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Old 03-04-2007, 12:33 PM   #1996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Na, the 4300 is a 10.5. The 10.5 just comes standard with the sintered rotor and a ribbed can. If you get the sintered upgrade kit for your 4300, it'll be the same motor aside from the "ribbed" look of the can. Unfortunately, it's a bit of an expensive upgrade. :-(

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPYT1&P=7

Steve, your comment on the difference/similarity between 10.5 and 4300? Thanks.
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Old 03-04-2007, 01:18 PM   #1997
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Syndrome is pretty much correct.

Performance wise your old 4300 with the sintered rotor upgrade will run the same as a pro 10.5 motor.

The ony things you will be missing out on are the ribbed endbells (which look cooler, are slightly lighter, and give better heat disappation, and the blue timing ring for easy identificatiom as a 10.5.
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Old 03-04-2007, 01:52 PM   #1998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
Syndrome is pretty much correct.
Boohah! :-D

Hey Steve, do you guys notice fade in the 13.5 motors after ~4 minutes when they're geared on the very edge? The motor is FAST but then fades pretty hard. I'm using LiPo, so I don't think it's the battery. I've heard a couple of different theories about the heat reducing its efficiency, or the stator getting fatigued, but no hard information yet. I'm using the sintered rotor, no heat sink, and my GTB without the fan. The ESC is never above 100, and the motor comes off around 150-155.
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Old 03-04-2007, 02:25 PM   #1999
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There will always be a point of diminishing returns when using anything to it's limit.

The "fade" you are experiencing is probably a combination of heat saturation of the stator and the magnet. When both become warm the efficiency can begin to drop and that's probably why you see some fading.

To combat this you can put a heatsink on your motor or simply gear down a tooth or so.

The handling of your call also makes a pretty drastic effect on how well your motor system runs... if your car is not smooth and does not carry cornerspeed you are much more likely to have heating/fading problems than someone who's car/driving are better.
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Old 03-04-2007, 02:31 PM   #2000
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Cool, thanks for the info. I'll experiment with cooling once the Type-R shows up and I can put a heat sink on without worrying about its position in the car. In the meantime, I guess I'm stuck with gearing and driving improvements. :-)
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Old 03-04-2007, 02:49 PM   #2001
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Has anyone come up with an alternative or nicer looking solution to wire management on the sensor wire? It's a mess without the corkscrew shield, and that stuff looks like junk on the car in the first place. I tried slicing a piece of fuel tubing down the center and using that like a sheath, but the I.D. was too small...


Anything? It's my only complaint with the Novak systems.
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Old 03-04-2007, 02:51 PM   #2002
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I'm not a big fan of fans, but the Losi R is going to be setup for them. It should be pretty painless to run them. I think I am going to try it.
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Old 03-04-2007, 03:01 PM   #2003
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"Has anyone come up with an alternative or nicer looking solution to wire management on the sensor wire? It's a mess without the corkscrew shield, and that stuff looks like junk on the car in the first place. I tried slicing a piece of fuel tubing down the center and using that like a sheath, but the I.D. was too small..."

SpeedMerchant did a nice job on one of his 12th scales, but your right, the sensor wires are just plain ugly.

Here's a link for12th people.....
http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/NovakGTBInstall.html
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Old 03-04-2007, 03:09 PM   #2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12thScaleCrazy
SpeedMerchant did a nice job on one of his 12th scales, but your right, the sensor wires are just plain ugly.

On a side note, has anyone noticed that the Rev4 SpeedMerchant was a nicer pod fit for a brushless setup than the Rev4.5?




Here's my current "project" of fitting a GTB/6.5 into an Associated B4. I just need to figure out a cleaner route for the sensor wire (not installed yet)...
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Last edited by squarehead; 11-29-2010 at 03:59 PM.
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Old 03-04-2007, 09:25 PM   #2005
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hi steve weiss / charlie s,
i have a little question here...i'm going to use a gtb esc with a 5800ss motor in a AE FTB4, what's a good ratio to start off with? spur gear on car is the kit item, and i'll be just bashign around, not into racing atm yet. does it need the sintered rotor for this application? thanks.
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Old 03-04-2007, 10:18 PM   #2006
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Since us as the customers are putting our request to Team Novak, how about being able to automatically switch between brushed motor and brushless motor without havin to change profile? For me as a racer, I need to switch between the two types of motors. Hope to see this feature on the new GTB Spread Spectrum I will definitely one!
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Old 03-04-2007, 11:16 PM   #2007
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Dear Novak,

People would totally buy a smaller ESC that had all the great specs of the GTB, a few modern features and updates, but only limited motor handling, like nothing faster than a 10.5. You know, to help shrink things down a bit. I know the 4 cell one is lower, but it's still a little fat. Also, the solder "buttons" are so much nicer than sticking wires in those holes. But I still love you guys, we're not breaking up or anything.
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Old 03-06-2007, 05:40 AM   #2008
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how much of an improvement in heat dissipation does the Novak Motor Sleeve Heat sink make? would my 3.5R be fine if i run without the sleeve heat sink?
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Old 03-06-2007, 06:23 AM   #2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Dear Novak,

People would totally buy a smaller ESC that had all the great specs of the GTB, a few modern features and updates, but only limited motor handling, like nothing faster than a 10.5. You know, to help shrink things down a bit. I know the 4 cell one is lower, but it's still a little fat. Also, the solder "buttons" are so much nicer than sticking wires in those holes. But I still love you guys, we're not breaking up or anything.
:werd: Or what about a brushless only ESC? Would that make it smaller?
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Old 03-06-2007, 09:00 AM   #2010
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Yellowtaro and Syndrome, your requests are duely noted!

Rocket Racer -- The 3.5R motor can be run without that sleevesink... the Sleevesink usually reduces temperatures by 5-15 degrees F.

Slam- Unfortunately making it brushless only will not reduce the size of the ESC at all. Running in brushed mode is pretty much all software driven that of course does not change the size of the ESC
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Last edited by Steve Weiss; 03-06-2007 at 09:03 AM. Reason: Added Reply to Slamman
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