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New Novak Brusless System

New Novak Brusless System

Old 10-23-2006, 09:23 AM
  #1546  
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J

they mount via the fins just like the heatsink on the GTB

I initially thought the heatsink replaced the purple band on the BL motor... that would have been neat. No clamping needed. Go as far replacing the ribbed ends .
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Old 10-23-2006, 09:31 AM
  #1547  
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It DOES replace the purple band on the motor
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Old 10-23-2006, 10:24 AM
  #1548  
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Originally Posted by rough512
I initially thought the heatsink replaced the purple band on the BL motor... that would have been neat. No clamping needed. Go as far replacing the ribbed ends .
it replaces the band look closely its not a clamp heatsink
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Old 10-23-2006, 11:29 PM
  #1549  
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The only problem with it is that you wouldn't really be able to use a motor cooler (freezer). How much cooler does you motor run with it?
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Old 10-24-2006, 12:26 AM
  #1550  
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My heatsink was impossible hard to get on or move around. I think I ended up killing a motor trying to position it on the rotor. Yay. :-(
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Old 10-24-2006, 03:19 AM
  #1551  
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With regards to the motor clamp/heatsink. Yes it does block the use of a motor cooler (peltier type). Yes, it is difficult to put on. (needs to be to effectively transfer heat).

Leonard.
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Old 10-24-2006, 04:26 AM
  #1552  
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hi guys i was wondering if anyone could help me with a small amount of info in regards to the 5800 motors.

are those optional sinerster rotors avaliable for the 5800 motors?

if i was to run both
GTB + 5800
and
SS+ esc and the 5800 motor

which setup would be faster? would GTB come out on top due to its lower resistance?

thanks in advance for all input
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Old 10-24-2006, 04:58 AM
  #1553  
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Originally Posted by BrainTeased
hi guys i was wondering if anyone could help me with a small amount of info in regards to the 5800 motors.

are those optional sinerster rotors avaliable for the 5800 motors?

if i was to run both
GTB + 5800
and
SS+ esc and the 5800 motor

which setup would be faster? would GTB come out on top due to its lower resistance?

thanks in advance for all input
Hi:
In order to use the sintered rotor on the 5800, you need to get velocity bearing and endbell replacement that uses the oversize bearing that fits the sintered rotor. You can get the upgrade set, but it cames with a normal rotor, that you won't use anyway.

regarding the ESCs, I think I've seen some performance reports around both escs and a 5800 motor, and GTB ones were slightly better.

al
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Old 10-24-2006, 05:37 AM
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thanks a million for the input al
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Old 10-24-2006, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by rampal
Hi:
In order to use the sintered rotor on the 5800, you need to get velocity bearing and endbell replacement that uses the oversize bearing that fits the sintered rotor. You can get the upgrade set, but it cames with a normal rotor, that you won't use anyway.

regarding the ESCs, I think I've seen some performance reports around both escs and a 5800 motor, and GTB ones were slightly better.

al
Get the ribbed Velociti endbell instead. It's 1/2 oz lighter than the one in the upgrade kit, and doesn't come with a rotor you won't need or use. Plus, it'll let you use the sintered rotor, no problem.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMGJ4&P=7

I'm using that endbell with the sintered rotor in my 4300, no problem. The weight savings is a pretty big deal in my opinion, since the car is SO heavy on that side to begin with.
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Old 10-29-2006, 10:06 AM
  #1556  
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hello all

anyone knows about the weight of the new Novak Velociti 3.5R Nickel-Plated Sintered Rotor compared with the normal one?

if it is more light its very interesting for me as i am driving a 5.5 motor in a shaft car subjected to torque steer, so less weight in te rottor should mean less torque steer
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Old 10-29-2006, 03:57 PM
  #1557  
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hi.

what is "Dead band"?

i assume min drive means that the motor moves even if left in neutral

having "minimum drive" doesnt that negate "min brake"

.
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Old 10-29-2006, 07:43 PM
  #1558  
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Default BRUSHLESS TIMING

I AM HOPING SOMEONE CAN HELP ME OUT.

I HAVE SEVERAL GTB SYSTEMS AND 3 NOVAK BRUSHLESS MOTORS.

I HAVE HEARD THAT BY MOVING THE BLACK NOTCHED RING ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE MOTOR, THAT YOU CAN ADVANCE THE TIMING.

IS THIS A FACT OR FICTION ??

AND IF IT IS FACT, DO YOU INCREASE TIMING WITH A CLOCKWISE TURN OR COUNTER CLOCKWISE TURN ??

AND HOW DO YOU KNOW WHERE TO STOP AT ?

DO U TURN IT ALL THE WAY IN ONE DIRECTION OR WHAT ??

I ATTEMPTED A LOOK THROUGH THIS POST BUT WITH 52 PAGES THAT STARTED TO GET TIME CONSUMING.

ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED.

BY THE WAY, THE MOTORS ARE 3.5R, 13.5 AND 4300

THANKS, FUJIMO
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Old 10-30-2006, 02:42 AM
  #1559  
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Originally Posted by BlueR1
hi.

what is "Dead band"?

i assume min drive means that the motor moves even if left in neutral

having "minimum drive" doesnt that negate "min brake"

.
Dead band is the small throttle movement allowed before the motor starts to move. More dead bands means you can pull the trigger further before things start moving...

Min drive is the initial percentage throttle that comes in. So you can choose a small initial throttle, or large initial throttle. THis is analogous to changing how much "punch" the motor has..

DItto for the brakes...

these two adjustments are independent..
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Old 10-31-2006, 04:03 AM
  #1560  
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howdy.

would there be any issues if i used a too long a screw for the engine mount hole? i think mine went too long and i think it hit something on the inside of my 6.5r. i didnt turn on the motor though. you think this may of done damage?

also how are the older type 4300/5800 motors? do they have the same "feel" as the newer velociti motors?
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