New Novak Brusless System
12-24-2006, 10:45 AM
#1801
Originally Posted by HVAC25000
My steering servo is shutting off for about 3-7 seconds at a time while I'm running. I loose complete control over the servo and it locks (I say locks, but I'm not sure if it is locking in that position or just shutting off completely, hard to catch thecar while it's moving and grab the wheels to find out) in whatever position it is in for a few seconds. The wires don't have any visible breaks and the servo is fairly new. I don't lose any control over throttle, though. It only happened after about 2 minutes of running, but I still had atleast half a pack left (Orion 442s 1.176v), and no noticable loss in acceleration, so I don't think power is the reason. No components in the car were warmer than about 75 degrees so I don't think it has anything to do with overheating. I've used this radio system, batteries, and servo in this car in conjunction with a GTX and an Orion motor with no trouble. As soon as I switched to the GTB the trouble arose.
Anyone have any ideas?
Anyone have any ideas?
12-24-2006, 01:50 PM
#1802
Originally Posted by dal bains
What can be done if the sensor wire is too short? Can novak lengthen it? or would it just be cheaper to buy another motor?
I ran a stock brushless for the first time last night (borrowed it from a friend) for the main, well lets just say it gonna stay in the car... he was selling it anyway. I like stlnlst would have taken the win if i hadnt mixed up my batteries.
I ran a stock brushless for the first time last night (borrowed it from a friend) for the main, well lets just say it gonna stay in the car... he was selling it anyway. I like stlnlst would have taken the win if i hadnt mixed up my batteries.
12-24-2006, 05:53 PM
#1807
Originally Posted by STLNLST
I hope not just because of guys like EA, Brood, Putnam..and other motor builders
I too will never go back to brush motor....on my Mi2EC, brush motor was gearing 32/116.....on my 13.5, geared wooping 38/108....a MILES of different. The speed can FINALLY match those high end stock brushed motor....just need to work on the driving a little because of that extra speed. Only like 0.3-0.6 sec (per lap) slower then the A-main guys the whole day...not to mention, I ran for like 8 minutes with the same speed...and I think I was like 1-2T over geared...(thermal at around 8 minutes mark with stock rotor and no heatsink nor fan @ motor).
On 12th scale......I will have to do the same. Brush motor just cannot last as long as the brushless motor....not to mention it can geared to like 19T motor speed advantage....(which I would not recommanded)....really need to pick up that 4 cell GTB and another 13.5.
12-26-2006, 03:40 PM
#1809
I have just got a 4.5 and am just condering the gearing, it says about 3 teeth lower than a 8 turn,, the track is reasonably small.
With a 10 turn the rollout is around 18mm using foam tyres
I'm thinking the 4.5 should be somewhere around the 13-14 mark.
Is this about right or am I completely off?
Thanks
With a 10 turn the rollout is around 18mm using foam tyres
I'm thinking the 4.5 should be somewhere around the 13-14 mark.
Is this about right or am I completely off?
Thanks
12-26-2006, 06:50 PM
#1810
I am struggling to get low enough gearing on small tracks with the 4.5. Even on very large tracks (offroad) I ran roughly 20 mm rollout. I think 10-15 ranges is reasonable for the 4.5. I ran 17 to 20 range and that was significantly too high, especially the 20 mm range. I am having trouble getting a low enough pinion on there, limited by max spur size and min pinion size. I am shooting for being able to get to about 12 or 13 mm as a low end but I haven't tried it yet... due to some issues it will be a few weeks before I get another test, so let me know what you find out since I need to pick up some more pinions for this low range.
12-26-2006, 07:02 PM
#1811
Originally Posted by ford_racing
I have just got a 4.5 and am just condering the gearing, it says about 3 teeth lower than a 8 turn,, the track is reasonably small.
With a 10 turn the rollout is around 18mm using foam tyres
I'm thinking the 4.5 should be somewhere around the 13-14 mark.
Is this about right or am I completely off?
Thanks
With a 10 turn the rollout is around 18mm using foam tyres
I'm thinking the 4.5 should be somewhere around the 13-14 mark.
Is this about right or am I completely off?
Thanks
12-27-2006, 09:34 PM
#1812
Is that the 1/8 mile or 1/4 mile drag strip ??? 
I think I read that the 3.5 sintered rotor gives more torque, thus probably running better with higher gearing. Have you found that to be true?
I think I read that the 3.5 sintered rotor gives more torque, thus probably running better with higher gearing. Have you found that to be true?
12-28-2006, 11:28 AM
#1813
I'm using 3.5R with un-cut tires ( don't know the roll out on 1/12 cars ), and 4.34 Final Gear Ratio ( 100 / 23 ). I tell you how fast : .... it's crazy. It's drag master.... faster than 1/8 car's acceleration.
After 5 minutes....I quit using it. I'm waiting 7.5R for more reasonable racing now.
After 5 minutes....I quit using it. I'm waiting 7.5R for more reasonable racing now.
01-02-2007, 07:41 AM
#1814
some GTB + 3.5R questions: (very sorry if these were answered before 
)
1. what is the safe operating temp range of the motor? of the esc? at what point (degrees) does the esc and motor shut down?
2. what is the suggested fdr? ive read somewhere that 11.00 is a good starting point. is this correct?
3. can drive frequency be changed for both brushed and brushless profiles? if yes, what is the suggested drive frequency for the 3.5R?
4. can i use a clip-on aluminum heatsink for the 3.5R motor? since the can is divided into 3 sections (2 silver sections with 1 purple section in the middle), is it okay to clip on a heatsink that will touch all 3 sections at the same time - no shorting will happen? also, since the endbell is plastic, im guessing the fans should blow towards just the whole can, right?
5. does the GTB have low voltage LIPO cutoff?
6. ive read that the GTB fan plug is 6V. can i wire up 2 more additional fans rated at 6v in parallel to that plug? or am i better off wiring the additional fans straight to the + & - of batts for 7.2V power?
thanks in advance for any info
(edit: added question # 6)
)1. what is the safe operating temp range of the motor? of the esc? at what point (degrees) does the esc and motor shut down?
2. what is the suggested fdr? ive read somewhere that 11.00 is a good starting point. is this correct?
3. can drive frequency be changed for both brushed and brushless profiles? if yes, what is the suggested drive frequency for the 3.5R?
4. can i use a clip-on aluminum heatsink for the 3.5R motor? since the can is divided into 3 sections (2 silver sections with 1 purple section in the middle), is it okay to clip on a heatsink that will touch all 3 sections at the same time - no shorting will happen? also, since the endbell is plastic, im guessing the fans should blow towards just the whole can, right?
5. does the GTB have low voltage LIPO cutoff?
6. ive read that the GTB fan plug is 6V. can i wire up 2 more additional fans rated at 6v in parallel to that plug? or am i better off wiring the additional fans straight to the + & - of batts for 7.2V power?
thanks in advance for any info
(edit: added question # 6)
Last edited by marvi; 01-02-2007 at 07:58 AM.
01-02-2007, 08:08 AM
#1815
Originally Posted by marvi
some GTB + 3.5R questions: (very sorry if these were answered before )
1. what is the safe operating temp range of the motor? of the esc? at what point (degrees) does the esc and motor shut down?
2. what is the suggested fdr? ive read somewhere that 11.00 is a good starting point. is this correct?
3. can drive frequency be changed for both brushed and brushless profiles? if yes, what is the suggested drive frequency for the 3.5R?
4. can i use a clip-on aluminum heatsink for the 3.5R motor? since the can is divided into 3 sections (2 silver sections with 1 purple section in the middle), is it okay to clip on a heatsink that will touch all 3 sections at the same time - no shorting will happen? also, since the endbell is plastic, im guessing the fans should blow towards just the whole can, right?
5. does the GTB have low voltage LIPO cutoff?
6. ive read that the GTB fan plug is 6V. can i wire up 2 more additional fans rated at 6v in parallel to that plug? or am i better off wiring the additional fans straight to the + & - of batts for 7.2V power?
thanks in advance for any info
(edit: added question # 6)
)1. what is the safe operating temp range of the motor? of the esc? at what point (degrees) does the esc and motor shut down?
2. what is the suggested fdr? ive read somewhere that 11.00 is a good starting point. is this correct?
3. can drive frequency be changed for both brushed and brushless profiles? if yes, what is the suggested drive frequency for the 3.5R?
4. can i use a clip-on aluminum heatsink for the 3.5R motor? since the can is divided into 3 sections (2 silver sections with 1 purple section in the middle), is it okay to clip on a heatsink that will touch all 3 sections at the same time - no shorting will happen? also, since the endbell is plastic, im guessing the fans should blow towards just the whole can, right?
5. does the GTB have low voltage LIPO cutoff?
6. ive read that the GTB fan plug is 6V. can i wire up 2 more additional fans rated at 6v in parallel to that plug? or am i better off wiring the additional fans straight to the + & - of batts for 7.2V power?
thanks in advance for any info
(edit: added question # 6)
I will let someone answer #1 and 2.
#3...brush has it own profile, I believe it is in #7, that is the only 1 you can use on brush motor, check your manual.
#4...Yes, but you should also try the Novak Brushless motor heatsink, design especially for the velocity motor.
#5...Not within (build-in) the GTB (I think the new one in the future will have that plus USB computer setup)...but you can buy the add-on from Novak.
#6...No...leave that one for the original fan. I wired 2 set of fans at the +/- wire just like what you mentioned plus a switch.
