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Old 02-23-2007, 09:50 AM   #1921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrKucho
will the extra volts do anthing good to ESC or battery?
As far as I remember that voltage rating on the cap is the max voltage that the cap can handle. You can only put out as much voltage as your pack has....7.2v 6 cell pack will have a max charge peak voltage of 10v so thats why Novak goes with 10v caps. So you could use a 100v 4300uF cap and it would work just fine....the voltage on the cap is just the max allowed by that cap.
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Old 02-23-2007, 10:23 AM   #1922
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evicerator
Hey guys,

Just wanted to let you know that any of your local hobby shops/distributors that carry Novak products should be able to order you proper replacment capacitors from us.

Just ask them and I'm sure they'd be happy to order them for you!

Most of the team runs the Trans-Cap Module on pretty much everything. The Novak part # for that is: 5679

Cheers guys!

Hi Evicerator:

Here in Spain, pretty much everything we bought is either from US, Japan or Germany... we don't have a Local Novak support (or the one we have here doesn't bring brushless stuff) thus either we wait for the piece from tower or go with whatever we have at electronic store... and sincerely, we will wait more if we order it through the LHS that if we bought it directly from tower or other store we have an open order at the moment... but thanks anyway.

cheers,
al
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Old 02-23-2007, 01:14 PM   #1923
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Can the new 4cell gtb be used with 6 cells?
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Old 02-23-2007, 01:19 PM   #1924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porschejim911
Can the new 4cell gtb be used with 6 cells?
No, it was designed for 4-cell only.
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Old 02-24-2007, 08:34 AM   #1925
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What grade solder do novak use that i can't get my cap off with a 50w soldering iron and a lot of brute force?! how long can i leave it on the board before i melt the whole thing?
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Old 02-24-2007, 08:58 AM   #1926
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Frankly, it's probably bad soldering methods and a dirty iron/worn tip that's the problem, and not the solder on the existing cap.

Clean the tip, tin the tip, and make sure all of the tip to iron connections are clean and free of corrosion. Use good solder to get the tip hotter before trying to de-solder anything on an ESC.

A properly functioning soldering iron needs less heat than you think to work, and all of them require NO FORCE WHATSOEVER to solder or de-solder. If you are using force, you are only breaking down your iron's tip and making it worse.

A 40wt iron with a new/clean .125" chisel tip and decent rosin-core solder is more than enough to work on these little boards and wires.



Soldering tips:

- any cracks or depressions in the surface of the tip essentially render it useless, and it should be replaced

- more force or tip pressure does not mean more heat or better solder joints

- higher heat destroys a tip faster, and doesn't necessarily give you a better solder joint—you don't need to run max heat on the iron for it to work properly

- moving the iron across the surface reduces heat and ruins the surface of the tip

- dirty sponges can lead to premature tip failure and bad solder joints.

- household sponges shouldn't be used to clean tips, and distilled water should be used in the sponge to keep common water minerals off of the tip

- do NOT use any abrasive material to clean the tip, like a 3M pad, file or sandpaper—you will destroy the plating on the tip that allows it to work

- keep the tip tinned at all times

- many irons reach full operating temperature in 15-20 seconds

- keep iron shut off when you are not using it




Those tips can double to triple the life of your expensive irons while giving you FAR better soldering results at the same time.



HTH,

doug
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Old 02-25-2007, 03:19 PM   #1927
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Default Motor Shimms

Where can I get shimms to tighten up the rotor on a Novak 13.5 brushless motor?

I have one 13.5 that has a nice snug fit and one that has a lot of play.
When I took the motors apart (to put in the sintered rotor), one of the motors had some small shimm washers and the one didn't.
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Old 02-25-2007, 03:27 PM   #1928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slakr
Where can I get shimms to tighten up the rotor on a Novak 13.5 brushless motor?

I have one 13.5 that has a nice snug fit and one that has a lot of play.
When I took the motors apart (to put in the sintered rotor), one of the motors had some small shimm washers and the one didn't.
call novak
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Old 02-25-2007, 05:04 PM   #1929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slakr
Where can I get shimms to tighten up the rotor on a Novak 13.5 brushless motor?

I have one 13.5 that has a nice snug fit and one that has a lot of play.
When I took the motors apart (to put in the sintered rotor), one of the motors had some small shimm washers and the one didn't.
You can use standard axle shims from a TC3.
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Old 02-26-2007, 11:33 PM   #1930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K
As far as I remember that voltage rating on the cap is the max voltage that the cap can handle. You can only put out as much voltage as your pack has....7.2v 6 cell pack will have a max charge peak voltage of 10v so thats why Novak goes with 10v caps. So you could use a 100v 4300uF cap and it would work just fine....the voltage on the cap is just the max allowed by that cap.
Yep - the voltage rating is for maximum working voltage. if you used a 6V cap, the thing would explode in your car! LoL.
The other thing is - higher rated caps take longer to charge I believe. So it's worthwhile finding the closest cap you can. I have a feeling computer parts stores may have some closer to what you need. If the local electronics store doesn't. 16V is fairly common (and cheap).. the 10V ones are harder to find..

Also - find one with a low ESr rating if you can.
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Old 02-27-2007, 01:11 AM   #1931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryAsian
Yep - the voltage rating is for maximum working voltage. if you used a 6V cap, the thing would explode in your car! LoL.
The other thing is - higher rated caps take longer to charge I believe. So it's worthwhile finding the closest cap you can. I have a feeling computer parts stores may have some closer to what you need. If the local electronics store doesn't. 16V is fairly common (and cheap).. the 10V ones are harder to find..

Also - find one with a low ESr rating if you can.
ESr rating? what's that?

Last edited by DrKucho; 02-27-2007 at 04:46 AM.
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Old 02-27-2007, 04:17 AM   #1932
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Hi guys just have a question to ask

what are the cons about running the system at only 1/4 to 1/2 throttle inputs for a period of 8-10 mins? will it cause excessive heat? premature wear?

a friend wants to buy a system for drifting but i told him it would be way to fast so he said what if he only used 1/2 throttle power?
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Old 02-27-2007, 08:28 AM   #1933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slakr
Where can I get shimms to tighten up the rotor on a Novak 13.5 brushless motor?

I have one 13.5 that has a nice snug fit and one that has a lot of play.
When I took the motors apart (to put in the sintered rotor), one of the motors had some small shimm washers and the one didn't.
Novak offers these in their #5930 540 Motor Hardware Kit.
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Old 02-27-2007, 08:54 AM   #1934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryAsian
The other thing is - higher rated caps take longer to charge I believe. So it's worthwhile finding the closest cap you can..
Also - find one with a low ESr rating if you can.
Higher voltage caps do not take longer to charge. You just may run into a size issue.

I'd recommend going with ELNA brand caps (Same as KO uses) if you're going to be ordering htem online. You can probably even email KO and ask them what series ELNA cap they use.

Another thing that is worth mentioning is that all the RC mfg's use 105 deg rated caps, which is NOT the standard. Its an upgraded temp rating. To me I dont see the cap ever getting hotter than boiling water, but its something to consider.

Anyway just find a 105deg cap thats has the right value (in uf) and is rated for at least 10v and be happy
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:15 AM   #1935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floodo1
Higher voltage caps do not take longer to charge. You just may run into a size issue.

I'd recommend going with ELNA brand caps (Same as KO uses) if you're going to be ordering htem online. You can probably even email KO and ask them what series ELNA cap they use.

Another thing that is worth mentioning is that all the RC mfg's use 105 deg rated caps, which is NOT the standard. Its an upgraded temp rating. To me I dont see the cap ever getting hotter than boiling water, but its something to consider.

Anyway just find a 105deg cap thats has the right value (in uf) and is rated for at least 10v and be happy
i knew the 105 deg thing, coudnt get it dough, i got a 16v 4700uF and 5 deg cap , i expected bigger size but it is exactly the same as novak uses in the GTB ...
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