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New Novak Brusless System

New Novak Brusless System

Old 09-17-2006, 01:04 PM
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Thanks!
I'll try cutting that one. If it doesn't work I can always solder it back together!
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Old 09-17-2006, 01:38 PM
  #1457  
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Blue wire (pin #5) is the temp wire. Reference: ROAR rules.
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Old 09-17-2006, 01:55 PM
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I've been running a 4300 with a Sphere Comp. This weekend I was running back to back 5 min classes. I figured the esc would shut down if there was a problem with the temps. In the second race my car slowed way far down and then just wouldn't move. There was a bad smell coming from the motor. When I temped it it was 256* F. That was with one fan blowing on it, indoors with temps in the 90's. It should have shut down before it got that hot, shouldn't it have?
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Old 09-17-2006, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
I've been running a 4300 with a Sphere Comp. This weekend I was running back to back 5 min classes. I figured the esc would shut down if there was a problem with the temps. In the second race my car slowed way far down and then just wouldn't move. There was a bad smell coming from the motor. When I temped it it was 256* F. That was with one fan blowing on it, indoors with temps in the 90's. It should have shut down before it got that hot, shouldn't it have?
This is EXACTLY the same thing that happened to one of our guys running his 4300 with a Sphere. It ran 'till it got to 250 plus, then slowed down almost to a stop (but not a shutdown). I thought maybe it was his motor, but I'm beginning to wonder if the Sphere even has a thermal shutdown for the motor?

I have a theory, and maybe one of the motor experts can come in and clear this up. I think that the weaker the magnets in the rotor, the more RPMs a motor will generate, but also the hotter it will get. It seems like what happens is that the Sphere doesn't shutdown, letting the motor get too hot, and progressively weakening the magnet in the rotor. As this process continues race after race, and people keep gearing up thinking they've got more since it's not shutting off, the magnets get weaker until the thing finally gets so hot is damages the stator (or something) and stops running. That seems to be right around 250 degrees.
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Old 09-17-2006, 02:32 PM
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For what it's worth, the motor runs massively cooler with the sintered rotor than the stock one or the updated one. I think it might be slower, though. You can definitely give it more gear without it getting hot. I haven't been able to get it over 130 degrees, and my rollout was nearly 33MM.
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Old 09-17-2006, 02:56 PM
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Holland... try putting a fan on the esc. That's the most likely reason for your thermal shutdown.

LRP Sphere doesn't have a thermal shutdown feature. So that's why it didn't shutdown for thermal.

Paul
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:39 PM
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The Sphere doesn't have one at all? Not for the ESC or the motor? Really? That kind of makes it unfair in competition for guys that don't mind burning up rotors.

Originally Posted by Tubaboy
Holland... try putting a fan on the esc. That's the most likely reason for your thermal shutdown.

LRP Sphere doesn't have a thermal shutdown feature. So that's why it didn't shutdown for thermal.

Paul
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Old 09-17-2006, 05:18 PM
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I haven't tried running the motor again yet, but the shaft is very resistant to spinning compared to the original. I had the updated endbell if that means anything. I'll have to pull it apart and see whats wrong.
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Old 09-17-2006, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by LeoChan
Hi All :
Do you know If use 3.5R or 4.5R in Cyclone use which gear ratio ?

Thanks!
for the Cyclone you need to put a 110 spur if you are going to run the 3.5
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Old 09-17-2006, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
I've been running a 4300 with a Sphere Comp. This weekend I was running back to back 5 min classes. I figured the esc would shut down if there was a problem with the temps. In the second race my car slowed way far down and then just wouldn't move. There was a bad smell coming from the motor. When I temped it it was 256* F. That was with one fan blowing on it, indoors with temps in the 90's. It should have shut down before it got that hot, shouldn't it have?
anything over 200 degrees and you might have melted a rotor.the new sintered rotors can take far more heat and do run cooler as well.
Be blessed
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Old 09-17-2006, 08:31 PM
  #1466  
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I've used the LRP Sphere Comp with IB4200s and Novak 4.5, 5.5 and 6.5. I've run all motors with the new sintered rotor. The sintered rotor does run cooler (maybe 10 degrees on average) with the same gearing, which does allow you to gear differently. The track I tested on certainly wasn't big enough for the 4.5 to strech out completely.

I haven't tested the sintered rotors yet with a GTB for temp comparison.
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Old 09-17-2006, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
The Sphere doesn't have one at all? Not for the ESC or the motor? Really? That kind of makes it unfair in competition for guys that don't mind burning up rotors.

Eh, no different then somebody with a 6 turn that doesn't mind torching a motor every run. *shrug*

That's why I race off-road!!

Paul
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Tubaboy
Holland... try putting a fan on the esc. That's the most likely reason for your thermal shutdown.

LRP Sphere doesn't have a thermal shutdown feature. So that's why it didn't shutdown for thermal.

Paul
I have the Novak ESC, it comes standard with a fan.
The ESC is not hot at all (40 degrees Celcius). It is the Motor that's overtemping (80 degrees celcius).
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Old 09-17-2006, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Tubaboy
Holland... try putting a fan on the esc. That's the most likely reason for your thermal shutdown.

LRP Sphere doesn't have a thermal shutdown feature. So that's why it didn't shutdown for thermal.

Paul
Interesting... 4 weeks ago i was racing with the guy who was running Sphere comp + 4star.. He was shutting down every run Just like me with Novak.

I still believe there is a termo sensor in the motor that causes shutdowns, it's just funny that all sensor wires on LRP are black, so you can't cut the blue one
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Old 09-17-2006, 11:30 PM
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Pin #5 is the blue ("Temp Control") wire. Check out Roar Rule 8.7.5.3 (page 40 something) for details.

I've never had an overtemp (motor or ESC) with my LRP sphere comp. But, I have had some problems due to poor fitting of the hall sensor cable to the ESC. My fault - didn't seat the connector correctly.

I have had a GTB shutdown, due to high motor temp. It was crazy hot, I was running a 4.5 (before the new (illegal) sintered rotor was available) with some tall gearing on a large 1/8 scale track. But that day the nobody could keep much on the track. Mod motors were almost one use. A must to trim the comm and replace the brush, every heat. I just geared down my 4.5 and I was all set for the weekend.
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