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Old 07-25-2013, 04:10 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by wagnerov View Post
Which thrust bearing are you using? I haven't gotten anything else to fit or work right in there except for the stock stuff, where if you sneeze on the locknut it is either too loose or too tight. Not that that's a bad thing because one gets it right eventually; I just prefer the Tamiya setup with belleville washers and a thrust bearing race where there is a finer adjustment IMO.

Your setup for the front is identical to what I'm running at Nor-Cal with the exception of tires, 571 softs for me. I run 0 toe now and no center-point steering, whereas I ran up to -1 before with CPS. If the traction starts degrading halfway through the day I switch to .020's and add a little bit of droop to the rear pod.

The rear is a whole 'nother story though: it's set up around the hard tires (softs if we are at Ripon or a parking lot). I spent a day for testing two weeks ago and wish I'd done that before the Reedy!

One of these days I need to make a trip to LA to race UF1 with you guys.
Just a regular 1/4" x 3/8" non-flanged bearing. I use the ones from RC 4 Less, not sure what brand Mark is using, I'm sure most are fine. The T.O.P. ones have a difference to the race or shield design that makes them not work well as a thrust as they will feel sandy right from new
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Old 07-26-2013, 04:44 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Hey Mark, can you explain the difference in measurement between pod droop and pod sag? With pod sag are you lifting up on the center shock and measuring up-travel from normal ride height? And with pod droop you have the car on blocks and you measure the height of the lower pod plate where the wing attaches?

Or do I have them swapped?

I have made significant improvement with my car on carpet but I don't think it is quite good enough to share yet, as I am still trying to figure things out.
Hi Lloyd - exactly how I measure it.

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Good luck! Our next F1 race is at the new indoor asphalt track at Delta RC Aug 10. Bite is reported as high so the TOP cars should be lovin it. The search for rear traction will be postponed
OD - made some additional changes last night. Searched for the least productive parking lot I could find. Ended up going with the following changes.

- built two shock packages 1) standard Rebel TOP center with 35wt + Associated Blue 2) Full-bodied Tamiya TC shock 3hole with 35wt + Tamiya Red

--I thought that the full-bodied TC shock gave the car more rear traction and more pack. Will see tomorrow.

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Originally Posted by Mr.A Morris View Post
Per the TOP Facebook page, a Rebel F1 finished 2nd overall for the ETS series! 3rd at the last race.
Morris - I would love to track down those setups. OD, can we send out the RED Helicopters and guys with suits to track it down?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wagnerov View Post
Which thrust bearing are you using? I haven't gotten anything else to fit or work right in there except for the stock stuff, where if you sneeze on the locknut it is either too loose or too tight. Not that that's a bad thing because one gets it right eventually; I just prefer the Tamiya setup with belleville washers and a thrust bearing race where there is a finer adjustment IMO.

Your setup for the front is identical to what I'm running at Nor-Cal with the exception of tires, 571 softs for me. I run 0 toe now and no center-point steering, whereas I ran up to -1 before with CPS. If the traction starts degrading halfway through the day I switch to .020's and add a little bit of droop to the rear pod.

The rear is a whole 'nother story though: it's set up around the hard tires (softs if we are at Ripon or a parking lot). I spent a day for testing two weeks ago and wish I'd done that before the Reedy!

One of these days I need to make a trip to LA to race UF1 with you guys.
What are you running for your rear axle height spacers and what is the orientation of the axle mounts?

You should plan on it. There is some big race that TQ Raceway is hold with a bunch of the guys coming from Japan to race F1 on rubber and foam on carpet!
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:08 PM   #63
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Setup for full-bodied shock.

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Old 07-26-2013, 05:43 PM   #64
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Quick poll.

For the guys running rubber tires, can you tell me:

Front Rubber Tire:
Front Wheel:
Front Width:

Rear Rubber Tire:
Rear Wheel:
Rear Width:
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:55 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by MDawson View Post
Quick poll.

For the guys running rubber tires, can you tell me:

Front Rubber Tire: Pit 571
Front Wheel: Exotek 3mm offset
Front Width: 189mm

Rear Rubber Tire: Pit 575
Rear Wheel: Exotek 3mm offset
Rear Width: 189mm
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:03 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by MDawson View Post
Setup for full-bodied shock.
Looks nice, and somehow has no blue on it . Some of us have been using a big shock on the WGT car. I think it will be a good option for the F1 as well, but haven't put one on yet as I have been waiting until I get the set up a little closer. The big shock just feels smoother and requires less maintenance. I made some big shocks with Photon TC shock bodies and longer shafts. I can post the details or you can order them from TOP USA
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:49 PM   #67
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I think I have successfully exercised some of the setup issues I have been dealing with.

BIG THEMES for running rubber tire on asphalt
  • The stock rear end is too wide in relation to the front of the car. To bring the track width more inline with other F1s on the market I reduced the rear width by removing the two small axle spacers. I may try to further narrow the rear. The result - the rear of the car doesnt over-drive the front.
  • If you are running the Tamiya F104 front end - the width needs to be increased in relation to the rear. I added a 2mm spacers to each side of the front axles.
  • Replace, inspect and change as needed the bearing in the diff that acts as a thrust bearing. Any side slap of the axle may cause the bearing to bind which will result in an unpredictable spin
  • Less rear droop is your friend. Seemed like the car likes 1-2mm. More than that and the rear rolls unpredictably.
  • Reduce axle height in the rear by using 2mm spacers instead of the stock 3mm. Lowering the rear of the car made the car more predictable on-power
FINAL SETUP


FRONT
Stock Tamiya F104 front end with EXOTEK upper link system
7 degrees of caster
-3 degrees of camber

.018 springs, no lube
Tamiya Offset front spindles - rear hole, swept back
1.5 droop
PIT Hard

REAR

Tamiya full-sized touring car shock, 3 hole, 35wt with Tamiya Red Spring
TOP Gold side
AE Sidelinks
Tamiya HEAVY Dampner grease
2mm droop
PIT Soft

FULL PACK


I thought the car was the best it has been. No wicked spin outs, good forward traction and predictable in the high and low speed areas of the track.


Work in progress.
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:11 AM   #68
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Mark,

Have you done any testing with the shorty lipos?
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:16 AM   #69
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Mark,

Have you done any testing with the shorty lipos?
That is next on the list. I ran shortys early on but had more fundamental things to work through
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:11 AM   #70
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I finally upgraded to the Exotek upper arms. I think right now it is at about 6 degrees caster, 1.5 camber, so we will see what ends up working well.

For those running on carpet with Pardus, do you typically glue the tire sidewalls?

I have glued the outside sidewalls both front and rear, but am worried that gluing the rears is contributing to the issue I am having where in the last minute of the run (5 minute run) the rear tires seem to overheat and break free mid-corner. I can avoid it if I drive the car really easy and smooth, but it can be hard to do that in a main.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:03 PM   #71
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Out of curiosity, why did you guys switch to the 104 front end? Did the stock front suspension not work or was because of some rule?
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:52 PM   #72
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Out of curiosity, why did you guys switch to the 104 front end? Did the stock front suspension not work or was because of some rule?
Yes - most of the racing is based on the UF1series.com rules.
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Old 09-06-2013, 05:00 AM   #73
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Hi Guys
I'm the Guy how drive with the TOP Rebel at the ETS. The front axle works very well. The reason wy we do that, are the ETS rules. The suspensionmount must be inside the body. The suspensionmount part is from Tamiya and the upper suspension is from Exotek. All other parts are original TOP. i will make soon a picture about that and post it here.
Best regards
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:10 PM   #74
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Anyone been having trouble with the grub screw in the inline axle for the RF01? I have had two inline axles split on the vertical at the grub screw where the walls are thinnest. To me it seems the walls on the axles at the grub screw are too thin.
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:22 PM   #75
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People still running these? I've just picked one up with the intention of running LMP - think it's got the potential to be a real quick car.
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