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Old 06-12-2005, 03:24 PM   #1
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Default Speedtech Ceramic Bearing questions

Anybody have these and how do they compare with the comparably priced Acer Sets?
Also, are they Metal or Rubber Shielded?
I e-mailed Steve, but I'm sure he gets like a million e-mails so I thought maybe others could help.
Any info would be great as I would like to try a set.
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Old 06-12-2005, 03:39 PM   #2
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Hey i got acers bearing and they work great! There not that free but super smooth. I can see the diffrents in accelaration Hope this helps.
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Old 06-12-2005, 03:50 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony rivas
Hey i got acers bearing and they work great! There not that free but super smooth. I can see the diffrents in accelaration Hope this helps.
Yeah, I have an Acer Set for my Pro 4 and are silky smooth. I just wanted to see how Speedtech's compared.
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Old 06-12-2005, 11:20 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobydo
Anybody have these and how do they compare with the comparably priced Acer Sets?
Also, are they Metal or Rubber Shielded?
I e-mailed Steve, but I'm sure he gets like a million e-mails so I thought maybe others could help.
Any info would be great as I would like to try a set.

Hi scoobydo,

I'm sorry if I haven't replied (if it was sent over this weekend, then I'll see it on Monday). I have not tried a set of Acer's bearing recently. Our bearings are metal shielded (unless you're doing some really dirty parking lot type racing, or off-road, metal shielded ar enough). I personally use them in my TRF415 before and I had the same set of ceramic bearing in my car since the day I assembled it, and the bearings were still very good when I sold the car 8 months later These are imported bearings and are of similar grade to Yokomo ceramics

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Old 06-13-2005, 06:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedTech
Hi scoobydo,

I'm sorry if I haven't replied (if it was sent over this weekend, then I'll see it on Monday). I have not tried a set of Acer's bearing recently. Our bearings are metal shielded (unless you're doing some really dirty parking lot type racing, or off-road, metal shielded ar enough). I personally use them in my TRF415 before and I had the same set of ceramic bearing in my car since the day I assembled it, and the bearings were still very good when I sold the car 8 months later These are imported bearings and are of similar grade to Yokomo ceramics

Steve Wang
steve do have any ceramic bearing for the mi2?
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Old 06-13-2005, 06:49 AM   #6
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I have Acers and have really been unhappy. I had a whole bearing completely fall apart and the rest are not nearly as smooth as the Yokomo ceramics I had before. So I would suggest that you get the Speedtech ones.

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Old 06-13-2005, 07:23 AM   #7
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The ones sold by Speedtech are great bearings. They are very smooth and they have the metal shields. I had them in my car and they ran great.

I now use the ceramics from Acer though. They have much better seals and I personally feel the quality is better as well. They may require a break in period to run as smooth as the metal sheilded bearings but one they break in, they just get better and better.

With metal sheilded bearings you will still have to clean them out after every day at the track for maximum performance. The Acer sheilds will keep dirt, carpet fibers, rubber, anything out of the bearing foir a long time!! Also, if you dent a metal sheilded bearing in a crash, the bearing is shot. The Acer plastic sheild will not bend, break, or do anything to cause a bearing failure.

I have heard of a few people have problems with the Acer bearing in the past though. They complain that the Acers, new from the package, do not roll as freely as they would like or expect. So they take the bearing from the package, clean the factory lube out and erlubed them with a thinnner oil before they are run. IMO, this a a no-no with Acers as they NEED to be broken in. Put them in you car as they came from the package and run them for 15-20 packs for the breakin period. Once broken in, then go ahead and clean them out and relube them.

I started running them in my cars when they first came out about 4 years ago. I run them in all my cars now (TC-3/415/RDX) and I have never had one bearing failure. They get better and better with every run and the maintenance is cut down dramatically with these bearing!!
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Old 06-13-2005, 07:48 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koabich
The ones sold by Speedtech are great bearings. They are very smooth and they have the metal shields. I had them in my car and they ran great.

I now use the ceramics from Acer though. They have much better seals and I personally feel the quality is better as well. They may require a break in period to run as smooth as the metal sheilded bearings but one they break in, they just get better and better.

With metal sheilded bearings you will still have to clean them out after every day at the track for maximum performance. The Acer sheilds will keep dirt, carpet fibers, rubber, anything out of the bearing foir a long time!! Also, if you dent a metal sheilded bearing in a crash, the bearing is shot. The Acer plastic sheild will not bend, break, or do anything to cause a bearing failure.

I have heard of a few people have problems with the Acer bearing in the past though. They complain that the Acers, new from the package, do not roll as freely as they would like or expect. So they take the bearing from the package, clean the factory lube out and erlubed them with a thinnner oil before they are run. IMO, this a a no-no with Acers as they NEED to be broken in. Put them in you car as they came from the package and run them for 15-20 packs for the breakin period. Once broken in, then go ahead and clean them out and relube them.

I started running them in my cars when they first came out about 4 years ago. I run them in all my cars now (TC-3/415/RDX) and I have never had one bearing failure. They get better and better with every run and the maintenance is cut down dramatically with these bearing!!
This may be true for you but I don't have 15-20 battery cycles just for a break in period. I need the bearings to be free and do there job. Not have to wiat 20 runs just for them to break in...Come on. I did break these bearings in and have ran about 15 packs through them and yes a whole bearing literly fell apart as I was cleaning them. I just find that for TC nothing beats metal sheilds and unless you hit every rail you shouldn't have a problem even denting a metal sheild unless you are careless with removal. I watched a guy wrestle with a axel bearing for 5 minutes and he was about to use a screw driver just to push it out when I showed him a little trick on getting bearings out without damaging them. He was glad I showed him and now his bearings are thanking me too. If you take care of metel sheilds you should be fine. But to say Acers rubber sheilds are better is junk. They are probably better suited for off road as you would need more protection on the dirt than on asphalt. Really it all comes down to how much you want to spend and how often do you maintance your bearings. I take all of mine out after each race day and clean them with a RPM bearing blaster and motor spray after which I soak them in BOCA bearign lubricant over night....Pull them out of the lubricant and let them sit for ten minutes to drain out the excess lube and then add one drop of Acer bearing oil (which works on all bearings...LOL) then spin them on a KOSE bearing stick. Once they are fully spinning and they pass visual inspection they get put back in to the car. They spin very well and I love them. Right now I use BOCA in my BD and Yokomo in my SD. Both work very well but the Yokomos needed more work to free them up. If you have the cash go with BOCA. They are bomb proof and they have great seals, even though they are metal I find that nothing gets in, they need the least amount of maintance.
Just what I have found from using all the different brands.
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Old 06-13-2005, 09:13 AM   #9
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I can see you are are the team manager of Holy Rollers, that sounded you were preching to me!!

Actually, nothing in my post was to be related directly at you, while it sounded in your reply that you took it as a knock, it wasn't intened to be that way as i was stating personal preference and my experience with Acers and other bearings.

You may not have 15 runs to break in bearings and that is fine. You have to remember that you are one of the very few people out there that everytime their car touches the track, it's for a race only and not practice. (besides, it's takes about that much time to break in a cars drivetrain...do you have time for that?) Besides, have you ever figured out how much slower you would be, per lap, when you are running brand new (non-broken in Acer bearings) and compare them to the metal shelded that were well broken in. I would bet that you wouldn't notice a difference timewise.

To be honest, the Acer seals are not junk and they are much better than metal 100% of the time (with the exception that they need to be broken in). Once broken in, the run as smooth if not smoother than any metal sheild and the bearing require almost no maintenance. I really loved spending countless hours picking carpet fibers out of my metal sheilded bearings.

If you run on carpet, you will bend the metal sheilds in the bearings...it's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when. Once the meatl sheild is bent, the bearing is shot!!

And if I get this right, you have time, after each day at the track to take your car fully apart, remove all the bearings, clean all 20 of them individually, soak them overnight, relube each of the 20, spin each of the 20 on a bearing stick and then reassemble the car but you cannot spare 15 packs for a break in period? I would much rather take 15 packs on the track to practice while I am breaking in my bearings and when all is said and done, have bearings that are as clean and run as smooth on the 20th or 30th run as they were on their first run.

I am also sure that the Acer bearing you had that completely fall apart was a fluke and that it doesn't happen very often. Just as it doesn't happen very often with the Speedtech or the Boca bearings...but it does happen.

The point is, if you take the time to properly break-in the Acer bearings, you will have a set of bearings that will last forever. They will run as smooth if not smoother than any other type of bearing and with ever run they do get better. You will also have a bearing that will require so little maintenance that you will not believe it. I would much rather spend time on the track than waiting for bearings to soak overnight!!

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 06-13-2005, 10:10 AM   #10
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Shoe wee sounds like I am not the only preacher...LOL

You know I was probably a bit off key with my statement. What I should have posted is that I do not run on carpet and that I have tried two seperate attempts at Acer bearings and I was disapointed twice. More that Even after a break in period I was still not getting the ultra smoothness that you were refering to. I personally think they make a great bearing for Off Road and maybe Carpet but as for TC on asphalt nothing beats a metal sheild. And yes I did notice a difference in lap times..Granted not a huge difference but slight. I just think that they are not as smooth as Boca's or Yokomo's. I love Acer's bearing lubricant, probably the best on the market but as far a bearigns go I will stick with the Boca's and Yokomo's.
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Old 06-13-2005, 11:07 AM   #11
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I have run Acer's and they shields do fall off so it's not just a fluke. And that was just sonic cleaning them. I have the Acers in my original 415 that have well over 15-20 runs on them and the metal shields from Speedtech roll as smooth if not smoother than the Acers.

It's all a preference of what a person likes and what there experience is. If someone was to ask me to recommend a new set to buy, I would send him to Speedtech.
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Old 06-13-2005, 12:01 PM   #12
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Interesting thread we have going here.

I run acers, and haven't had a shield fall off. The only problem I find is that after the break in period (i gave it 20 runs or more), you need to blast out the original lube (i use an rpm bearing blaster) and check that the bearing is spinning freely. If it is not, then you will need to adjust the shield so that it does.
I also feel that the bearing blaster does a better job on my bearings than a sonic cleaner. (perhaps i haven't used the right liquid in the sonic cleaner) But the bearing blaster can get rid of more gunk faster than a sonic cleaner.

My $0.02 is to get BOCAs if you have the cash. Haven't heard complains about those. If you don't mind metal shields, speedtech is the way to go. Acer's the way to go if your budget is limited, or you need tight shields (that maybe too tight that you need to adjust them).

Mr Shookie:
"I watched a guy wrestle with a axel bearing for 5 minutes and he was about to use a screw driver just to push it out when I showed him a little trick on getting bearings out without damaging them. He was glad I showed him and now his bearings are thanking me too."

Can you teach me that trick too? I want to know how to take out those bearing axels without having to push on those bearing shields!!!!! (my axel bearing holding thingy is super tight....)
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Old 06-13-2005, 12:36 PM   #13
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um... if you dent a shield on your ceramic bearing. check the bearing see if it still spins, then why not just get a shield from your old bearing? clean it. polish it and put it in the ceramic one?

if you want to teflon coat it, go ahead. buy some teflon and coat that sucker

thats what i would do if i had ceramics.
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Old 06-13-2005, 12:44 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnewb2004
Mr Shookie:
"I watched a guy wrestle with a axel bearing for 5 minutes and he was about to use a screw driver just to push it out when I showed him a little trick on getting bearings out without damaging them. He was glad I showed him and now his bearings are thanking me too."

Can you teach me that trick too? I want to know how to take out those bearing axels without having to push on those bearing shields!!!!! (my axel bearing holding thingy is super tight....)
A long pair of revesable C-clip (Jesus clip) pliers that has the sharp points for holding the C-Clips. Then you take a vise a rotate the sharp point to fit out ward and now you have a pair of needle nose pliers that face out ward so you can grab on the inside of the bearing and pull them out without damage.
Once my wife gives back my camera I will take a picture of it and show what I did to make them.
Or if you are really good at welding you can make your own with a pair or needle nose pliers.
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Old 06-13-2005, 09:21 PM   #15
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its a great idea mr. shookie, i though about some sortof device like that. Just never had anything to make them out of.... I have nil (no) welding skills so I had to resort to using a screw driver and "poking" the bearings out... which makes me cringe everytime i do that... cause i know i am breaking something.... but to clean them i have no choice....

i will wait til u get your cam back as well.

Hebiki where can i buy teflon? and what brand (if they come in brands).. i am a total newb at this.
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