R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-23-2006, 09:23 AM   #1546
Tech Elite
 
rough512's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 3,454
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J

they mount via the fins just like the heatsink on the GTB

I initially thought the heatsink replaced the purple band on the BL motor... that would have been neat. No clamping needed. Go as far replacing the ribbed ends .
rough512 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2006, 09:31 AM   #1547
The Evicerator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 4,142
Default

It DOES replace the purple band on the motor
__________________
Steve Weiss
TEAM ASSOCIATED -- REEDY -- SANWA -- PROTOFORM -- 1UP Racing -- ActivRC -- P1 BRAND -- TEAM KINWALD -- TEAM STEVE INTERNATIONAL
Steve Weiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2006, 10:24 AM   #1548
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 27,198
Trader Rating: 182 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rough512
I initially thought the heatsink replaced the purple band on the BL motor... that would have been neat. No clamping needed. Go as far replacing the ribbed ends .
it replaces the band look closely its not a clamp heatsink
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2006, 11:29 PM   #1549
Tech Fanatic
 
Drewdc90's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sunshine Coast Australia
Posts: 828
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

The only problem with it is that you wouldn't really be able to use a motor cooler (freezer). How much cooler does you motor run with it?
__________________
-Xray--Nosram--Orion--Trak Power--Duratrax--Spektrum--Futaba-

Sunshine Coast QLD AUSTRALIA

"If you stand still long enough you'll go backwards"
Drewdc90 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2006, 12:26 AM   #1550
Tech Lord
 
syndr0me's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: 5280 Raceway
Posts: 13,140
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

My heatsink was impossible hard to get on or move around. I think I ended up killing a motor trying to position it on the rotor. Yay. :-(
syndr0me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2006, 03:19 AM   #1551
Tech Master
 
DirtyDog3375's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Queenslander
Posts: 1,918
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to DirtyDog3375
Default

With regards to the motor clamp/heatsink. Yes it does block the use of a motor cooler (peltier type). Yes, it is difficult to put on. (needs to be to effectively transfer heat).

Leonard.
__________________
:::Smokem Racing:::RCMaker.com.au:::Speedy RC.com.au:::
==========================================================
"It's more fun to drive slow cars fast, than fast cars slow"...
DirtyDog3375 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2006, 04:26 AM   #1552
Tech Master
 
BrainTeased's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,342
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

hi guys i was wondering if anyone could help me with a small amount of info in regards to the 5800 motors.

are those optional sinerster rotors avaliable for the 5800 motors?

if i was to run both
GTB + 5800
and
SS+ esc and the 5800 motor

which setup would be faster? would GTB come out on top due to its lower resistance?

thanks in advance for all input
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com.au
BrainTeased is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2006, 04:58 AM   #1553
Tech Addict
 
rampal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Madrid, Spain
Posts: 563
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to rampal
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrainTeased
hi guys i was wondering if anyone could help me with a small amount of info in regards to the 5800 motors.

are those optional sinerster rotors avaliable for the 5800 motors?

if i was to run both
GTB + 5800
and
SS+ esc and the 5800 motor

which setup would be faster? would GTB come out on top due to its lower resistance?

thanks in advance for all input
Hi:
In order to use the sintered rotor on the 5800, you need to get velocity bearing and endbell replacement that uses the oversize bearing that fits the sintered rotor. You can get the upgrade set, but it cames with a normal rotor, that you won't use anyway.

regarding the ESCs, I think I've seen some performance reports around both escs and a 5800 motor, and GTB ones were slightly better.

al
__________________
The Blue Armada: Tamiya TRF415MSXX, Tamiya TA05MS, Tamiya/Xenon TA05
Novak Brushless, Orion/Peak LiPo batteries, 5-cell
Sanwa M11 DSSS, KO Propo Servos
rampal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2006, 05:37 AM   #1554
Tech Master
 
BrainTeased's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,342
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

thanks a million for the input al
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com.au
BrainTeased is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2006, 10:18 AM   #1555
Tech Lord
 
syndr0me's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: 5280 Raceway
Posts: 13,140
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rampal
Hi:
In order to use the sintered rotor on the 5800, you need to get velocity bearing and endbell replacement that uses the oversize bearing that fits the sintered rotor. You can get the upgrade set, but it cames with a normal rotor, that you won't use anyway.

regarding the ESCs, I think I've seen some performance reports around both escs and a 5800 motor, and GTB ones were slightly better.

al
Get the ribbed Velociti endbell instead. It's 1/2 oz lighter than the one in the upgrade kit, and doesn't come with a rotor you won't need or use. Plus, it'll let you use the sintered rotor, no problem.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMGJ4&P=7

I'm using that endbell with the sintered rotor in my 4300, no problem. The weight savings is a pretty big deal in my opinion, since the car is SO heavy on that side to begin with.
syndr0me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2006, 10:06 AM   #1556
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 166
Default

hello all

anyone knows about the weight of the new Novak Velociti 3.5R Nickel-Plated Sintered Rotor compared with the normal one?

if it is more light its very interesting for me as i am driving a 5.5 motor in a shaft car subjected to torque steer, so less weight in te rottor should mean less torque steer
DrKucho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2006, 03:57 PM   #1557
Tech Adept
 
BlueR1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 129
Default

hi.

what is "Dead band"?

i assume min drive means that the motor moves even if left in neutral

having "minimum drive" doesnt that negate "min brake"

.
BlueR1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2006, 07:43 PM   #1558
Tech Fanatic
 
FUJIMO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 896
Trader Rating: 63 (100%+)
Default BRUSHLESS TIMING

I AM HOPING SOMEONE CAN HELP ME OUT.

I HAVE SEVERAL GTB SYSTEMS AND 3 NOVAK BRUSHLESS MOTORS.

I HAVE HEARD THAT BY MOVING THE BLACK NOTCHED RING ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE MOTOR, THAT YOU CAN ADVANCE THE TIMING.

IS THIS A FACT OR FICTION ??

AND IF IT IS FACT, DO YOU INCREASE TIMING WITH A CLOCKWISE TURN OR COUNTER CLOCKWISE TURN ??

AND HOW DO YOU KNOW WHERE TO STOP AT ?

DO U TURN IT ALL THE WAY IN ONE DIRECTION OR WHAT ??

I ATTEMPTED A LOOK THROUGH THIS POST BUT WITH 52 PAGES THAT STARTED TO GET TIME CONSUMING.

ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED.

BY THE WAY, THE MOTORS ARE 3.5R, 13.5 AND 4300

THANKS, FUJIMO
FUJIMO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2006, 02:42 AM   #1559
Tech Addict
 
AngryAsian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 550
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueR1
hi.

what is "Dead band"?

i assume min drive means that the motor moves even if left in neutral

having "minimum drive" doesnt that negate "min brake"

.
Dead band is the small throttle movement allowed before the motor starts to move. More dead bands means you can pull the trigger further before things start moving...

Min drive is the initial percentage throttle that comes in. So you can choose a small initial throttle, or large initial throttle. THis is analogous to changing how much "punch" the motor has..

DItto for the brakes...

these two adjustments are independent..
AngryAsian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2006, 04:03 AM   #1560
Tech Adept
 
BlueR1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 129
Default

howdy.

would there be any issues if i used a too long a screw for the engine mount hole? i think mine went too long and i think it hit something on the inside of my 6.5r. i didnt turn on the motor though. you think this may of done damage?

also how are the older type 4300/5800 motors? do they have the same "feel" as the newer velociti motors?
BlueR1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Novak GTB 4-cell Brusless Speed Controller Greg Amendola R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 04-16-2008 12:59 PM
WTB: ASSOCIATED B44 W/ BRUSLESS SYSTEM levi m R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 1 02-15-2008 05:27 PM
brusless esc , maybe system jslider R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 1 11-18-2007 05:30 PM
Novak XBR Brusless/Brushed ESC Delyt R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 11-15-2007 09:44 AM
Novak 4.5 Brusless System Speedo/4.5 Motor w/Sintered installed mike ivy R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 10-25-2006 06:57 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:37 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net