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Old 02-28-2007, 05:42 PM   #1966
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Old 02-28-2007, 06:44 PM   #1967
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this was for you steve :-)
Oh did I not get what you were asking for DrKucho?

Your right the only difference between profile 1 and profile 3 is that the minimum drive in profile 3 is lower than that in profile 1.

This generally gives you less "punch" or bottom end response... it results in a smoother start up than normal as well.

You are also correct in that you can change the minimum drive in profile 1 to make it just the same as profile 3... the reason we made profile 3 was because people seem to be less afraid of changing profiles than of changing values in their profile... it is easier to just "hold the button until all four lights are on" than to "hold the button until just the amber light is on"...
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Old 03-01-2007, 01:37 AM   #1968
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
Oh did I not get what you were asking for DrKucho?

Your right the only difference between profile 1 and profile 3 is that the minimum drive in profile 3 is lower than that in profile 1.

This generally gives you less "punch" or bottom end response... it results in a smoother start up than normal as well.

You are also correct in that you can change the minimum drive in profile 1 to make it just the same as profile 3... the reason we made profile 3 was because people seem to be less afraid of changing profiles than of changing values in their profile... it is easier to just "hold the button until all four lights are on" than to "hold the button until just the amber light is on"...
thanks!
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:46 AM   #1969
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
Hey Rampal,

I haven't really gotten any good information back from my european driver's on 5 cell gear ratios yet... but 8.5 sounds like it might be an ok starting point for you on larger european flowing tracks... I don't think we could get away with that on our small tracks here in the US though!

I'll try to dig up any test data and give you better info as soon as I get some more time to do so!
cool, thanks!

anyway, this is only a suggestion, but it would be really nice to have on the novak website the suggested ratio ranges to all novak motors, for 4, 5 and 6 cell, for standard and sintered rotors... You had that up to 5.5R I think on the manual, but since then, for the 4.5 or 3.5 or for the "correction" with the sintered, there is no reference....

thanks again,
cheers,
al
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:59 AM   #1970
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It's hard to make good recommendations for gearing for some of the motors (especially the 4.5 & 3.5).

I've shut down in 12th running the recommended 4 cell gearing. You have to try a few different gears to see what works for the track and layout that you're running on. Motor timing also has a huge effect on gearing because it moves the powerband around.
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Old 03-01-2007, 06:04 AM   #1971
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Following on from an earlier post about running at 1/4 - 1/2 throttle for extended periods. Is there any reason not to buy the 3.5r, then adjust the throttle high point to suit how much power you need, rather than buying different wind rotors?

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Old 03-01-2007, 06:44 AM   #1972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unregistered
It's hard to make good recommendations for gearing for some of the motors (especially the 4.5 & 3.5).

I've shut down in 12th running the recommended 4 cell gearing. You have to try a few different gears to see what works for the track and layout that you're running on. Motor timing also has a huge effect on gearing because it moves the powerband around.
Yeah, I know what you mean, however, my point is to "enrich" the current documentation with a reference for gear ratio ranges. The gear you choose would depend on the track, your setup, weight, etc. but as an start point, specially for the newbie (like me ) that would be a great.

cheers,
al
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:19 AM   #1973
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Rampal-- we are currently working "behind the scenes" to try to add more in depth information to the website all the time... I've thought about having that sort of reference chart up there myself but honestly just haven't had the time to get it implimented yet... but we are always thinking about stuff like that!

ianjoyner-- I've gotten this question a few times and I just think that alot of the time when you go with a slower motor you're looking for a different power band as well as less top speed....by using a 3.5R and turning the endpoint down you're still going to have a very powerful motor off the bottom end... and I'm not exactly sure this is what you're looking for.

Unregistered is right to about gearing... you really have to sometimes play with the gearing for your exact situation to find what works for you. That is why we always recommend to keep tabs on your motor and ESC temps and use that as a final determining factor for your gearing choices.
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:23 AM   #1974
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Steve.....Not sure if this was asked before.....but How do the new 2.4 Spectrum GTB's differ from the standard GTB’s? What problems will you run into when using the standard GTB with a 2.4 GHz system? thanks
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:45 PM   #1975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
Rodney-- Those are supposed to ship next month at some point if everything goes smoothly with production!
steve, will the spread upgrade be available for the older gtbs?
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Old 03-01-2007, 10:01 PM   #1976
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Kevin-- There actually are no major problems using the existing GTB with any sort of 2.4 GHz system.

We just decided to take advantage of the 2.4 GHz so that we could push the GTB to it's potential without having to worry about possible radio interference from those changes.

Kings Kid-- Unfortunately I haven't heard of any plans to do upgrades for people with the older GTBs to the Spread Spectrum specifications... it requires some hardware changes on the boards and to be honest they are not easy changes to make by hand.
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Old 03-02-2007, 11:32 AM   #1977
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It's quiet in here today!
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Old 03-02-2007, 11:41 AM   #1978
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
It's quiet in here today!
ok , maybe you can tell me why my 5.5 kills all front bearings in a couple of runs, after a couple of runs the car starts to sound very noisy , really ugly sound, i discovered that it was the front bearing , when i replace it car sounds nice again , but a couple of runs and i got the same noise again....

could be i got a unbalanced rotor ?
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Old 03-02-2007, 11:41 AM   #1979
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It could be the rotor is out of balance...but they are generally well balanced.

How is the endplay in the motor? Is it excessively tight? If so that might be the culprit because most bearings do not take side loads very well and can lead to premature failure like what you have experienced.

Also your gear mesh can make a difference as well... if there are tight spots in your gear mesh it can cause harmonics that can eventually damage the bearing as well.

I would check out both of these.
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Old 03-02-2007, 11:47 AM   #1980
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im sorry my english is not that good to understand what you mean with "endplay" and "culprit"
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