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Old 06-23-2013, 09:01 PM   #16
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Looks like they might(at that price, should be worth trying), as long as the inner hole will fit the axles, & as long as you can still get a wheel nut to tighten down on it(just not sure if 8mm might be too much, I know with my 6mm hexes, the locknuts just BARELY thread far enough down for the plastic in the nut to grab & do its job). But again, at the price you found, they might be worth trying...
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:23 PM   #17
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I finally received my body, wheels, and tires. But no driver for the inside. Gotta love Active Powersports

One stupid noob question. I ended up with HPI 17508 1965 Shelby GT-350 body. I don't have to use all the included decals for it to be VTA legal, right? I wasn't expecting to see blue racing stripe decals.
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:03 PM   #18
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nope, no blue stripe required. I actually don't really use decals on the bodies much. Maybe tail lights and head lights or manufacturer. VTA style paint is encouraged on the body. Enjoy the class!
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:14 PM   #19
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I just picked up a new unpainted vintage Tamiya 1/10 scale driver still on the parts tree for $4.40 shipped on eBay. There are 6 more left at the moment. Seems like a perfect fit for VTA.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300917702667...#ht_503wt_1054
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt_is_superco View Post
I just picked up a new unpainted vintage Tamiya 1/10 scale driver still on the parts tree for $4.40 shipped on eBay. There are 6 more left at the moment. Seems like a perfect fit for VTA.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300917702667...#ht_503wt_1054
nice find! I have everything but a drive figure at the moment, and the price is definitely right I am setting up a TA03R TRF for the local VTA races.
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:53 AM   #21
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I am currently rebuilding my TA05 for the upcoming VTA season. I am still playing with shocks to find the feel that I am looking for.
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:07 PM   #22
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Is there anything I need to do mounting the tires some special way for VTA? I've glued many SCT, MT, and buggy tires before using Insta-Flex CA. Please let me know if I need to pay special attention to anything on these VTA wheels/tires. Thanks folks.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:30 PM   #23
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i'm currently using my Ta05 as a vta and you can pm me any questions as if u check my pics album u can see some pics.
I can help you with gearing but one thing i recommend is to run sway bar in rear but unlike the ae tc4 more commonly used the TA05 does not like the front sway bar on the front for vta tires...push like a dumptruck

I found that TQ is the best site for Tamiya here in america

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/parts.asp?parts_p_id=886
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:39 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Grizzbob View Post
There is one thing else I think you'll need to order, some thicker hex hubs, like these: http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...product_id=166 . Otherwise, the HPI VTA wheels are VERY likely to rub against the kingpins in the front(& possibly the camber link on the rear hubs, too), & that'll screw up how the car runs, Had to use a LOT of spacers on my TA05(inside the wheels) before I found those 6mm hexes....
had same issue

here is what i used

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1975
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:26 PM   #25
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What a crappy website, it doesn't even tell you it's a 12mm hex. I'm on my iPhone and it took me a minute to see its a 6mm thick part in the item description. Where is the "specs" tab? Sorry dude, but you didn't sell me on your rc source website. Thanks for letting me know you think front sway bars on a TA05 make it drive like a dump truck. I'll wait and see if anyone else confirms or challenges that.
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:25 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt_is_superco View Post
What a crappy website, it doesn't even tell you it's a 12mm hex. I'm on my iPhone and it took me a minute to see its a 6mm thick part in the item description. Where is the "specs" tab? Sorry dude, but you didn't sell me on your rc source website. Thanks for letting me know you think front sway bars on a TA05 make it drive like a dump truck. I'll wait and see if anyone else confirms or challenges that.
Well, I can't speak for it in all conditions, but on carpet, I've ALWAYS run sway bars front & rear, typically a yellow one in the front & a red in the rear. & that's also running a spool in the front, & I believe blue front shock springs(& red rears, or Associated greens if I need a bit more give in the rear). Never had a problem with a push, unless I go into a corner too wide & end up WAY off the rubber laid down(& even then, the car just drifts, just gets skatey till I get back on the racing line). And I think all the guys I run with in the VTA class at Mike's Hobby Shop in Dallas agree that my car works pretty darn good(it's about the only place I can run onroad right now, in my home state there are NO onroad tracks left, so lately I just run at Mike's when I can afford it, & do VRC Pro when I can't)....
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Old 07-05-2013, 12:37 AM   #27
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What Weight Shock Oil Are You Running? Do You Have A Setup Sheet You Could Post?
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Old 07-05-2013, 01:34 AM   #28
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I currently don't have front or rear sway bars yet. Thanks for the recommendation. I only have nice looking threaded aluminum shocks - need to replace the shock oil. I think shocks are my only upgrade so far, everything else seems stock.

Question: Is it common for VTA lexan bodies to have an extra piece for rear bumpers? I have HPI 1965 Shelby GT-350. Looks nice. But I hope I paint and attach the rear bumper correctly... Seems like another fun VTA class challenge.
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Old 07-05-2013, 09:20 PM   #29
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What Weight Shock Oil Are You Running? Do You Have A Setup Sheet You Could Post?
I'm afraid I don't really keep setup sheets(have just always kept a few things in my head & adapt the rest as the situation calls for, old habit), but I think a good general setup for the shocks(what I do in mine, at least), is using 3-hole pistons all around, 50wt(using Associated oil) in front & either 40wt or 30wt in the rear, depending on conditions. Also, I usually run 1.5 degrees camber all around(though I can't remember my droop settings at the moment). Oh, & also, my rear shocks are mounted on the middle of the shock tower & I have 1 1mm shim on the IFS bellcrank for the front shocks(my TA05 is a v2, in case you didn't know, so it uses the IFS front end)& all shocks lower mounting is in the 2nd hole from the outside in the arms(that's for the short reversible arms). The car does exhibit some body roll, but it's EXTREMELY forgiving that way(not to mention everyone that sees it run with my '70 Boss 302 body on it & with the body roll has like the realistic look of how it runs, as well as how well it corners). And as for camber links, I have the fronts mounted on the second hole out from all the way in(link is almost as long as can be) with a 1mm shim under the ballstud, & the rear links are set as long as possible(outer hole on the hub & all the way in on the bulkhead) with a 1.5mm shim under the ballstud. And that's about all I can recall right now, aside from what I've already said(like front spool & the rear ball diff with all ceramic balls, built up as per Jilles Groskamp's Pro Tips videos, look on TRF's site to find the videos, good stuff for ANY touring car)....
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:57 PM   #30
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I've been following this thread with interest as while I've been on holidays I've been building my old TA05 up to run in VTA. I've enjoyed going back to my first ever TC, but admit I don't miss building ball diffs. Is there a gear diff that works well in this car. I've seen the tamiya unit, would that do the trick.
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