ball bearings support the lathe comes with?
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Old 10-30-2002, 07:53 PM   #87
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JLMG1971, buy the v-blocks. Tje bearings will be fine for the first cuts but as it wears the slop will increase. The v-blocks will also wear out but it will not introduce slop as it wears down. Also, carbide is kinda hard to wear out. I've my Xipp Super Lathe w/ v-blocks for more than a year now and I have no complaints. best bang for the buck.
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Old 10-31-2002, 12:53 AM   #88
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I've got an eagle lathe with bearings and had loads of trouble with copper lumps getting dragged between the motor shaft and the bearing as they rotated. You don't need to buy v-blocks though. Bearings are themselves hardened. Just flush the lube out of the bearings and put a dab of loctite on them so they can't rotate.
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Old 10-31-2002, 12:42 PM   #89
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I think I saw a Hudy Executive lathe w/ 2 diamond bits on ebay for $300 Buy It Now. I just use my simple LRP comm lathe.
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Old 10-31-2002, 04:17 PM   #90
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I have a Integy Xipp modified lathe. For $130 usd it comes with a base, 4 nicads in the base, slave motor and everything is wired and ready to go.
It has the bearings where the com shaft rides but all you need to do is use some bushing oil to lube the roller and shaft area. (it's not really a bearing, but a hardend steel roller on a hardend steel shaft). The carbide blocks add another $40 to the price unless you buy them in a combo with the lathe.
Also you should ALWAYS use some kind of lubrication in a metal to metal contact area. So a drop of oil where the com shaft rides is a good idea for the carbide blocks too.
As for the bit to the com. The marking pen is sufficient. Oil will keep the slave motor from bogging down a bit, but makes a big mess and I haven't seen any benefit from using cutting oil verses a marking pen.
From many racers and some factory experts. Stick with a carbide bit. Diamond bits break too easily and cost $75+. Also some people prefer the duller finish of a carbide bit.
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