Shock Tower

I just recived a Revtech 17.5T stock spec, and I run it in blinky mode, and with a FRD 3.957.

I just tested it at our track, small and narrow and in 5 minuts, I reached the temp 163F. Is this to much for this motor ?

mkiiina

iTrader: (71)

Seems ok (maybe a little warm). I can swing the temps on my motor by 15+ degrees based on how im driving (hard on the brakes into a corner vs taking a better line and carrying speed).

What's you esc temp at? What's you motor timing at? Ambient temps/fan on the motor?

Shock Tower

I am not sure on the esc temp, has a Tekin RS PRO, and didn't check the temp. The endball timing is as it was from the factory, and our ambient temp is approx 68F, and I have a LRP radical fan mounted on it.

I switched from a Novak Ballistic, where I ran approx 3.7FDR, and the temp was almost the same, but I thought that I had more speed on that one.

trigger

iTrader: (15)

That's temp is fine. When my motor is at its fastest, it'll be around 180.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Was the Novak ballistic with a 12.3mm rotor or a 12.5mm like the Revtech.... Revtech motors like heat....

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Where is the endbell timing set on the motor? Is this in a TC? If you left the timing set at the 0 mark on the endbell, and are geared at 1:3.9, you are likely under geared, and the motor is spending a lot of time wound up really high.

I would probably start with the endbell timing all the way up, geared around 3.85, and go from there.

And no, 180 is not where the motor will be best at. Don't gear for temps, gear for lap times, and then make sure you aren't going over your max temp, which is ~170s. If your best laptimes/performance comes from gearing that brings you up to only 120 degrees, then that's great. You wouldn't then gear up just to get more heat, as your lap times will then suffer.

DanDanDan3

iTrader: (1)

Most guys I race with try not to run the motor more than about ~180

Mr.A Morris

iTrader: (17)

Where do you guys get 180.. he said 160. Turn down the timing just a smidge. Pretty close though IMO.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

We were referring to trigger, post #4

Shock Tower

My endbell timing is set at 0 as from the factory.

What do you mean by 'start with the endbell timing all the way up' ?? Do you mean +or - from 0 deg.

I am running TC carpet.

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

What size is your Track ?.. that is a key factor in timing and gearing starting point.

Shock Tower

I drive on 2 different tracks. The common one is very narrow and short, think the straight is only about 50ft.

i haven't tried the Revtech on the other big track, where the straight is about 80-90ft i think.

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

Short track I would start motor at 2 line before full timing on + side. FDR about 4.15-4.25. Other track I would start 1 line before full timing and FDR of about 3.85-3.95. Always make first run short 3 minutes and check temps.

What you are looking for is a good balance of power from infield to main straight. A good FDR will be when car pulls strong for 3/4 the longest straight away. If your pulling past 3/4 down the main straight your pulling too much gear. Go out in practice and run alone, don't get into a race in hot laps that's what heats and mains are for. Focus on where car is peaking out rpm wise and that should yield point you need to be.

They above should yield good temps and good power. Watch lap times during heats if you see lots of fade adjust gearing as needed.

Hope this helps some..

Shock Tower

Hi John.

So If I unðrstand you right, then on the short track, you will increase the timing, but go down on gearing, and on the large track, you will keep the gearing around the same as i have now, and then almost apply full endbell timing. Will the last surgestion not only give me more heat ? Low gearing and high endbell timing ?

Mayby i am a rookie on this field...

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

Short track 2 lines before full timing is lower timing than 1 line before full timing for larger track.

For the bigger track you will be adding about 2 more teeth to pinion size and 1 more line of timing.

Timing you have now is more suited for Ramming/open speed control.

Your current timing of "0" is prone to really rev up the motor some and can cause excess heat..almost like running a street car a mile down the road in 2nd gear unless you have a FDR matched to keep the RPMs lower.

The 2 settings I gave should get you really close to gear/timing needed.