matt_is_superco

iTrader: (75)

For now I'm just putting these cheap Traxxas nylon 8mm wide hexes on the front. I bought this slightly upgraded roller on eBay a while back. I've never taken it apart, it just sat off to the side until I learned of VTA a couple weeks ago. It's already got pretty blue anodized 6mm wide wheel hexes. But it looks like the wheels are going to rub the ball joints of the front turnbuckles. I might be in the market for a 4mm to 5mm bore reducer to cover the threaded portion of the front axle under the Traxxas 8mm wide hex. I will need to use threadlock on the wheel nuts. Thanks Bob for posting your TA05 v2 setup experiences - I will have to revisit that when I get to that point. FYI - (before anyone asks) I don't get much rc playtime, so I move slow and steady. And I'm cheap, so I'm not buying any "hop up" parts. Just trying to build a raceable VTA car.

matt_is_superco

iTrader: (75)

That's better. You can see how previous wheels rubbed the nylon over the ball joint all the way down to the metal.

matt_is_superco

iTrader: (75)

My old hexes were actually 5.5mm wide. Here's one next to a 8mm wide front wheel hex for a 2wd Slash/Stampede/Rustler.

matt_is_superco

iTrader: (75)

Did anyone notice I put a stupid crazy steering servo in this rc? JR Servo DS 8711. I'll start out with just the provided Novak glitch buster, but will probably need BEC. Novak part# 3339 Edge and Ballistic 25.5T will be installed soon. Let me know if you recommend any particular gearing. I'm a big 32 pitch fan, and Mod1 fan. This smaller gearing throws me off.

Will someone please tell me if the rear bumper is typically a separate piece of lexan body for VTA class?

big al

iTrader: (10)

Keep in mind that with wider hexes, the car will start to push. I remember only using .5 to 1mm max of spacers. I eventually used xray plastic links because of their open top. The only reason I stopped using my TA05 (still have it) was because of the problems (at that time) of finding proper spur gears. Such a good car! Best of luck Gentlemen!!

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Well, many VTA bodies have the rear bumper separate, but not quite all of them. I think HPI's Camaro is a one-piece, & I think the rear of Protoform's J71 is integrated in the body(though it has separate nose pieces). As for the servo, I don't THINK you'll need a separate BEC, but I'm not 100% sure(I'd try it with just the Edge's BEC & maybe a glitch buster first & see how it goes)...Oh, & if you have any locknut issues, you can also try Tamiya's serrated wheel nuts(http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=1361 ), they have a lower profile & don't rely on any nylon inside the nut to hold it in place....

jrz93

iTrader: (9)

im not selling anything dude, just trying to help
the descriptions are usually where you find details
and iphone doesn't have flash
go ahead and try the swaybars for yourself , i was actually trying to save you money, you douche

matt_is_superco

iTrader: (75)

Thanks for calling me a douche. I now recognize my wrongdoings and ask for your forgiveness. Whatevs dude.

Thanks again for your feedback Bob. This servo should power through every turn

With the 8mm wide wheel hexes up front, and 5.5mm wide in the back - The outside tire width is still larger in the rear than the front. That's close enough to scale for me. Maybe I'll widen the rears eventually...

Now I need to familiarize myself with painting detached bumper panels. I'm thinking about going for a vintage University of Texas Longhorns paint scheme. Burnt orange and cream white. I'm in the middle of a house move now, so I'll probably go with rattle cans instead of digging out all the airbrush stuff.

Bumpy-FW

iTrader: (2)

I hope that the name calling didn't just kill what was starting to be an interesting thread. The TA05 is a great car and I would love to show how good it can be. I am going to need setup help to do that and was hoping that this would be the thread for that.

I am running the Tamiya 5mm clamping hexes and I don't have a problem with the rims rubbing.

matt_is_superco

iTrader: (75)

So far Grizzbob's post #29 has the best TA-05 VTA setup recommendations I've seen. Feel free to ask more specific setup questions in this thread. Several people have chimed in with answers so far. I'll get there too eventually...

Update on my Active Powersports order: I just received a partial refund for the driver body figure they did not ship. I submitted a return request through their website using my iphone, I got no response for a week, and then this morning I received email notification of the refund. Not the greatest communication in the world, and so far all but one of my orders have been incomplete, but their prices are the lowest online and they remedy the problems eventually.

Apparently every single Shelby GT car has racing stripes, so I guess I'm going with blue or red with white racing stripes. Or maybe black racing stripes to match the black wheels Active Powersports selected for me. I'm sure either would look great.

Edit: Adding grey body with black stripes. Saw it in the for sale forum. I like it.

Bumpy-FW

iTrader: (2)

I read his post and I will be trying the spring oil combo. But, I have the original TA05 not the V2 and not the IFS.

Recently I have been looking around at some of the higher end kits and it is looking like they are running a gear diff in the rear and a spool up front. Has anyone tried this combo?

With the addition of a center one way the car should carry a lot of corner speed. That is the name of the game when you are talking motors that are so low on power.

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

I know the IFS stuff seems like it wouldn't relate to more conventional front ends, but honestly, I don't believe it has enough of an impact on handling to pay any mind to(but it is cool for running those bodies that have such low noses, like Tamiya's Honda HSV-010), for a conventional shock tower I'd try the shock in the middle to start & adjust from there. As for the spool/gear diff setup, I do run that on my TRF417, & I do use a spool in the front of my '05, but I still have a ball diff in the rear(have them set up with ceramic balls & thrust assembly, & built & maintained as per Jilles Groskamp's how to videos on Tamiya's TRF site, http://teamtrf.com/index.php/media/trf-videos , I believe the Pro Tips #2 video is the one that covers diffs, VERY good stuff for learning good ways to do it, works great). And about one-ways, they can be useful, but I've never been comfortable with the fact that you lose half your car's brakes when you use one(& nowadays, you can find setups that can get the amount of steering you want with a spool, which will be more stable under braking & off throttle)....

Bumpy-FW

iTrader: (2)

I Will Check That Out. I Have Seen Plenty Of Setup Sheets But None From Someone Running Vta. I Was Already Thinking Of Going With A HeavierShock Oil. I Am Not Sure If Anyone NoticeD But The Center One Way Is On Clearance For Around 13 On TamiyUusa. Also The Db02 Front One Way Is On Clearance And Will Fit But It Has A 37T Pulley.

jrz93

iTrader: (9)

i apologize for name calling but i was just trying to help
TQ racing is the best place i have found for Tamiya parts as its hard to get Tamiya stuff here in the US and they have most in stock
What size track are you running on? Was just trying to help as this is a unique car as most use TC4, TC6 or older xray, and I could help you with set up for the ta05 for vta
I have found that larger hexes on rear (10mm) and 8mm on front help as if front is as wide or wider it pushes real bad.This is possible with the 68 camaro body, as it has wide rear wheel wheels.(210 in rear)
IDK if itll work with the mustang body as its not as wide. This condition is true for Either asphalt or carpet
here is a pic
as you can see there is more room in rear than front and its possible to go with larger offset on rear

matt_is_superco

iTrader: (75)

Apology accepted
I'm still not a fan of that website. Maybe after I break some parts and need replacements I'll appreciate your recommendation more

I put 8mm wide hexes up front and left 5.5mm wide hexes in rear. The rear is still wider than the front. I'll measure with a caliper to confirm my visual findings later.

I was digging through old TC bodies to find practice (beater/basher) bodies and found the front body posts for a nitro RS4 fit perfectly on my TA05 v1. I'll have to modify the back where the nitro engine cutout is, but now I have a ton of practice bodies. I also adjusted the alignment. It was WAY off, so I visually reset the alignment so the wheels are parallel to the chassis and perpendicular to the ground. I'll adjust toe-in etc much later. Here's a pic after resetting alignment with a nitro RS4 BMW beater body.