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Old 06-20-2013, 02:44 PM   #16
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Short track 2 lines before full timing is lower timing than 1 line before full timing for larger track.

For the bigger track you will be adding about 2 more teeth to pinion size and 1 more line of timing.

Timing you have now is more suited for Ramming/open speed control.

Your current timing of "0" is prone to really rev up the motor some and can cause excess heat..almost like running a street car a mile down the road in 2nd gear unless you have a FDR matched to keep the RPMs lower.

The 2 settings I gave should get you really close to gear/timing needed.
I got to try to increase the timing on the short track next week as you said, and see if that makes the temp go down with the same FDR 3.9 as it is now. But I would have thought that increasing the endbell timing, you would get even more speed and heat. And that '0' timing as it was set from the factory, was a low setting without any real timing.
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Old 06-20-2013, 03:49 PM   #17
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I got to try to increase the timing on the short track next week as you said, and see if that makes the temp go down with the same FDR 3.9 as it is now. But I would have thought that increasing the endbell timing, you would get even more speed and heat. And that '0' timing as it was set from the factory, was a low setting without any real timing.

Short track start about 4.15-4.25 FDR as stated below in other post. 3.9 is better starting point for bigger track.
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Old 06-20-2013, 04:00 PM   #18
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160F is cool for a TC...
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:55 PM   #19
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I have a Revtech magzilla that the fan disconnected and temp went to 180*. You would have never known it. Motor stayed strong and fast the whole race!
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:43 PM   #20
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Short track start about 4.15-4.25 FDR as stated below in other post. 3.9 is better starting point for bigger track.

Yes, I get it.
But still, what is the benefit of increasing endbell timing before mechanical gearing (lower FRD) both way I would emagine more heat ?
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Old 06-21-2013, 12:37 AM   #21
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Yes, I get it.
But still, what is the benefit of increasing endbell timing before mechanical gearing (lower FRD) both way I would emagine more heat ?
Timing = RPM, RPM = WIN. Basically you are wanting to get the RPM to it max about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down the longest straight. By starting with max RPM, you then only have to gear for the straight, it becomes a much easier to do as you are only focusing on 1 item, pinion, not multiple items, pinion and timing.

Timing creates heat, gearing also creates heat, with high reving motors timing creates less heat than gearing, where a tall gearing will bog the car down out of corners making more heat. The motor wants to rev, and the freeer you make everything the easier it can do that making it more efficient.

I have an LRP motor that is like this, it is counter intuitive but with that motor, i give it full timing and 5T less in pinion to go faster than my more torqueż motors with higher gearing. It also comes off track after 6m race about 100 Deg C without a fan, does not seem to mind it either, does not fade either. The harder i make it rev the better it seems to go.
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