Yokomo F1 YRF
#196
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
I am just completing the build. It is set up as per the instructions. I used 40 wt oil in the shocks. I have no tuning parts other than tires too. (hard and med front and soft and super soft rears) I can use radio settings to lessen the steering etc plus tires to increase or decrease traction. Thanks a lot for helping too !!
#197
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
I'm getting ready to pick up the YRF-001W and would appreciate some advice regarding the parts that I would need/want for rubber tires in the narrow configuration setup.
1) It appears that the kingpin conversion is a good to have for rubber tires and would also convert the front to the Narrow configuration. Is there anything I need to get (i.e. bulkhead) to convert a stock W car to a N?
2) I'm also looking at the steering bell crank conversion. Does anyone have any feedback on this upgrade?
3) What body is preferred for rubber tires on a high bite indoor carpet track.
4) Other then the ceramic balls is there anything else I need to get for the ball differential?
1) It appears that the kingpin conversion is a good to have for rubber tires and would also convert the front to the Narrow configuration. Is there anything I need to get (i.e. bulkhead) to convert a stock W car to a N?
2) I'm also looking at the steering bell crank conversion. Does anyone have any feedback on this upgrade?
3) What body is preferred for rubber tires on a high bite indoor carpet track.
4) Other then the ceramic balls is there anything else I need to get for the ball differential?
#198
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
I'm getting ready to pick up the YRF-001W and would appreciate some advice regarding the parts that I would need/want for rubber tires in the narrow configuration setup.
1) It appears that the kingpin conversion is a good to have for rubber tires and would also convert the front to the Narrow configuration. Is there anything I need to get (i.e. bulkhead) to convert a stock W car to a N?
Make sure you get the correct kingpin conversion kit, as they sell both the wide and narrow version. It uses the same bulkheads so nothing else is needed, I think I purchased some slightly longer mounting screws to give me a little more ride height adjustment
2) I'm also looking at the steering bell crank conversion. Does anyone have any feedback on this upgrade?
It is a little better then kit setup, but I still found the best steering with a laydown servo and the longest servo horn you can find.
3) What body is preferred for rubber tires on a high bite indoor carpet track.
I always found body to be personal preference, but low nose bodies in theory will give you a little more downforce
4) Other then the ceramic balls is there anything else I need to get for the ball differential?
I found running 3 thrust washers in the following configuration )() made adjustment a little easier and makes the thrust bearing last longer
1) It appears that the kingpin conversion is a good to have for rubber tires and would also convert the front to the Narrow configuration. Is there anything I need to get (i.e. bulkhead) to convert a stock W car to a N?
Make sure you get the correct kingpin conversion kit, as they sell both the wide and narrow version. It uses the same bulkheads so nothing else is needed, I think I purchased some slightly longer mounting screws to give me a little more ride height adjustment
2) I'm also looking at the steering bell crank conversion. Does anyone have any feedback on this upgrade?
It is a little better then kit setup, but I still found the best steering with a laydown servo and the longest servo horn you can find.
3) What body is preferred for rubber tires on a high bite indoor carpet track.
I always found body to be personal preference, but low nose bodies in theory will give you a little more downforce
4) Other then the ceramic balls is there anything else I need to get for the ball differential?
I found running 3 thrust washers in the following configuration )() made adjustment a little easier and makes the thrust bearing last longer
hope this helps
#200
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Ok so heres how it went: the car had a couple issues. Firstly it pushed which might be because of the wide front end. Second, when I punched it the car would pull badly to the left. Not sure why. One thing that might contribute to the problems was the rear axle clamp kept coming loose. I cranked it down as much as I could yet it kept backing off. I am going to wrap some tape around the axle before I run it again. Please let me know what you recommend. Fyi I had 40 wt oil in both shocks, med front s soft rear tires, wide front end and the front was set up as per the instructions. Thanks
#201
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Ok so heres how it went: the car had a couple issues. Firstly it pushed which might be because of the wide front end. Second, when I punched it the car would pull badly to the left. Not sure why. One thing that might contribute to the problems was the rear axle clamp kept coming loose. I cranked it down as much as I could yet it kept backing off. I am going to wrap some tape around the axle before I run it again. Please let me know what you recommend. Fyi I had 40 wt oil in both shocks, med front s soft rear tires, wide front end and the front was set up as per the instructions. Thanks
With that rear diff coming lose, there was a kit with an upgraded screw, which you are a or to tighten further. It is a design flaw and there needs to be an upgrade part... I have been told the Top axle clamp works better as its not as solid as the kit one and can be clamped onto the axle with less force
#202
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
With the clamp nut make sure you grease it up as well, and use a good quality hex wrench to tighten it down. The biggest issue I had was over time, say 6-8 months of use it would squash the carbon axle to the point where it would no longer tighten, so you would have to replace the axle.
Also if you are using F104 fronts the narrow front end gives much better steering. Also less front droop will help with the pushing.
Beth.
Also if you are using F104 fronts the narrow front end gives much better steering. Also less front droop will help with the pushing.
Beth.
#204
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Jamminjim -
I ended up buying the steel drive axle and haven't had an issue with the rear hub coming off. For extra security you can look into scuffing the holding surface for added security. Yes, the steel axle weighs a little more, you wont notice an decrease in performance.
Also, evochicks suggestions work as well.
I ended up buying the steel drive axle and haven't had an issue with the rear hub coming off. For extra security you can look into scuffing the holding surface for added security. Yes, the steel axle weighs a little more, you wont notice an decrease in performance.
Also, evochicks suggestions work as well.
#205
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Ok so heres how it went: the car had a couple issues. Firstly it pushed which might be because of the wide front end. Second, when I punched it the car would pull badly to the left. Not sure why. One thing that might contribute to the problems was the rear axle clamp kept coming loose. I cranked it down as much as I could yet it kept backing off. I am going to wrap some tape around the axle before I run it again. Please let me know what you recommend. Fyi I had 40 wt oil in both shocks, med front s soft rear tires, wide front end and the front was set up as per the instructions. Thanks
Entry? Mid? Exit of the corner?
What is your exact setup? Give us all the details, even down to the washers under the shock.
Measure the track width for front and rear. How wide is the front compared to the rear? A good starting point would be to keep them the same i.e 190 mm for front and rear.
Last edited by EDWARD2003; 03-10-2015 at 12:08 AM.
#207
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Also, I would take out the 1 shim under rear shock mounting position and look at raising the the rear position up to 8 or 9 mm.
#209
Tech Adept