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Old 07-25-2013, 06:34 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Andrew S View Post
Rctech, I'm also new to this!
Could you do a step by step of the process? I understand how to wire it up, but I get confused with all the different timing etc!
Here's my current setup: orion r10 pro, reedy 13.5 sonic Mach 2 (we run boosted)
10 turbo timing, 10 boost, on motor it shows 20 and that's how it came.
I don't have other rotors!

So plug it all in, should leave all timings as they are? Wheels on? Or take pinion off motor?
What order to you change motor, boost and turbo timing etc etc???
You see how fresh I am now!! Lol
Your help would be much appreciated!
I set the boost timing to max on the ESC 50 degrees.

Set a Watt meter between battery and ESC.
With a fully charge battery and remove the pinion gear or move motor forward away from the spur.

Turn on the car.
I start at -10 on the timing ring.

Slowly rev to full throttle then let off.

Take a reading

Move one degree at a time on the motor timing ring.

You will notice that the WATTS and Amps will slowly go up.
Keep your eye on the Amp draw.

When amps increase and watts stay the same then back one degree and your done.
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:40 PM   #32
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Mr. RCTech, sorry to be so newbie but, are you finding the sweet spot using the combined time of the motor and esc? So if the motor has 30 degrees and the esc has 10 degrees, you adjust the motor or the esc? Or do you set the esc to 0 degrees and adjust the motor timing, then add timing during boost?
No each motor is different.
Always run ESC at max timing.
I run a Castle ESC with 49 degrees of boost.

ESC boost timing is more efficient then mechanical timing.
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:44 PM   #33
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I think the 160 degrees is temp of the motor. Some go up to 180 degrees (ouch).
Yes, 160 F.

You can run at 180 degrees but you need to re-charge the rotor.
Anything above 160F and the rotor looses magnetic field and gets weaker.

Yes, you can charge your rotor with a bigger rare earth magnet.
It just take about 5 minutes. If that was your next question.. LOL!
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:10 PM   #34
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Mr. RCTech...YOU'ER THE MAN! Thanks for your help and understanding.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:22 PM   #35
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Mr RCTech how about a video of the process. This would help everyone.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:48 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Mr RCTech View Post
I set the boost timing to max on the ESC 50 degrees.

Set a Watt meter between battery and ESC.
With a fully charge battery and remove the pinion gear or move motor forward away from the spur.

Turn on the car.
I start at -10 on the timing ring.

Slowly rev to full throttle then let off.

Take a reading

Move one degree at a time on the motor timing ring.

You will notice that the WATTS and Amps will slowly go up.
Keep your eye on the Amp draw.

When amps increase and watts stay the same then back one degree and your done.
Thank you very much!
I have but one more question!!
Max timing on esc, made up of boost and turbo combined??
Or leave turbo alone??
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Old 07-26-2013, 04:31 AM   #37
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I played around...
I put boost to 16, which is the most the r10 goes to,
and turbo to 20, which is max as well.
My watts just keep increasing and did not stop rising but I stopped at 212 watts as it was drawing around 28 amps! This was at 23deg on motor. Only tried this for a split second!
To keep my amp draw under 24 amps, I have to go to around 21deg.
Should I cap timing there so it does not go over 23-24 amps?
The reason I worry is that even with no load my motor was hitting 50deg Celsius!
Is this normal or will temps go throughthis the roof once a load is placed on it?
Should I take away the turbo timing?

When I put the car on the track before doing all this, I was quite happy with performance, just wanted a little more top end rpm, low touque is excellent.
I'm confused as to what to do from here!
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:14 AM   #38
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Had a cursory read of the thread.
The problem with most ESC's is that their 'timing' is not given in true degree's of timing.
As someone has mentioned, the Hobbywing's use 'steps' of timing, so adding the motor timing to the ESC is unlikely to give you any true timing value.

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Old 07-26-2013, 06:30 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew S View Post
I played around...
I put boost to 16, which is the most the r10 goes to,
and turbo to 20, which is max as well.
My watts just keep increasing and did not stop rising but I stopped at 212 watts as it was drawing around 28 amps! This was at 23deg on motor. Only tried this for a split second!
To keep my amp draw under 24 amps, I have to go to around 21deg.
Should I cap timing there so it does not go over 23-24 amps?
The reason I worry is that even with no load my motor was hitting 50deg Celsius!
Is this normal or will temps go throughthis the roof once a load is placed on it?
Should I take away the turbo timing?

When I put the car on the track before doing all this, I was quite happy with performance, just wanted a little more top end rpm, low touque is excellent.
I'm confused as to what to do from here!
0 on the tubo timing.
Set at 23 amps.

You need to run a smaller spur gear to gear for top speed.
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:33 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Had a cursory read of the thread.
The problem with most ESC's is that their 'timing' is not given in true degree's of timing.
As someone has mentioned, the Hobbywing's use 'steps' of timing, so adding the motor timing to the ESC is unlikely to give you any true timing value.

Skiddins
ESC steps set at 2.
Early Rpm boost timing as possible.
Second Rpm number later if you need more punch and sooner if you need more top speed.

Last edited by Mr RCTech; 07-26-2013 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 07-26-2013, 12:25 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Mr RCTech View Post
0 on the tubo timing.
Set at 23 amps.

You need to run a smaller spur gear to gear for top speed.

Thanks again!
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Old 07-28-2013, 01:36 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr RCTech View Post
You do not need to know about real 0 degree timing is on the can.
I know by metering alot of motors.

Here what you do.

Always use a fat rotor, and with no load on the motor, start at - 10 degrees of timing and hit full throttle with a watt meter hooked up between the battery and speedo.

Target amp draw.
13.5 motors - about 23-25 amps
10.5 motors - about 20-23 amps
and so on...

Read amp draw.

Your looking for the sweet spot where you get max WATTS (power) for as low amp draw possible.
Thats where you get max efficiency.
Its like dynoing your Motor and Battery together.

Remember WATTS (Power) = Volts X Amps

Gear to the motor. Run no higher then 160 degrees on motor.

Your good to go...
Same principles for blinky racing, sir?
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:28 PM   #43
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Same principles for blinky racing, sir?
Yes, only amp draw is different.

You want to set at 1.5 amps then gear.

Next, move timing up one degree at a time. Run them temp. motor.

Keep going until your temp is around 160
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:50 AM   #44
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Mr.CTech, how far the temperature is influenced by Cooler and Heatsink?
That is, if the temperature in the RC in action is in the 160F but with forced ventilation, are not fooling the actual temperature?
What is correct? arrive at the ideal temperature just nothing cooler for racing and use more extensive?
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:51 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by 314ck5h33p View Post
Mr.CTech, how far the temperature is influenced by Cooler and Heatsink?
That is, if the temperature in the RC in action is in the 160F but with forced ventilation, are not fooling the actual temperature?
What is correct? arrive at the ideal temperature just nothing cooler for racing and use more extensive?
Club racing I don't push my equipment.
Run 145-150 degrees F

Big Races I will run as high as 160-170 degrees F but will recharge the rotor.
Any temp above 160 and the rotor demagnetizes.

I always recharge my rotors before the next race.
Its more consistent with no drop in lap times.
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