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New Novak Brusless System

New Novak Brusless System

Old 10-15-2006, 12:18 PM
  #1531  
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Originally Posted by dbmartin
I have discovered a cure for my thermals, For the longest time, i would keep shutting down at the 3.5 minute mark with my 4.5, I eventually switched back to the 5.5 so i would make a full race. I then in practice set my min. drive to the setting 1, from both the 2 and 3 settings. I ran 6.5 minutes in 90 degree wether. ran the same setup the hext day in both my heat / main, and did not have any shut downs. By the way, the car was still a rocket

fdr 10.17, did not try a higher gera, but didn't need to as the car was plenty fast.

Temp coming off track was 157 degrees
-
My settings were
7 on drag brake
1 on min drive
3 on the min brake setting
everything else is default.
the cure to my is I run a 11.0 with the 4.5 with the default profile #1 and with the track temperature around 140 my motor still comes of the track around 135 degrees.
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Old 10-15-2006, 12:19 PM
  #1532  
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
the cure to my is I run a 11.0 with the 4.5 with the default profile #1 and with the track temperature around 140 my motor still comes of the track around 135 degrees.
ran it today with the new heatsink and the new rotor with a 9.75 ratio and it came off the track at 106 degrees.
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Old 10-15-2006, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
Also, brushless motors stop getting faster and start getting hotter when you overgear them. They may not slow down, though, so it won't be apparent that they're overgeared. If you go up a tooth and it's not any faster, go back down a tooth for your next race. The motors often have enough torque to overcome bad gearing, but it will cause them to heat up and use more battery.
I think this statement is very correct and well said
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Old 10-15-2006, 02:42 PM
  #1534  
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Originally Posted by CIVIC91
Hey Syndrome, what's the part number for just the endbell upgrade?
You can use either the normal Velociti endbell, or the the ribbed Velociti endbell. The BRL rules for the 4300 class allow people to use the ribbed endbell. Apparently itís lightened, about 1/2 oz lighter than the regular one.

Each of these endbells has a larger bearing in the front, which will allow you to use the newer rotors. You wonít be able to use your stock SS rotor, though. Youíll be able to ditch the brass shims which will quiet the motor down a lot. I recommend the sintered rotor, personally. Iím going to be using the ribbed endbell with the sintered rotor in my 4300. Hereís the two parts:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMYJ8&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMGJ4&P=7
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Old 10-15-2006, 03:56 PM
  #1535  
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Thanks
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Old 10-15-2006, 05:20 PM
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I'm beginning to feel skeptical about the tunability of these motors. The tuners keep saying "you just wait and see," insinuating that when there's enough interest, the tuners will get around to messing with these too. While we've seen that there's a few things you can tweak, nothing at all has provided significant results. Not to mention, the motors are so damn powerful, I'm not sure anything small matters like it does with brushed motors. I think I could replace my bearings with bushings in the 4300 and it wouldn't slow down.
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Old 10-16-2006, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
with this new heat sink you can already mount any 25 x 25 mm fan with out any modifications.

How so Marcos? I looked at one at my LHS today and couldn't figure out how the fan would mount. I didn't see any screw holes . . .are teh gaps in the fins just the right size to alow M3 screws to catch and hold? Just looking for some clarification. Peace!
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Old 10-16-2006, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
How so Marcos? I looked at one at my LHS today and couldn't figure out how the fan would mount. I didn't see any screw holes . . .are teh gaps in the fins just the right size to alow M3 screws to catch and hold? Just looking for some clarification. Peace!
i put mine on the side blowing air sideways but I dont really need it since the motor comes off the track around 123 degrees
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Old 10-16-2006, 07:26 PM
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Sorry if I am not undestanding corectly . . .Does the fan attach to the heatsink/sleeve, or do you have a fan mounted to your chassis somehow just blowing on the heatsink/sleeve?
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Old 10-16-2006, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Sorry if I am not undestanding corectly . . .Does the fan attach to the heatsink/sleeve, or do you have a fan mounted to your chassis somehow just blowing on the heatsink/sleeve?
mount it on the heatsink itself
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Old 10-16-2006, 07:41 PM
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Marcos I think the key question is how do the fans attached to the heatsink - are there screw holes? Can you post a photo?
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Old 10-16-2006, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by scott_g
Marcos I think the key question is how do the fans attached to the heatsink - are there screw holes? Can you post a photo?

Yeah . . what he said.
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Old 10-16-2006, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by scott_g
Marcos I think the key question is how do the fans attached to the heatsink - are there screw holes? Can you post a photo?

they mount via the fins just like the heatsink on the GTB
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Old 10-23-2006, 01:01 AM
  #1544  
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I am looking for a brushless motor to run TC stock class. I also heard of a sintered rotor upgrade that will allow the motor to run cooler and "faster".
Does anyone know this setup?

Thanks
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Old 10-23-2006, 02:27 AM
  #1545  
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The setup you're hunting for is the Novak 13.5 motor with a GTB esc.

It is the MOST comparible motor to a regular brushed stock motor. I'm not saying that it is or isn't actually comparable. Different ppl say different things. But it is definately the closest thing they do.

Yes - this is nit picking. But someone will always want to chime in.


As for the sintered rotor - again a Novak product designed for their motors only. Improves the low down torque of the motor and is more resistant to high temps.

Check with your locla track to see what IS or ISN'T legal before buying!!

Hope that helps.
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