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New Novak Brusless System

New Novak Brusless System

Old 12-03-2006, 04:07 PM
  #1681  
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Originally Posted by Yellowtaro
Hi

I accidentally solder "A" wire to "C" solder tap and vice versa. I blip the throttle a few times just to test it and the motor warmed and was not smooth. I realized that I soldered wrong and corrected it. Is there any adverse effect to the motor or ESC due to what I did? Thanks.
I saw someone mess up a power capacitor by doing this...it might be a good idea to give your power cap a close inspection.
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Old 12-03-2006, 04:35 PM
  #1682  
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Originally Posted by Nexus Racing
I saw someone mess up a power capacitor by doing this...it might be a good idea to give your power cap a close inspection.

What would I be looking for?
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Old 12-05-2006, 10:20 AM
  #1683  
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His power cap actually started leaking some "capacitor juice" (sorry, I don't know what else to call it ). He replaced the trans-cap module (capacitor with board) and all is good now.
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Old 12-05-2006, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Nexus Racing
His power cap actually started leaking some "capacitor juice" (sorry, I don't know what else to call it ). He replaced the trans-cap module (capacitor with board) and all is good now.
I will have to check mine. Do you know if the motor was damaged at all? Thanks.
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Old 12-05-2006, 12:26 PM
  #1685  
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Originally Posted by Yellowtaro
I will have to check mine. Do you know if the motor was damaged at all? Thanks.
AFAIK no, but I don't think he ever hit the throttle with it.
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Old 12-05-2006, 12:35 PM
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I soldered it back correctly and seemed to run ok.... I hope there is no damage.....
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Old 12-05-2006, 04:59 PM
  #1687  
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Originally Posted by Evicerator
SSJChar,

It is correct that you cannot adjust the minimum brake and drag brake separately.

To help explain things...


Anyhow, hope that it helps you clear up some of your confusion!
thanks, that really helped clear things up.
also, in sportsman mode, i noticed that when i go wot or close to wot, the motor pulsates. i dont think i noticed this when i was actually driving the car since i never went wot, but when i was setting the car up on a stand to see if i was getting proper throttle response. is this normal? i havn't had a chance to use my car after noticing that, so i'm not sure if i somehow screwed up my esc after racing.
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Old 12-05-2006, 05:11 PM
  #1688  
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The pulsing is the Motor "Hitting the rev limiter". Just like a real engine, it will bounce off the limit if it approaches it very fast. If you ease into WOT you'll see you can make it not do it, or do it much less. This is part of the reason the Sportsman modes were not popular guys didn't like to see their car chug.....
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Old 12-06-2006, 09:20 AM
  #1689  
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Charlie,

Thank you for all your help at Cleveland, see you at Trackside if I can find a TC to borrow by then...
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Old 12-06-2006, 01:02 PM
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Which wire to cut ? I mean which sensor cable that makes ESC shutdown ?

The gossip is blue ?
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Old 12-06-2006, 01:08 PM
  #1691  
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Originally Posted by Nexus Racing
His power cap actually started leaking some "capacitor juice" (sorry, I don't know what else to call it ). He replaced the trans-cap module (capacitor with board) and all is good now.
juice = electrolyte

Low ESR capacitor are the best..... can be found in computer motherboards.

Tantalum capacitors are the ultimate ( ultra fast charging and discharging ).
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Old 12-06-2006, 01:29 PM
  #1692  
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Originally Posted by asw7576
Which wire to cut ? I mean which sensor cable that makes ESC shutdown ?

The gossip is blue ?
blue is correct
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Old 12-06-2006, 01:59 PM
  #1693  
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Originally Posted by Charlie
Pheyhoe, Don't turn your EPA down to make it slower. That actually makes it hotter. If it's over geared, it's overgeared, doesn't matter how little throttle you use.

Gear down on the pinion for a smaller or tighter track.
But what about if its undergeared? which is what people are telling me im doing wrong..?

If the motor is going slower, its not revving as high... so in theory its not over revving and creating too much heat.
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Old 12-06-2006, 05:47 PM
  #1694  
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That's what's nice about Theory.... it can be proven wrong.

No matter what they tell you, unless they are doing it to solve the same exact problem, it doesn't neccesarily apply directly.

I think gearing the motor correctly, and driving it correctly are the biggest factor. Under gearing can cause heating problems as well. You end up "firing" a lot more often and the motor see's crazy RPM. By under gear I mean to small of a pinion, not the final number.

I've had some offroad drivers run a Motor that is "too fast" for the track, gear it normal, and then turn the EPA down. They report good temps and good feel. But this works because the loads in offroad are much different. Much less traction, so you don't "hammer" on it.

In On road when you have bit, the car setup and how it gets through the corner is super important. I've been to races for years, with regular motors, you can "tell" when the car is good, the motor stays in much better condition. With BL, you end up with no "signs" from the motor other then the temperature.

You're right, if the motor is going slower it's not working as hard. But you have to factor in the Load Now. Put load on the motor, and the RPM will change, as does the amount of current.

So if you're overgeared, and you apply full throttle or 7/8ths throttle, the load on the motor is still the same, its still trying to pull the same gear, just doing it with "less power" so it's making it worse. You see?
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Old 12-06-2006, 05:48 PM
  #1695  
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The ESC has temperture protection, AND the motor has temp protection. The Blue Sensor Wire only disables the Motor Protection. The ESC protection CANNOT be disabled.
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