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Old 02-10-2014, 01:40 AM
  #76  
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6M4gkgAnDQ8

My YRF001 on foams with 21.5

Enjoy!
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Old 02-10-2014, 02:01 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Hugh Jazz
One of them was from a hit. The other two just stripped tightening the diff.
I ran 12th scale for two years and had some big hits but never broke an axel.
hmmm, strange,

the only thing I can suggest is run 3 cone washers if you are not already to place less stress on it.
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Old 02-10-2014, 04:06 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6M4gkgAnDQ8

My YRF001 on foams with 21.5

Enjoy!
very nice

do you use timing ? what is your transmission ratio ?
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Old 02-10-2014, 05:37 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by evochick
hmmm, strange,

the only thing I can suggest is run 3 cone washers if you are not already to place less stress on it.
I had the same issue and cant recall hitting anything. I was thinking about putting a small pin through the axle and threaded rod to keep it from moving. Love this chassis but have not been able to get laps do to things breaking all the time
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Old 02-10-2014, 05:06 PM
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i believe the weight of the steel shaft can make the car have better top end due to the rotating mass??
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:43 PM
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I am really interested to hear what parts people are breaking on their cars,

I seem to have the totally opposite experience to most people here in that my YRF has been totally unbreakable

So far i have only broken 3 items in about 8 months of use,

In 1 big accident i broke an axle and a steering arm, full speed on the straight, just hit a protruding pipe at the wrong angle, my fault for being that wide.

Similar accident to above but only broke a link alloy ball.

I haven’t had any front end parts break on the wide and narrow front end, and the car gets raced every week, so plenty of driving time.
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:39 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by evochick
I am really interested to hear what parts people are breaking on their cars,

I seem to have the totally opposite experience to most people here in that my YRF has been totally unbreakable

So far i have only broken 3 items in about 8 months of use,
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Old 02-11-2014, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by reg
Im am not sure the why the laugh ?

I am not a perfect A grade driver. I hit things all the time. Yet to only break 3 parts in 8 months of solid driving ?

Shesh
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Old 02-11-2014, 03:22 AM
  #84  
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Quick question can the tamiya f104 front and rear wings be made to fit the yokomo? I like the look of the new style f1s but like the chassis of the yokomo. Thanks
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Old 02-11-2014, 04:17 AM
  #85  
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As evochick mentioned in her earlier posts, yes any rear wing will work. But, only Yokomo and Kyosho front wings will work. I highly suggest the Kyosho front wing. It's wide and you can choose between two different types of downforce.

The kit is well worth the money and the parts and finish are great.
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Old 02-11-2014, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
As evochick mentioned in her earlier posts, yes any rear wing will work. But, only Yokomo and Kyosho front wings will work. I highly suggest the Kyosho front wing. It's wide and you can choose between two different types of downforce.

The kit is well worth the money and the parts and finish are great.
I put a Tamiya front wing on with zero problems, not sure why u think they cant be used
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Old 02-11-2014, 04:52 AM
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My mistake, she mentioned f103 wouldn't work. So, I presume you have a f104 wing bolted on. The beauty of kyosho wings is that you can replace the lexan wing once it gets too beat up. Also, you can paint it to match your paint scheme.
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:56 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by evochick
looking at the photo's you dont have any where enough spacers to run F104 tyres (narrow front end)

how much ride height are you running ?????
Hi Beth, thank you for pointing out more spacers are needed. Spacers were added and now it has 4.5mm spacing. This also fixed my issue with grub screws being too long, these are now set to 5.5mm showing out of the top of the bulkhead, and they fit perfectly.

Ride height, I don't know, haven't driven it yet. I was going to start at 6mm front and 7mm rear like my F104v2 Pro, but I'm open to suggestion. I'm new to pan car setup and have a lot to learn. We have a bumpy track - cracked asphalt parking lot with asphalt sealer to smooth it out. I've been referring to your setup sheet as a guide, and was going to start with 5mm front/rear. Any thoughts?


Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
First of all, those grub screws are meant to adjust the suspension arms up and down travel. The grub screws limit the movement of the carbon arms. Not for ride height.

Ride height can be adjusted by adding or removing spacers from the main bulkhead screws, or flipping the spacers around on the kingpin.

If you're running narrow then it should be 5.5 mm measured from the top.
Thank you Edward2003! I had it all wrong, and this really cleared up my understanding of how to adjust ride height.
Attached Thumbnails Yokomo F1 YRF-img_2402.jpg  
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Old 02-15-2014, 12:53 AM
  #89  
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For clarification: So can you use tamiya F104 front wings with little or no modification?
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Old 02-15-2014, 03:32 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
For clarification: So can you use tamiya F104 front wings with little or no modification?
yes

here so there is photo proof so everyone can stop asking,
F2012 front and rear wing fitted, no major modification needed to the wing mount, just a small amount needs to be removed at the back of the front wing, otherwise a good fit.




Trying the kingpin front end tomorrow for the first time

Beth.
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