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Old 03-23-2007, 09:00 AM   #2071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrKucho
im so stupid , didnt read the manual ... there is a set up button ...

once i did the set up, all is right
If all else fails, read the manual....
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:40 AM   #2072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
You can always email us directly [email protected]
Can't seem to get an email to go thru so maybe you can help me here.

Charlie,
Last weekend I was racing one of your 3.5 BL systems. After about 3 minutes into the race the motor just went flat. By flat, I mean it just stopped running at speed and kind of just crawled around the track. It never completely stopped running. I picked the car up to see if I could noticed anything wrong with the car. After giving it a quick and good look over, nothing was wrong. I put the car back down and it ran as if nothing had happened for two laps and then did the same thing. I thought that it was running to hot and that's why it was doing that. Then, I was talking to Nexus Racing in Georgia about it Tuesday. They said if it had gotten to hot "Thermaled" it should've stopped completely. They stated that they heard about a some bad temperature sensors and it might be that.

Can you help me with this issue? What do I need to do or try to figure out the problem?


Thank you for your time
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:58 AM   #2073
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Hello,

The latest version of the GTB's have a "Slow and Go" Thermal protection. So it won't stop completely, it cuts back to about 1/4 throttle, so you can "get out of the way" if needed.

Typically this simply means you are overgeared, or have overheated. Make sure your fan is working correctly, and check gearing. For the 3.5 in TC we're usually between 10.3 to 10.8. That doesn't mean if you run that gear, it will be fine though. Just a rough starting point. I've got guys that run in the 11s. I'm talking about "final drive" here. Let me know if you need anything else.

[email protected] should get through. I check my filter twice daily. Or [email protected]
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Old 03-23-2007, 10:04 AM   #2074
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Thank you for your fast response. It had to have been in the "slow go" mode then. As I know, I must have been over geared according to your starting point numbers. Thank you again.
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Old 03-26-2007, 04:44 AM   #2075
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i had my frist day with lipos and was a dissaster, three high speed frontal crashes , i thought i was having radio interferences cause the car sometimes went crazy speed uncontrolled and then crash ...

it was not radio problems , the problem was novak 2s Smart Stop lipo cut off

after program it and everything looks ok , the damn item goes full power when i hit brake after a medium speed guning ... in other words, if i drive slow and then brake no problem , but if i run fast and then brake , the god damn smart stop goes full power instead of braking !!!!!!!!!

it looks like a calculated plan to ruin my car , if i try to do something like that i coudnt do it as good, cause when for first lap you run slow , trying new suspension setup brakign slow and everything goes fine, then you start driving fast and the sabotage happens....

did i got a bad smart stop unit? something related to programing? i did check this , programing is quite simple but might be something i didnt do right
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Old 03-26-2007, 06:20 AM   #2076
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hi Charlie.

was wondering if i could purchase a new motor sensor wire harness?

i got a motor in a trade (5800 for a 4300), unfotunatly the motor he traded me for was not up to scratch as shown in the pic.


thanks
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Old 03-26-2007, 07:49 AM   #2077
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My smart stop works perfectly. Maybe you can try reprogramming it again. If that does not work it is probably a return to novak type of issue. Can you test it on a car stand to make sure you don't snap your car to pieces next time?

Glad I did not have this one.
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Old 03-26-2007, 02:35 PM   #2078
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DR. - Your smart stop needs to be "programmed" to the radio if you will.

Run throught the "one Touch Setup". I've had the same thing happen to me by accident during some bench testing of a smart stop.

If you don't set it up, it will return to its internal nuetrual. This is not going to match your transmitter. So when Low Voltage activates, it cuts in, but NOT with the correct neutral because it was never set. Simply run your smart stop through the one touch setup and it should be fine.

GYM- Sorry, we don't sell the sensor harnesses separetely. We offer RMF exchange of the entire motor for $30. Details are on the website in the Customer Service section.

Our Email is [email protected], or [email protected] or [email protected].

Thanks
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Old 03-27-2007, 01:41 AM   #2079
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Hi i have an old 6.5R and a ss5800

Can someone confirm if the following bearing sizes are correct... respecitvely

1/8x3/8 x5/32"

3/16x1/2 x10/51"
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Old 03-27-2007, 03:56 PM   #2080
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Hey guys...just wanted to point out our new article here:

How To Build a Dual Trans-Cap Unit for the Novak GTB

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Old 03-27-2007, 04:15 PM   #2081
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It is VERY dangerous to run those with out insulation. Fire, shorted packs, burning ESCs.... So please use insulation, shrink wrap.

GYM- Shoot me an email.
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Old 03-28-2007, 02:18 AM   #2082
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Default 23T brush equivalent

Hi all,

Is there a brushless motor that is 23T brush equivalent from novak?

Thanks,
Diesel.
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Old 03-28-2007, 11:59 AM   #2083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
Hello,

The latest version of the GTB's have a "Slow and Go" Thermal protection. So it won't stop completely, it cuts back to about 1/4 throttle, so you can "get out of the way" if needed.
How can I identify if my GTB has the "Slow and Go" system?

Snowy.
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Old 03-28-2007, 12:57 PM   #2084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel
Hi all,
Is there a brushless motor that is 23T brush equivalent from novak?
Thanks,
Diesel.
Yeah, the 13.5 with a sintered rotor. Seriously, that's what I consider it to be equal to.
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Old 03-28-2007, 01:15 PM   #2085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
DR. - Your smart stop needs to be "programmed" to the radio if you will.

Run throught the "one Touch Setup". I've had the same thing happen to me by accident during some bench testing of a smart stop.

If you don't set it up, it will return to its internal nuetrual. This is not going to match your transmitter. So when Low Voltage activates, it cuts in, but NOT with the correct neutral because it was never set. Simply run your smart stop through the one touch setup and it should be fine.
thanks charlie , but... i did it ...maybe i did it wrong.... i will do it again and check with car in my hands.
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