Juan Aveytia

I wouldn't have done that. I installed .1 millimeter shims between every hole on all the covers to the car. That freed everything up

torg

It is personal preference, track and quality of servo dependent I would say. If you have a plastic gear servo, I would use a saver. Seems like people have been discussing it for over a decade on rctech (and I have not been around RC that long )

I have both direct and servo saver in my cars. My m05 has servo saver because I crash that... a lot...

In my TB04 and TA06 I use direct, I run almost exclusively at Tamiya America Raceway which I find very forgiving. I haven't broken any servos yet (I have mostly Futaba S9551s). It feels "snappier" to me. More direct

Hopefully someone smarter than me will chime in.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Has anyone had any issues with the gear differentials not being smooth? I've built one so far and it the differential is not smooth whatsoever. I've removed 0.1 mm shims on both sides and removed any flashing. The only time the differential operates smoothly, i.e notchy gear feeling is when I back the screws off a little.

When I do this, this causes the oil to leak. So obviously I'm not doing something right.

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

Build it to kit specs, run a pack through it, recheck.

Frankly that good advice for all the gear train.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

+1 I built my Pro II as per manual. No issues after 6 heats of racing. In fact drive line has become much smoother

TB03Racer09

iTrader: (1)

Just purchased some Tamiya brand, aluminium suspension blocks (1XA and ID) for the rear of my TB04 as well as some 3racing M3 1mm thickness aluminium shims to the remove slop in the rear suspension arms. The front seems quiet slop free so I'm not going to upgrade those just yet.

Juan Aveytia

Usually to remove slop in the suspension. (1)mm is to much. (.1) is what you normally need

TB03Racer09

iTrader: (1)

I already have a pack of 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3mm M3 shims handly. I also wanted the thick shims on the suspension pin to be aluminium as well because I found that the plastic ones can wear down a little.

TB03Racer09

iTrader: (1)

Solved my steering throw issue. Turned out that the link between the servo horn and bell crank was too short. I made it 32.5mm and now have all the steering I would ever need and on top of that, the steering angle is equal left and right.

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

How much lighter are the carbon reinforced chassis and the other CF parts are over stock parts?

Wade....

iTrader: (2)

They are barely lighter. Rear standard arm weighs 8.0g. Rear reinforced arm weighs 7.8g.

So... about 2.5% lighter. My guess is you might save ten grams if you change all the regular plastics to carbon.

Wade....

iTrader: (2)

Now that my TB04 Pro2 is built the chassis no longer tweaked, but nice and flat. So don't let a warped chassis bother you, it will flatten out once built.

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

You running the metal or the plastic gears. I suggest using the metal. They hold up forever and much smoother.
Just my 2$

9and3

Wade... just so I understand, you omitted/eliminated the chassis that came with the Pro II and substituted it with the optional (Tamiya #54596) Carbon Fiber-Reinforced Lower Deck, right?

I was wondering if that chassis was noticeable stiffer or if it was just bling. Thanks for sharing.

Wade....

iTrader: (2)

No, I am running the chassis that came with my Pro2. Not sure, but I think it is not the reinforced version but the standard...? I could be wrong here.

But no doubt the reinforced chassis will stiffen the car up (assuming the kit one is standard chassis). The reinforced parts are much harder. I put all reinforced arms/hub/knuckles on mine because I couldn't source the non reinforced parts easily.