9and3

Got it. Thanks for the info Wade...

Raman

iTrader: (94)

The Pro II came out and this thread went dormant. Wake up and race your TB04s and share set ups... That's an order

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

I have a setup questions first what suspension block are you using? I am using? I have c blocks in the front 1xa front rear block with a /e block in the rear. I also saw setups using no shims under the blocks I been using 1 block under all the blocks. With the chassis being so thin under the blocks I thought the roll center needed to be higher off the chassis. I hope this make sense.

TB03Racer09

iTrader: (1)

I did take my TB04 Pro II last weekend to the track for 4 hours of open practice. Handled pretty well but was lacking some top end, generally didn't feel as fast as the TRF417 V5 and the Xray T4 that were also sharing the track with me and running 21.5t motors. My car was quieter than there's though

I am running a Hobbywing Xerun V10 21.5t geared at 3.51fdr with 30 deg endbell timing. I changed it to 40 deg but the lap times didn't change so I changed it back to 30 deg. I think this motor will be benefit from a lower gear ratio but I can't physically fit more (unless I change the ring and pinion). My car is also very overweight (1460g).

My lap times averaged at around 21.0 seconds while the other two guys were managing 19's with an odd high 18 every now and then. I gave one of them a turn to see what they thought about the car. He got laps in the 20's and commented that it handled well but lacked top end. I changed droop settings as per his recommendation and the car felt much easier to drive fast. I started to get a few high 20's with the best lap being a 20.6.

Now I can't expect to be as fast as these guys who have been running here there for years but I think the TB04 does have some potential. I might be able to get a better idea of where the car and I stand when I attend an actual race. I am slowly putting together a setup sheet, when I have something decent I will post it up.

I am going to get a TRF at the end of the year so I am trying not to spend money on the car to get faster but instead improve my driving. I'm sure I can squeeze out another second with my current setup through better driving and tuning stuff. I do want to try and get more top end though

vivo quevas: I'm running stock block setup (plastic 1A's at the front, aluminium 1XA and 1D on the rear)

Raman

iTrader: (94)

I'm running stock 1A up front and 1XA inner and 1D or 1E on rear depending on track.

For the front is recommend running the same pair 1A/1A , 1C/1C etc. otherwise you will create arms sweep in turns. Arm sweep is generally used on very tight tracks.

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

I raced my car last weekend we race gt3/ open to any chassis as long as it weighs 1450. I ran fast time in the second round and the car was fast. I ran a ORCA 21.5 I thought the car has real potential. On a diet as of this week.If Tamiya could get the gear ratio up to at least 3.20 it would really help!

TB03Racer09

iTrader: (1)

For some reason, if I turn full left and apply full throttle the car does doughnuts. If I do this but turning right, the car will not spin out. Both sides have equal steering throw, in fact, I tried increasing the right throw more than the left and it still won't spin out. I haven't noticed any difference in steering under normal driving or on the track

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Check your camber.. One of your camber settings may be off.
Next check shock length. Raise front end and see which tire leaves ground first.. Goal is to have them both come off at same time. Do same for back end. Also check side to side weight.. Makes a big difference in how car turns

TB03Racer09

iTrader: (1)

Camber settings seem good. The tires do leave at the same time. I don't have the tools to measure weight distribution, I think that may be the culprit since the ride height on the right is 0.4mm higher than on the left

I just tried 50 degrees of timing on the road outside. I drove it for a minute, changed it to 40 degrees and drove for another minute then back to 50 degrees again for a minute. 50 degrees looked and sounded faster for sure. I am going to try it on the track next time and see

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I am looking to replace the stock plastic gears in the TB04 transmission off the spur gear mount. I understand that the metal gears from the DB02 will work. Is that Tamiya part #19804570?

IAmGreatDane

I am curious. Would one need to get longer drive shafts (i.e. from 44mm to 46mm) if I increase the width of the car using say the widest suspension mounts?

Thanks! c'',)

Raman

iTrader: (94)

If you are changing from A/A to C/C, you don't need to change to longer shafts. However if you changed from A/A to F/F which would be the widest, you may theoretically need to change to longer drive shafts

Boostgod

iTrader: (8)

That's correct. I already ordered mine and they come in a set of four. PM me and I'll sell you my two remaining metal gears. Im also in Canada so I am sure they could fit in a padded envelope for cheap mailing.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Adjust the spring preload independently so the ride height is equal left to right - or balance it via weight.

You can use really simple tools to measure weight distribution. A couple of ball point pens securely mounted vertically will do it! Two pens! a vice/clamps and some creativity is all you need.

Or just buy some hudy pins, they are only $10-$15.

tobyzhang

iTrader: (15)

A - A block in the front seems very interesting for stock setup. Does that make the car feel twitchy on turn in? Debating between pro ii and ta06r right now. Does anyone have experience with both?