Getting people hooked in touring- What chassis?
#31
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)

Five,
I'd be surprised if Gary at 4seasons wasn't able to order a tc4 for you.
I really have to disagree about the tc4. One of the guys here in the PNW (a REALLY fast guy) used a box stock tc4 to rip everyone in 17.5 and mod a new one. He just used his setup knowledge. I used a box stock ta05 for many years and did very well with it. Plastic shocks and all. I only upgraded the belts because after a few years the originals wore out. Newer designs aren't necessarily faster, just have better parts support.
Don't believe the hype!
I'd be surprised if Gary at 4seasons wasn't able to order a tc4 for you.
I really have to disagree about the tc4. One of the guys here in the PNW (a REALLY fast guy) used a box stock tc4 to rip everyone in 17.5 and mod a new one. He just used his setup knowledge. I used a box stock ta05 for many years and did very well with it. Plastic shocks and all. I only upgraded the belts because after a few years the originals wore out. Newer designs aren't necessarily faster, just have better parts support.
Don't believe the hype!
#32

I intended the TC4 Club Racer to be the car you describe. The choice was to not make it RTR from the factory because this would add to the cost of the vehicle and it would require that some end users still throw away the gear that comes with it (tires that don't work, body that doesn't fit the local class, etc.) and buy something else.
The concept allows for individual hobby shops and distributors worldwide to spec the cars properly for the local racing scene using electronics packages that are economical and fit the class that the car would be racing in.
Ideally, each hobby shop would build RTRs (or race packages) in house using the Club Racer chassis as the base. So in the end they would be selling a VTA, 17.5, DC, Drift, or a spec class car for their own series.
The advantage is that the racer gets exactly the car he needs to race locally in RTR form with nothing to throw away. Selling the items individually means more profit for the hobby shop while at the same time providing more value to the customer.
The concept allows for individual hobby shops and distributors worldwide to spec the cars properly for the local racing scene using electronics packages that are economical and fit the class that the car would be racing in.
Ideally, each hobby shop would build RTRs (or race packages) in house using the Club Racer chassis as the base. So in the end they would be selling a VTA, 17.5, DC, Drift, or a spec class car for their own series.
The advantage is that the racer gets exactly the car he needs to race locally in RTR form with nothing to throw away. Selling the items individually means more profit for the hobby shop while at the same time providing more value to the customer.
#33
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)

Five,
I'd be surprised if Gary at 4seasons wasn't able to order a tc4 for you.
I really have to disagree about the tc4. One of the guys here in the PNW (a REALLY fast guy) used a box stock tc4 to rip everyone in 17.5 and mod a new one. He just used his setup knowledge. I used a box stock ta05 for many years and did very well with it. Plastic shocks and all. I only upgraded the belts because after a few years the originals wore out. Newer designs aren't necessarily faster, just have better parts support.
Don't believe the hype!
I'd be surprised if Gary at 4seasons wasn't able to order a tc4 for you.
I really have to disagree about the tc4. One of the guys here in the PNW (a REALLY fast guy) used a box stock tc4 to rip everyone in 17.5 and mod a new one. He just used his setup knowledge. I used a box stock ta05 for many years and did very well with it. Plastic shocks and all. I only upgraded the belts because after a few years the originals wore out. Newer designs aren't necessarily faster, just have better parts support.
Don't believe the hype!
#35

yeah I went overboard on my rant about electronics, I realized it was pretty much the same thing back in the day, except with matched nicads and all the stuff you had to do to a brushed motor to make it work good. Im going VTA racing myself after I get my brushless setup in a few weeks. I did notice a lack of mid range chassis, you only have the cheap ones (TC4, Ofna, Sakura) or the crazy expensive ones (TC6.1, TCXX, etc) The one awesome looking chassis that was around $200 (Schumacher Mi1) looks like it is impossible to find.
Spec R R1?
Sakura XI?
All of these are mid range for ~$300. Higher quality, much closer to tc6.1, tcxx, etc but for a mid range price.
#36

locally, we have the following specs/rules:
TT01/TT02 kits only (just recently added the TT02)
Tamiya 101/104/105BK ESC only (usually comes with the kit)
Tamiya Silvercan (Johnsons/Mabuchi, 4 holes not allowed)
55/28 max gearing (for TT01, still figuring out max gearing for TT02)
Open LiPo 2S or 6-cell NiMH/NiCd
Open Tires and Insert
Wheels need to be spoked (no dish wheels allowed)
GT bodies only (race blob shells not allowed)
8-min heats
CF conversion kits are not allowed.
TT01/TT02 kits only (just recently added the TT02)
Tamiya 101/104/105BK ESC only (usually comes with the kit)
Tamiya Silvercan (Johnsons/Mabuchi, 4 holes not allowed)
55/28 max gearing (for TT01, still figuring out max gearing for TT02)
Open LiPo 2S or 6-cell NiMH/NiCd
Open Tires and Insert
Wheels need to be spoked (no dish wheels allowed)
GT bodies only (race blob shells not allowed)
8-min heats
CF conversion kits are not allowed.