Getting people hooked in touring- What chassis?
#16
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)

for me, coming back into the hobby after a 10 year absence (my last TC was a new at the time HPI RS4 pro 3) its not the chassis that is off putting (well over $500 for a "competitive" chassis is a little overboard), it is the cost and complexity of electronics now. Between Lipo's (cheapest pack at my LHS is over $65) and sensored brushless combos (LHS is over $150 for the setup) you already went over the price of the chassis and you have not bought a Lipo charger yet and a 2.4 GHZ radio (I love these compared to the AM radios from back in the day) Maybe you can spec some cheaper equipment and really limit the motors. I mean the 21.5 brushless motors are way faster than the 27T stock motors from back in the day. Plus as a old school guy I have a deep hatred for RTR cars. I like to know what makes them tick and all the little idiosyncrasies that go into each chassis.
Myself, I am setting up a 21.5 spec class racer from a old Yoko chassis to get back into it, I have no interest in running mod or even 17.5 for that matter.
Rant over.
Myself, I am setting up a 21.5 spec class racer from a old Yoko chassis to get back into it, I have no interest in running mod or even 17.5 for that matter.
Rant over.
#17
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)

I think the AE TC4 Club Racer is an excellent choice. USVTA really took off this year at my local track and after also offering open and 17.5 TC most guys are going the VTA route. Most of us are running the TC4 with a couple Xray and HB cars thrown in. The shop sells the club racer kits and parts, and they are only about $150. Guys like to personalize their cars so this base kit roller skips making you buy stuff you don't need. The TC4 is very competitive and race-able. The guys winning the VTA class are running this car. I've even seen it win in open TC.
The other advantages to the TC4 is that parts are easy to find and they are cheap. It is easy to work on and maintain.
I suggest putting a package together using the TC4 Club Racer as the base.
The other advantages to the TC4 is that parts are easy to find and they are cheap. It is easy to work on and maintain.
I suggest putting a package together using the TC4 Club Racer as the base.
#18
Tech Fanatic

tc4..150bucks
justock esc...50bucks
monster lock motor...50bucks
airtronics mx3...110bucks
so around about 350+
or
serpent 411 s
r spec 1 s
will work too
justock esc...50bucks
monster lock motor...50bucks
airtronics mx3...110bucks
so around about 350+
or
serpent 411 s
r spec 1 s
will work too

#19
Tech Addict

for me, coming back into the hobby after a 10 year absence (my last TC was a new at the time HPI RS4 pro 3) its not the chassis that is off putting (well over $500 for a "competitive" chassis is a little overboard), it is the cost and complexity of electronics now. Between Lipo's (cheapest pack at my LHS is over $65) and sensored brushless combos (LHS is over $150 for the setup) you already went over the price of the chassis and you have not bought a Lipo charger yet and a 2.4 GHZ radio (I love these compared to the AM radios from back in the day) Maybe you can spec some cheaper equipment and really limit the motors. I mean the 21.5 brushless motors are way faster than the 27T stock motors from back in the day. Plus as a old school guy I have a deep hatred for RTR cars. I like to know what makes them tick and all the little idiosyncrasies that go into each chassis.
Myself, I am setting up a 21.5 spec class racer from a old Yoko chassis to get back into it, I have no interest in running mod or even 17.5 for that matter.
Rant over.
Myself, I am setting up a 21.5 spec class racer from a old Yoko chassis to get back into it, I have no interest in running mod or even 17.5 for that matter.
Rant over.
Spec 1 S1 chassis: $115
Novak's 25.5 Ballistic/Edge ESC combo: $150
VTA-legal tires: $40
Body: $20
SMC 5000mAh 2-cell LiPo: $30
Spektrum DX3C 2.4Ghz radio: $100
$490 for a complete package. Still less than what I spent on *just* a pan-car oval chassis and tires.
VTA is designed so that you can make older chassis competitive. Then you add a fairly decent charger for about $129 (I have the Thunder Power 610C). Still not too bad.
#20
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)

As an R/C veteran (26+ years in the hobby), I'm going VTA racing.
Spec 1 S1 chassis: $115
Novak's 25.5 Ballistic/Edge ESC combo: $150
VTA-legal tires: $40
Body: $20
SMC 5000mAh 2-cell LiPo: $30
Spektrum DX3C 2.4Ghz radio: $100
$490 for a complete package. Still less than what I spent on *just* a pan-car oval chassis and tires.
VTA is designed so that you can make older chassis competitive. Then you add a fairly decent charger for about $129 (I have the Thunder Power 610C). Still not too bad.
Spec 1 S1 chassis: $115
Novak's 25.5 Ballistic/Edge ESC combo: $150
VTA-legal tires: $40
Body: $20
SMC 5000mAh 2-cell LiPo: $30
Spektrum DX3C 2.4Ghz radio: $100
$490 for a complete package. Still less than what I spent on *just* a pan-car oval chassis and tires.
VTA is designed so that you can make older chassis competitive. Then you add a fairly decent charger for about $129 (I have the Thunder Power 610C). Still not too bad.
#21
Tech Master

Our club uses TT01's (and is now looking at the TT02 as its better) we tried other makes and they just kept breaking. Also beginners are no quicker with a spec-r / mi-1 / TC4. If someone can turn up every week with a car that works and doesn't break they will get into the hobby much quicker than something that is obtuse to set-up or is in bits in the garage.
#22

They're just going to love racing and want the expensive stuff anyway, just buy an xray T4 and done, lol. IMO there's no reason to waste money on the spares for the cheaper cars when the higher priced cars are more durable anyway. Believe it or not when you're done buying all the hop ups for a TC4 your gonna say I could've just spent half that and got a TC6.1. Just my opinion but if your gonna get in the hobby start with the best and grow into it experience wise and if you don't like it someone is always willing to buy a new car in the for sale forums
#23
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)

They're just going to love racing and want the expensive stuff anyway, just buy an xray T4 and done, lol. IMO there's no reason to waste money on the spares for the cheaper cars when the higher priced cars are more durable anyway. Believe it or not when you're done buying all the hop ups for a TC4 your gonna say I could've just spent half that and got a TC6.1. Just my opinion but if your gonna get in the hobby start with the best and grow into it experience wise and if you don't like it someone is always willing to buy a new car in the for sale forums
thats really simple...
its easier to bite off $150 for a semi-OK, piece by piece up gradable chassis than it is to drop $500. You can get a entire competitive spec class setup going for less than just the chassis price of a Xray T4!
#24

I work in a large hobby store in Edmonton Alberta, I love racing touring, and I really like getting new people out to the track. Our local on-road club is boom and has huge turnouts for club races indoors throughout the winter. Tamiya Mini is a good place for people to start, but touring is the next frontier, so what if it wasn't so hard to get into the class? What in the world is out there for new people to run that is actually good?...
...Does anyone know of something in the pipeline that can be a way in for new guys? Or is there some option I'm missing? (it needs to be RTR and be supported by a big distributor) Or are these cars actually better than I think they are?
...Does anyone know of something in the pipeline that can be a way in for new guys? Or is there some option I'm missing? (it needs to be RTR and be supported by a big distributor) Or are these cars actually better than I think they are?
The concept allows for individual hobby shops and distributors worldwide to spec the cars properly for the local racing scene using electronics packages that are economical and fit the class that the car would be racing in.
Ideally, each hobby shop would build RTRs (or race packages) in house using the Club Racer chassis as the base. So in the end they would be selling a VTA, 17.5, DC, Drift, or a spec class car for their own series.
The advantage is that the racer gets exactly the car he needs to race locally in RTR form with nothing to throw away. Selling the items individually means more profit for the hobby shop while at the same time providing more value to the customer.
#27
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)

I intended the TC4 Club Racer to be the car you describe. The choice was to not make it RTR from the factory because this would add to the cost of the vehicle and it would require that some end users still throw away the gear that comes with it (tires that don't work, body that doesn't fit the local class, etc.) and buy something else.
The concept allows for individual hobby shops and distributors worldwide to spec the cars properly for the local racing scene using electronics packages that are economical and fit the class that the car would be racing in.
Ideally, each hobby shop would build RTRs (or race packages) in house using the Club Racer chassis as the base. So in the end they would be selling a VTA, 17.5, DC, Drift, or a spec class car for their own series.
The advantage is that the racer gets exactly the car he needs to race locally in RTR form with nothing to throw away. Selling the items individually means more profit for the hobby shop while at the same time providing more value to the customer.
The concept allows for individual hobby shops and distributors worldwide to spec the cars properly for the local racing scene using electronics packages that are economical and fit the class that the car would be racing in.
Ideally, each hobby shop would build RTRs (or race packages) in house using the Club Racer chassis as the base. So in the end they would be selling a VTA, 17.5, DC, Drift, or a spec class car for their own series.
The advantage is that the racer gets exactly the car he needs to race locally in RTR form with nothing to throw away. Selling the items individually means more profit for the hobby shop while at the same time providing more value to the customer.
#29
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)

To answer an additional poster from above I initially purchased a TC4 for VTA but after reviewing the car in detail felt after buying new shocks, shafts, and other items there was a chance to surpass a TC6/TC6.1 on price not to mention working on a platform designed in 2004 (granted the argument can be said, (e.g. "if it aint broke...) but in the end I believe the better choice was made with the "newer / full upgrade' kit.
The price I paid was $370 and already having good electronics from my F1 cars, the only thing missing was a 25.5T motor and 5000 mah battery.
#30
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)

I'd be surprised if Gary at 4seasons wasn't able to order a tc4 for you.
I really have to disagree about the tc4. One of the guys here in the PNW (a REALLY fast guy) used a box stock tc4 to rip everyone in 17.5 and mod a new one. He just used his setup knowledge. I used a box stock ta05 for many years and did very well with it. Plastic shocks and all. I only upgraded the belts because after a few years the originals wore out. Newer designs aren't necessarily faster, just have better parts support.
Don't believe the hype!