R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-01-2006, 04:48 AM   #1666
Tech Master
 
pheyhoe's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: England!
Posts: 1,332
Default

Ok, im still searching for that magic gear ratio. Im currently running 11.5 on a 3.5 and LIPO. I ran it on a fairly fast sweeping track with not many braking points and it was fine. I had it set at 120 Trottle High Pot, 150 being full (yes its set correctly so when you got o 149 it does decrese the motor speed)

so thats 11.5 wtih lipo at 120.

Now i tried running the same gearing on a similar size track in a smaller hall which was more twisty so it required more acceleration and braking. But i only ran the Hipot at 105. thermalled at about 4 minutes. Somebody told me that i might have gone the wrong way with my gearing but if its not thermalling on a higher speed circuit that tells me its not thermalling becasue its revving too high... the highest gearing i can acheive is 13.5.

What would you recommend i try next? 12, 12.5, 13?
__________________
[SIZE=1][COLOR=navy]Paul Heyhoe[/COLOR][/SIZE]
pheyhoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2006, 05:27 AM   #1667
Tech Adept
 
Racingbod85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Bromley, Kent, UK
Posts: 186
Default

Christ. I've been running a 4.5 on 9.9 on big but twisty track at carpet wars and it was near cold when it came off! saw someone gear a 3.5 to the moon - absolute missile, baking hot but still going. i think you're going the wrong way.
__________________
RC12L4
Novak 4.5R / 10.5R
Sanwa/Futaba/Much More
Carpetwars/Sidcup RCC/Maritime Racing/7oaksmcc
Racingbod85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2006, 06:50 AM   #1668
Tech Champion
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 9,000
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pheyhoe
Ok, im still searching for that magic gear ratio. Im currently running 11.5 on a 3.5 and LIPO. I ran it on a fairly fast sweeping track with not many braking points and it was fine. I had it set at 120 Trottle High Pot, 150 being full (yes its set correctly so when you got o 149 it does decrese the motor speed)

so thats 11.5 wtih lipo at 120.

Now i tried running the same gearing on a similar size track in a smaller hall which was more twisty so it required more acceleration and braking. But i only ran the Hipot at 105. thermalled at about 4 minutes. Somebody told me that i might have gone the wrong way with my gearing but if its not thermalling on a higher speed circuit that tells me its not thermalling becasue its revving too high... the highest gearing i can acheive is 13.5.

What would you recommend i try next? 12, 12.5, 13?
I don't know the actual size difference of both of your tracks but I'd run a 3.5 at about 10.4-10. Out here the only reason to run the 3.5 is to get that killer launch of the corners to mid straight. The motor is still coming on at the end of the straight when it's time to let off for the turn. The 4.5 does the exact same but it's a hair milder. Are you heavy on the breaks and are you running a sintered arm in your 3.5?
__________________
REMEMBER THE GOOD OLE DAYS..........THEY'RE NEVER COMING BACK SO WE'RE STUCK WITH THE MESS IN FRONT OF US!!!!
STLNLST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2006, 06:59 AM   #1669
Tech Master
 
pheyhoe's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: England!
Posts: 1,332
Default

Its about 25 meters by 16 meters.

I ran 10.1 and it thermalled early on in the race. That might have been becsaue the track was extra twisty that week and you really had to use the brakes to be fast.

I will try it at 10.5 and see how it goes. Im just suprised that the motor would be revving too high as it was only on 105 out of 150. It was about as fast as a 10-11 turn motor..

And yes im using a sintered rotor.
__________________
[SIZE=1][COLOR=navy]Paul Heyhoe[/COLOR][/SIZE]
pheyhoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2006, 07:29 AM   #1670
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 27,219
Trader Rating: 182 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pheyhoe
Its about 25 meters by 16 meters.

I ran 10.1 and it thermalled early on in the race. That might have been becsaue the track was extra twisty that week and you really had to use the brakes to be fast.

I will try it at 10.5 and see how it goes. Im just suprised that the motor would be revving too high as it was only on 105 out of 150. It was about as fast as a 10-11 turn motor..

And yes im using a sintered rotor.
i ve been running a 10.75 with the 3.5 with no issues , i cut back some of the drag brake on profile #1 and I barely use brakes, motor comes off the track around 120 degress. I also have the new Novak heatsink installed in it with a Nexus fan on the esc wired to the receiver.
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2006, 05:58 PM   #1671
Tech Master
 
Charlie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: I'm All Over The Place
Posts: 1,160
Default

Pheyhoe, Don't turn your EPA down to make it slower. That actually makes it hotter. If it's over geared, it's overgeared, doesn't matter how little throttle you use.

Gear down on the pinion for a smaller or tighter track.
__________________
Novak Electronics Tech Support
Charlie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2006, 08:20 PM   #1672
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 91
Default

i decided to post this here since i didn't want to start a new thread, but for the ss+ speed control, i can't change drag brake or minimum brake individually. whenever i change one, the other changes too. is this supposed to happen? i want to put my drag brake up without having minimum brake on, is this possible through the esc? actually, maybe i should get the terms straight. minimm brake is a braking force that is always on, and drag brake is the braking force when the throttle is in neutral? i actually don't what what dead band means either, but i dont think i'll use it anyways.
SSJChar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2006, 11:41 PM   #1673
Tech Elite
 
Jochim_18's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: CALI
Posts: 2,373
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

ok guys I installed my GTB/4300 I got some glitch or something the motor keep on running on and off without a throtle input whats going on?
__________________
Localrcracing.com - Your premiere source of Radio controlled Racing in central California.

Visaliahobbies.com * SkyRC * casterracingparts.com
Jochim_18 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2006, 11:47 PM   #1674
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 27,219
Trader Rating: 182 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jochim_18
ok guys I installed my GTB/4300 I got some glitch or something the motor keep on running on and off without a throtle input whats going on?
check your sub trim and reset your esc to your radio
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2006, 03:36 AM   #1675
Tech Adept
 
jarkkom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: helsinki, finland
Posts: 208
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to jarkkom
Default

Does anyone know what size are the bearings in SS5800 with an upgrade endbell?
__________________
www.eurorc.com/?ad=jm
jarkkom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2006, 06:51 PM   #1676
Tech Elite
 
Jochim_18's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: CALI
Posts: 2,373
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
check your sub trim and reset your esc to your radio
I'll try that... But I think is my radio battery I just noticed is already below 10 volts
__________________
Localrcracing.com - Your premiere source of Radio controlled Racing in central California.

Visaliahobbies.com * SkyRC * casterracingparts.com
Jochim_18 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2006, 06:55 PM   #1677
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 27,219
Trader Rating: 182 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jochim_18
I'll try that... But I think is my radio battery I just noticed is already below 10 volts
that will probably do it
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2006, 08:33 PM   #1678
The Evicerator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 4,142
Default

SSJChar,

It is correct that you cannot adjust the minimum brake and drag brake separately.

To help explain things...

Drag brake is the amount of braking in a percentage out of full brake that the ESC applies to the motor while the throttle is in the "dead band"

The dead band is the area of trigger throw, both forward and backwards, that the esc does not send any power to the motor for. Usually this is set to 4 or 5%. The reason you have a dead band is because A.) Most radio's potentiometers are of low quality or simply wear out quickly...this can cause minute variations in regards to what throttle signal is given per trigger location. The dead band being there helps "soak up" some of that variation B.) If there was zero dead band the feel would be quite touchy.

Minimum brake is the amount of brake in a percentage out of full brake that the esc delivers to the motor at the first step out of the dead band in the reverse direction.

When you set your drag brake it sets not only the drag brake but the minimum brake setting to the same value.

When you adjust the minimum brake value it assumes that you do not wish to use drag brake and it disables it and simply uses the value you select for the minimum brake value.

There are a few reasons that we do not allow you to change them independantly of on another at the moment but the main one is that it would be completely possible for someone to set their drag brake to say 35%... and their minimum brake to 20%. What would happen would be that if you let off the throttle to neutral, the ESC would apply 35% total brake to the motor... and as you moved to brake... the esc would then only apply 20%... effectively making your car speed up when you hit the brake instead of slowing down.

This is a problem we had with the cyclone series ESC when people would program them with the Pit Wizard...they would set the drag brake value to a value that was higher than the minimum brake value and they would be confused as to why their brakes weren't working right.

Anyhow, hope that it helps you clear up some of your confusion!


Quote:
Originally Posted by SSJChar
i decided to post this here since i didn't want to start a new thread, but for the ss+ speed control, i can't change drag brake or minimum brake individually. whenever i change one, the other changes too. is this supposed to happen? i want to put my drag brake up without having minimum brake on, is this possible through the esc? actually, maybe i should get the terms straight. minimm brake is a braking force that is always on, and drag brake is the braking force when the throttle is in neutral? i actually don't what what dead band means either, but i dont think i'll use it anyways.
__________________
Steve Weiss
TEAM ASSOCIATED -- REEDY -- SANWA -- PROTOFORM -- 1UP Racing -- ActivRC -- P1 BRAND -- TEAM KINWALD -- TEAM STEVE INTERNATIONAL
Steve Weiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2006, 08:34 PM   #1679
The Evicerator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 4,142
Default

The large bearing is 1/2" x 3/16"

Quote:
Originally Posted by jarkkom
Does anyone know what size are the bearings in SS5800 with an upgrade endbell?
__________________
Steve Weiss
TEAM ASSOCIATED -- REEDY -- SANWA -- PROTOFORM -- 1UP Racing -- ActivRC -- P1 BRAND -- TEAM KINWALD -- TEAM STEVE INTERNATIONAL
Steve Weiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2006, 03:50 PM   #1680
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 728
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

Hi

I accidentally solder "A" wire to "C" solder tap and vice versa. I blip the throttle a few times just to test it and the motor warmed and was not smooth. I realized that I soldered wrong and corrected it. Is there any adverse effect to the motor or ESC due to what I did? Thanks.
Yellowtaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Novak GTB 4-cell Brusless Speed Controller Greg Amendola R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 04-16-2008 12:59 PM
WTB: ASSOCIATED B44 W/ BRUSLESS SYSTEM levi m R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 1 02-15-2008 05:27 PM
brusless esc , maybe system jslider R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 1 11-18-2007 05:30 PM
Novak XBR Brusless/Brushed ESC Delyt R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 11-15-2007 09:44 AM
Novak 4.5 Brusless System Speedo/4.5 Motor w/Sintered installed mike ivy R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 10-25-2006 06:57 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:20 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net