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Old 06-03-2013, 01:51 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
yes 43 boost 22 turbo motor is at 0 deg timing,gm race 13.5t
Ok, so first thing I would do, is gear up, and turn off all boost (change to blinky mode settings and gearing) and see if you get the same thing. I bet you it's all the dynamic timing you are running.
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:09 PM   #17
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I run this esc and have the same problem

So basically this esc is fundamentally flawed in a touring car?? - I used to run a Speed passion reventon pro that was much better for brakes.. Orion maybe smoother for power but brakes more important on a touring car!

Funny but one of the quickest guys at my track runs the same esc and has also mentioned he feels like he has no brakes sometimes.

I run drag brake at 90% and use that as my instant break.. Amazingly going from full throttle to full brake instantly will take longer to stop than using drag brake despite having bbrake 100% drag brake90%. Staggered they haven't fixed thus
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:31 PM   #18
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Ok, so first thing I would do, is gear up, and turn off all boost (change to blinky mode settings and gearing) and see if you get the same thing. I bet you it's all the dynamic timing you are running.
all very well but i dont run in a blinky class so id be at an instant disadvantage,thats not the cure,i just want the car to stop when i want it to,not when it can be bothered
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:33 PM   #19
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I run this esc and have the same problem

So basically this esc is fundamentally flawed in a touring car?? - I used to run a Speed passion reventon pro that was much better for brakes.. Orion maybe smoother for power but brakes more important on a touring car!

Funny but one of the quickest guys at my track runs the same esc and has also mentioned he feels like he has no brakes sometimes.

I run drag brake at 90% and use that as my instant break.. Amazingly going from full throttle to full brake instantly will take longer to stop than using drag brake despite having bbrake 100% drag brake90%. Staggered they haven't fixed thus
ive tried to use drag brake in the past but cant get on with it,the track i race at have a few sections where you need to roll through and im no good at holding the throttle open just a bit
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:43 PM   #20
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I have found you need to have the initial brake set at 40% for the brakes to work with our 10.5 motor class. The other thing that makes a bi difference is the motor. With a Speed Passion there is practically no brakes, LRP had some brakes and the Trackstar has awesome brakes. However my 4.5t SP has good brakes and I usually have to dial them back to 0% initial and about 70% total.
Before I got the R10, I had a Reventon Pro and I found it was much worse when it came to braking.
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:45 PM   #21
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all very well but i dont run in a blinky class so id be at an instant disadvantage,thats not the cure,i just want the car to stop when i want it to,not when it can be bothered
I wasn't advising that you go compete that way... just program it that way to see if all the dynamic timing is what is having an adverse affect on the braking.

How about this. In your video, you are going from full throttle pull... right to brakes. What if you go from full throttle, to letting it roll for .5 seconds in neutral, and THEN hit full brakes.

I bet the dynamic timing is still set full advanced and that is why it can't stop the motor. Other ESCs maybe do a better job of setting the dynamic timing back to 0 before it tries to apply the brakes.

Im just speculating of course. It's why I suggested it as just something to try. I only run blinky, and I have never seen this issue before.
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Old 06-04-2013, 12:57 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
It's basically the same issue you get with the v2 Hobbywings (Orion is Hobbywing V2 hardware), there is a delay in the brakes when going straight to them which is not present if you pause and then brake.

Hobbywing have (somewhat) addressed this with the newest blinky software but I don't believe that is an option for the Orion speedo.
Strangely I have no issues with the brake with the 1-2S and the 2-3S Speedo. I use them in 13,5T Blinky, Boosted 10,5T and Modified. with Modified if I set the brakes at full the car just throws out an anchor...
Are you sure the (motor) sensor or cable is all right? I normally drive with 5% Drag Brake in Boosted or Mod.

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Old 06-04-2013, 03:32 AM   #23
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Strangely I have no issues with the brake with the 1-2S and the 2-3S Speedo. I use them in 13,5T Blinky, Boosted 10,5T and Modified. with Modified if I set the brakes at full the car just throws out an anchor...
Are you sure the (motor) sensor or cable is all right? I normally drive with 5% Drag Brake in Boosted or Mod.

Regards Robert
Not wishing to clog up an Orion thread but there are lots and lots of posts in the Hobbywing thread about weak or inconsistent brakes, lots of well meaning solutions, lots of denials of there being a problem, but none of them have given me the braking performance I would expect from an ESC. It's an experience shared by many people I talk to trackside. I suspect it is a fundamental hardware issue because it seems worse under load than on the bench.

To put it in context, my outdoor club is the Cotswold track in the UK which is quite unusual in that it has 2 or 3 big straight-line stops and braking is extremely important. 90% of the other tracks I race at make few demands on the brakes so you don't notice the issues.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:22 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
Not wishing to clog up an Orion thread but there are lots and lots of posts in the Hobbywing thread about weak or inconsistent brakes, lots of well meaning solutions, lots of denials of there being a problem, but none of them have given me the braking performance I would expect from an ESC. It's an experience shared by many people I talk to trackside. I suspect it is a fundamental hardware issue because it seems worse under load than on the bench.

To put it in context, my outdoor club is the Cotswold track in the UK which is quite unusual in that it has 2 or 3 big straight-line stops and braking is extremely important. 90% of the other tracks I race at make few demands on the brakes so you don't notice the issues.
Funny you say about cotswolds my reventons have both lost brakes while at cotswolds but i always seem to go back to orion,has best brakes i think car pulls to a dead stop with it.
I was there last weekend and in one qualifier it felt strange then seemed ok,until final when nothing so had to back off throttle sooner and pray car turned in but cotswolds you do need some brakes there.
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Old 06-05-2013, 03:37 PM   #25
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im hoping my brakes will be a tad better as ive removed 90gm of excess weight,but i did turn up the initial to 40% and it improved slightly
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Old 06-05-2013, 04:50 PM   #26
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it's the boost and turbo, tekins used to have this problem, then they fixed it with an update. When you are all full boost/turbo the motor has less brakes, it has to boost/turbo the timing down and then you get more brakes. that's why you feel a delay.

If you are running mod just run more motor and no boost/turbo.
If you are running ramping 17.5, well, there is a reason tekin completely dominated this class out of existence
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