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New Novak Brusless System

New Novak Brusless System

Old 08-28-2006, 06:41 AM
  #1396  
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Anyone running the 13.5 in stock? How does it run against the brushed cars? Any problems with it?
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Old 08-28-2006, 08:36 AM
  #1397  
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Originally Posted by tarheelquality
Anyone running the 13.5 in stock? How does it run against the brushed cars? Any problems with it?
I've been running it the past few weeks. It's real close, and I can't notice a huge advantage or disadvantage with it. If it's undergeared too much, you'll notice the car pulls out of the corners harder than a brushed motor, but will generally lag on the straights. That motor wants a lot of gear... a LOT.
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Old 08-28-2006, 09:00 AM
  #1398  
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
for the 4.5 you need to be between 9.75 and a 10.25 fdr, Im not sure how your radio is set but I have way too much brake, I have to turn it down on the radio to keep the wheels from locking up. I would try to set the esc back your radio.

9,75-10,25 is not really OK for THAT track (it was international race abroad anyway).

The track (as i've said) is REALLY huge. They had even largescale (1:5) running there.

The radio/setup thing is OK.
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Old 08-28-2006, 09:05 AM
  #1399  
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
Marcos - I think he is on a big European track. They have to gear that high to keep up and since they never really slow down they can run it.
You're absolutely right about that.

With the sintered magnet its almost not necessary to temp the motor anymore. The sintered mag is just fine at temps 100 deg F over where the older motors would thermal.
I'm not sure the countries i visit allow it... Anyway - i guess it's my next NECESSARY purchase, as i really can't racee this system on a bigger track.

Lokanas - If you have thermaled your 4.5 a few times you will need a new rotor. When they overheat the magnet gets weak. You notice this mostly as weak brakes. The weaker magnets make the motor draw more amps, run hotter and thermal cut faster. A new rotor will get your speed, power and brakes back. If your club will let you run it get the new sintered rotor. This rotor is much stronger physically, magnetically and will not suffer from the issues you are having now.
I believe it is so, but the most funny thing is - it NEVER had braking power from the very first run (actually this race was the very first for me with this system).

And... I still don't feel noticeable power decrease.

Anyway, thanks for your suggestions guys! I'll try the sintered rotor - i believe it's the solution. I hope it'll be legal, otherwise the system will be useless during races like this one
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Old 08-28-2006, 05:17 PM
  #1400  
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Just ordered me the Brushless system after watching my friends sedan run at this track mostly for nitro. It ran roughly 5 mph slower on the straight compared to the nitro sedans with his 4.5 but his infield was faster so lap times were pretty much identical.
Attached Thumbnails New Novak Brusless System-revrace.jpg   New Novak Brusless System-straightaway.jpg  
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Old 08-28-2006, 05:26 PM
  #1401  
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When running the old rotor, it felt to me that letting the car coast for just a split second before applying the brakes helped a lot.
With the new rotor, the brakes are much more crisp and linear...they feel awesome!
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Old 08-29-2006, 04:14 AM
  #1402  
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Hi Guys.

I just got the new 3.5R and woundering what to gear it at.
I run on a fairly small tight track with medium sized straights.
With a 8x1 i usally run about 9.1-1 and with a 7x1 9.8-1
So if anyone could give me some tips on gearing that would be great.

Thanks
Andy.
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Old 08-29-2006, 06:58 AM
  #1403  
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Originally Posted by Andy__+
Hi Guys.

I just got the new 3.5R and woundering what to gear it at.
I run on a fairly small tight track with medium sized straights.
With a 8x1 i usally run about 9.1-1 and with a 7x1 9.8-1
So if anyone could give me some tips on gearing that would be great.

Thanks
Andy.
propably around a 10.75
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Old 08-29-2006, 06:04 PM
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Hmmmm... I'm heading to the track today to try some new gearing.

Lots of guys around these parts have apparently been running their Novak much much lower than the recommended and still making runtime. Talk of 4.5's running around 8.7 on tightish technical tracks, and around 9 on the smallest tracks in the world. (Exaggeration yes.. but still very very tight)

I found with the 5.5 it thermalled on anything less than the recommended gearing on a technical medium track. It just didn't make runtime. Not wanting to cook my rotor, I thought I'd stick to the recommended, and am running 9.9FDR on a large track..

Will try going down to 9.5 today.. or lower. Any thoughts guys?

There's a 3.5 in the shops here for $200AUD - around $152USD. The speed is temtping. But it's awfully hard to support your LHS when the prices are that high though. How much are they in Nth America?! Like 80 bucks!
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Old 08-29-2006, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by AngryAsian
Hmmmm... I'm heading to the track today to try some new gearing.

Lots of guys around these parts have apparently been running their Novak much much lower than the recommended and still making runtime. Talk of 4.5's running around 8.7 on tightish technical tracks, and around 9 on the smallest tracks in the world. (Exaggeration yes.. but still very very tight)

I found with the 5.5 it thermalled on anything less than the recommended gearing on a technical medium track. It just didn't make runtime. Not wanting to cook my rotor, I thought I'd stick to the recommended, and am running 9.9FDR on a large track..

Will try going down to 9.5 today.. or lower. Any thoughts guys?

There's a 3.5 in the shops here for $200AUD - around $152USD. The speed is temtping. But it's awfully hard to support your LHS when the prices are that high though. How much are they in Nth America?! Like 80 bucks!

I ran a 10.25 with with the 4.5. the 3.5 I got it for $90.00
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Old 08-29-2006, 11:00 PM
  #1406  
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I put the sintered rotor in my 4300 tonight. I geared it at nearly 33mm rollout and it never broke 120 degrees. I think that gearing was too high, but I can't tell for sure.

Also, a guy showed up with a new 4300, and it had updated solder tabs. Looks like Novak snuck that update into the latest batch of 4300's, which is super cool. Still had the SS rotor and endbell though.

The sintered rotor is cool. The car feels a lot more like a brushed car in terms of drag brake, and the breaks work really well. Plus, it just doesn't get hot. I didn't notice any significant performance benefit, aside from not thermaling when I gear up.
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Old 08-30-2006, 09:14 AM
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Hmmmm that's interesting...

I was pondering whether to get the sintered rotor.

As for gearing - I found the lower gearing to be better. Even on the large track, there's no room to stretch the legs. That motor really revs.
There was a guy running foams and a 5.5R with Lipo, another 4.5 geared at around 11 and some nitro guys, and the car was definatey THE fastest on the back straight.

Even ran with the Lipo for a good 8mins with my performance gradually dropping as the electrics and motor heated up. The NiMH also did their slow decline, whilst he managed to get consistent power all the way.

A 5.5 running Lipo is just as fast as a 4.5 with unpeaked but fully charged batts (IB 3800 - zapped, unmatched but around 5 runs old).
Peaked and hot off the charger, the 4.5 still pulls away clearly.

Lower gearing just resulted in slower acceleration and a slight "wind up" feeling. Not sure how the local guys get on with their low 8...FDR. I don't really see the point unless you want to sacrifice heat generation, for a more mellow acceleration out of corners??

Marcos - how much of a jump is the 3.5 motor? I might sneak one in for when the Lipo guy buys a 4.5 It'll be a laugh!
Is it worth the spend over the 4.5? Or is it just unuseable?
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Old 08-30-2006, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by AngryAsian
Hmmmm that's interesting...

I was pondering whether to get the sintered rotor.

As for gearing - I found the lower gearing to be better. Even on the large track, there's no room to stretch the legs. That motor really revs.
There was a guy running foams and a 5.5R with Lipo, another 4.5 geared at around 11 and some nitro guys, and the car was definatey THE fastest on the back straight.

Even ran with the Lipo for a good 8mins with my performance gradually dropping as the electrics and motor heated up. The NiMH also did their slow decline, whilst he managed to get consistent power all the way.

A 5.5 running Lipo is just as fast as a 4.5 with unpeaked but fully charged batts (IB 3800 - zapped, unmatched but around 5 runs old).
Peaked and hot off the charger, the 4.5 still pulls away clearly.

Lower gearing just resulted in slower acceleration and a slight "wind up" feeling. Not sure how the local guys get on with their low 8...FDR. I don't really see the point unless you want to sacrifice heat generation, for a more mellow acceleration out of corners??

Marcos - how much of a jump is the 3.5 motor? I might sneak one in for when the Lipo guy buys a 4.5 It'll be a laugh!
Is it worth the spend over the 4.5? Or is it just unuseable?
Ill find out this weekend but im sure it will be too much , Im going to try it with 5 and 4 cells to see how it is.
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Old 08-31-2006, 02:55 PM
  #1409  
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Im running a 5.5 in my BJ4 and Im wondering if it's normal for the motor to studder when your pack dumps. I was running my packs till they dumped during practice and while it was running it was fine, but when the packs dumped it would studder on the throttle, meaning it would be like the motor was being powered then for a split second it turned off or the brakes were applied then powered again. This would happen several times continuously. The packs had dumped to the point where I wouldnt continue to run them, I just wanted to get the car back to me so that I could take it off the track. Im wondering it this is normal. This only happened when a load was applied on the motor. When I took the car off the track (wheels in the air) and hit the throttle it was fine, no studdering. I am running 25% drag brake, if that has anything to do with it.

Just thought of this right now: Im running a Futaba 3pk and I think I may have the battery failsafe activated, so mabey that's it, the voltage to the reciever gets too low and it shuts off and then comes back on when the voltage rebounds. Although I think it can run on 4.8 volts so that seems unlikely.
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Old 08-31-2006, 03:02 PM
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Try putting a cap in a spare reciever slot.
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