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Old 07-11-2007, 11:57 AM   #2386
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Depending on the track, we were starting out at about 2.60 in 12th with the 13.5 & sintered.

Just run it for about 5 minutes and see how hot it gets. If it's really hot or it doesn't have enough punch gear down and try again. I usually do a shorter practice run for the first run at a new track because I don't like thermalling the motor.

How much gear you can pull will partly depend on how well your car runs in the corners.
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:55 PM   #2387
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Thanks for the feedback.

So would 2.75 for a 10.5 be a little heavy ??

Jacko
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:29 PM   #2388
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I may need to post this in a different thread, but I think this is a good place to start...

I've been racing my XXX-S locally with a GTB/13.5(bonded) setup. I had all the usual issues -- ran too hot until I geared down to around 6.2 FDR with rubber tires and finally got the temps down to around 150-160 (90+ F degree weather)...

SO - Tonight I replaced the rotor with a sintered rotor... (I've worked with brushed motors for 18 years or so, and I'm spoiled with having my Turbo Dyno 45 to allow me to test motors, etc.) When I first tested the converted motor (ONLY on the workbench so far) -- I thought I'd done something wrong... It sounded so SLOW compared to the way the bonded rotor sounded... Fully installed in the car, I realize it's working fine, but MAN! it sure is different! Before, the drag brakes (even manually applied brakes) were WEAK -- drag brake was almost unnoticable! NOW - ZAP! it appears to act almost like a brushed motor...

In reading about gearing recommendations, I always thought the sintered rotor versions "allowed" taller gearing -- now I am starting to think they MUST HAVE taller gearing to achieve the same speed...?

I'm guessing I will need to go from 6.2 FDR (bonded) to around 5.0 FDR (sintered) for our relatively small parking lot track with rubber tires...?

I won't get to track test until Sunday at the next HobbyTown races, so I want to make sure I'm understanding this right...?

Your thoughts?
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Last edited by tfrahm; 07-11-2007 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 07-11-2007, 11:08 PM   #2389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfrahm View Post
I may need to post this in a different thread, but I think this is a good place to start...

I've been racing my XXX-S locally with a GTB/13.5(bonded) setup. I had all the usual issues -- ran too hot until I geared down to around 6.2 FDR with rubber tires and finally got the temps down to around 150-160 (90+ F degree weather)...

SO - Tonight I replaced the rotor with a sintered rotor... (I've worked with brushed motors for 18 years or so, and I'm spoiled with having my Turbo Dyno 45 to allow me to test motors, etc.) When I first tested the converted motor (ONLY on the workbench so far) -- I thought I'd done something wrong... It sounded so SLOW compared to the way the bonded rotor sounded... Fully installed in the car, I realize it's working fine, but MAN! it sure is different! Before, the drag brakes (even manually applied brakes) were WEAK -- drag brake was almost unnoticable! NOW - ZAP! it appears to act almost like a brushed motor...

In reading about gearing recommendations, I always thought the sintered rotor versions "allowed" taller gearing -- now I am starting to think they MUST HAVE taller gearing to achieve the same speed...?

I'm guessing I will need to go from 6.2 FDR (bonded) to around 5.0 FDR (sintered) for our relatively small parking lot track with rubber tires...?

I won't get to track test until Sunday at the next HobbyTown races, so I want to make sure I'm understanding this right...?

Your thoughts?
Sounds about right to me, & it's not your imagination, the motor does lose some rpm with the sintered rotor, but just picks up a LOT more torque in return. Now, if you leave gearing alone, it'll still run ok, but as you noticed, it won't rev much, but once you gear up(& from a 6.2 to a 5.0 sounds pretty close to right to me, that's about what I do at my local track) it'll come alive. Just start at maybe 5.5 & start slowly gearing taller till you feel it's topping out where you want(& I suspect 5.0 is about where you'll end up).....
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Old 07-12-2007, 12:06 AM   #2390
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13.5's with sintered rotors like a TALL gear. In Omaha at teh carpet challenge (indoor in NE in the spring. 78 degrees indoors) we were running them as high as 4.3 FDR on rubber tires. But like Bob said, start around a 5 and don't be afraid to gear up (if you can!)
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Old 07-12-2007, 12:57 AM   #2391
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Hey guys something just happend when i turned on my rc.

I seen sparks and some smoke from the GTB and the car was acting erratic so i immediately disconnected the battery. The GTB was a bit warm as well as the battery and some wires, battery just came off charge.

I have a Spectrum GTB Novak 4.5R and a Team Orion 4800Lipo.
Its only been run like 3 times.

Any help is appreciated.

Last edited by Peter_PaP; 07-12-2007 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 07-12-2007, 05:58 AM   #2392
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Thanks for the responses. I knew stronger magnets in a brushed motor caused a loss of RPM and gain in torque, but the HUGE change in the 13.5 really surprised me...

I'll run it Sunday and test it out...
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Old 07-12-2007, 07:31 AM   #2393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_PaP View Post
Hey guys something just happend when i turned on my rc.

I seen sparks and some smoke from the GTB and the car was acting erratic so i immediately disconnected the battery. The GTB was a bit warm as well as the battery and some wires, battery just came off charge.

I have a Spectrum GTB Novak 4.5R and a Team Orion 4800Lipo.
Its only been run like 3 times.

Any help is appreciated.

check the wires on the motor tab are not flayed and touching each other.
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Old 07-12-2007, 07:40 AM   #2394
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.

Last edited by Peter_PaP; 07-12-2007 at 07:42 AM. Reason: double
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Old 07-12-2007, 07:41 AM   #2395
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Ok form what i can see they are fine but ill re solder them and clean it up more. Do you think there is any damage to anything? My GTB looks abit sagged in one corner ill post some pics once i get my imageshack working.
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Old 07-12-2007, 07:46 AM   #2396
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just send it back, they got all the diagnosis tools there and can tell you what went wrong. if there is smoke, then your esc will never work perfectly again.
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Old 07-12-2007, 07:49 AM   #2397
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Aw man thats gonna take ages, do i send it to this address: 17032 Armstrong Ave., Irvine, CA 92614
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Old 07-12-2007, 07:54 AM   #2398
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yes, you can print out the form

http://www.teamnovak.com/download/srvc_forms/index.html

novaks warranty is very quick
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Old 07-12-2007, 08:03 AM   #2399
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Ok thanks which service form do i use?.
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Old 07-12-2007, 08:48 AM   #2400
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I would recommend the warranty form, as the formal warranty is 120 days. Make sure you fill it out completely.

However I notice you're in Australia. I think you may deal through a more local distributor. Try email to [email protected] or [email protected]. Although they always respond, they've had trouble with their email filters... If you don't hear back in a day or the email bounces, try posting again here. Meanwhile I expect Steve or Charlie will post here where to send it.

Turnaround is about a week, plus shipping on each end.

Novak has fantastic customer support. They are definitely excellent to work with when you have a problem.
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