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New Novak Brusless System

New Novak Brusless System

Old 10-14-2006, 09:16 PM
  #1516  
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
I got a look at the new heatsink from Novak last night. It replaces the ugly purple "ring" on the motors with a new one that's got a heatsink built into it. So, it's more like a part of the motor than something that just clips on to the outside. It also comes with thermal paste to make sure you get the most heat transfer possible. I'm gonna get a black one, purple isn't my thing.

Has anybody tried polishing the can of their brushless motors? I saw that this guy did it, and thought I might give it a try. The motor would look pretty bling polished with the black heatsink. I bet it's worth 3,000 RPM at least!

HELLO LARRY BRADSHAW!!! What we need to see is a Team Tamale version of this heat sink with pretapped and positioned M3 screw holes and a 1mm standoff/lip to attach 2-3 25 mm fans like his clamp on brushed fan mount. Whos with me?!!
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Old 10-14-2006, 10:20 PM
  #1517  
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
HELLO LARRY BRADSHAW!!! What we need to see is a Team Tamale version of this heat sink with pretapped and positioned M3 screw holes and a 1mm standoff/lip to attach 2-3 25 mm fans like his clamp on brushed fan mount. Whos with me?!!
with this new heat sink you can already mount any 25 x 25 mm fan with out any modifications.
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Old 10-15-2006, 01:17 AM
  #1518  
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Is the 13.5 sold as a package with a speedy?
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Old 10-15-2006, 05:29 AM
  #1519  
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Default Help with Thermalling Problems

This has probably been answered previously but I'm asking again anyway.

We have the Australian Titles coming up in about 5 weeks and I have a few racing colleagues competiting in Mod and are running the Novak Brushless systems, all various set ups from 3.5 - 4.5 and 4 cell to 6 cell, all experience thermal shut downs at a ridiculously repetative rate.

I am aksing for a solution for two reasons, I want to help them out and figure you guy's O/S have had the system longer and any factory drivers out there might be able to help and I am looking at getting into modified brushless as well and dont want to spend a fortune on a set up thjat quite honestly is pretty crap really. Good power and all that but cant even last a five minute race here in Australia and we aren't even in our hottest part of the year.

They are trying everything they can think of like dry ice in a cap under the fan to freeze spray and the usuall oversurply of fans etc.

It is really getting stupid now and these guy's have spent a lot of money and are not getting their value so Im asking if anyone has the cure to this problem.

If you can help me out please do so as this problem has the potential to make a mockery of the driving talent we have in our Nationals Modified group.

Thanks in advance for your help
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Old 10-15-2006, 05:44 AM
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Hi zacabrandy I know of the problems you are talking about, I only finished two races (one heat and one final) at the Qld's because of thermals. Since then I have bought a motor cooler like the much more one. I tested this motor cooler today and my motor came off the track at 54 degrees C when it usually thermals or comes off at 70 degrees C. I think this is the only way to fix it as well as running as I do. Hope you don't run into any problems, it is a great system, it just runs too hot here in Aus.
Drew.
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Old 10-15-2006, 06:06 AM
  #1521  
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Originally Posted by Drewdc90
Hi zacabrandy I know of the problems you are talking about, I only finished two races (one heat and one final) at the Qld's because of thermals. Since then I have bought a motor cooler like the much more one. I tested this motor cooler today and my motor came off the track at 54 degrees C when it usually thermals or comes off at 70 degrees C. I think this is the only way to fix it as well as running as I do. Hope you don't run into any problems, it is a great system, it just runs too hot here in Aus.
Drew.
Thanks mate,

Are you talking about those Peltier coolers that we used at the Qld's prior to putting the cars on the track?

If so I'm not sure whether the guy's have been using thses things, I know they have been playing with the stuff Andy Cooke was using, the freeze spray his pit guy was spraying just before the start, but they we all still thermalling at Brendale today.

It's got me buggered how easy it is to fail. I guess Novak are working on a fix for the problem, I just hope they do it quickly and inexpensively.

Thanks again for your help mate, Ill let them now to give that a shot. Can't hurt right

Cheers
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Old 10-15-2006, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by zacabrandy
This has probably been answered previously but I'm asking again anyway.

We have the Australian Titles coming up in about 5 weeks and I have a few racing colleagues competiting in Mod and are running the Novak Brushless systems, all various set ups from 3.5 - 4.5 and 4 cell to 6 cell, all experience thermal shut downs at a ridiculously repetative rate.

I am aksing for a solution for two reasons, I want to help them out and figure you guy's O/S have had the system longer and any factory drivers out there might be able to help and I am looking at getting into modified brushless as well and dont want to spend a fortune on a set up thjat quite honestly is pretty crap really. Good power and all that but cant even last a five minute race here in Australia and we aren't even in our hottest part of the year.

They are trying everything they can think of like dry ice in a cap under the fan to freeze spray and the usuall oversurply of fans etc.

It is really getting stupid now and these guy's have spent a lot of money and are not getting their value so Im asking if anyone has the cure to this problem.

If you can help me out please do so as this problem has the potential to make a mockery of the driving talent we have in our Nationals Modified group.

Thanks in advance for your help
I think that it is a fair over statement of the problem to say "all experience thermal shut downs at a ridiculously repetative rate. " Scott was running a 3.5 today and didn't experience that problem. He is running a standard "Cool can fan" set up and having no problems. Many of teh problems are being caused by people trying to run gear ratios beyond what the motor is capable of pulling just because they are running on a large open track. Scott had on thermaling problems at the Qld's either.
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Old 10-15-2006, 06:22 AM
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I agree Heavy and you are quite correct, it's just that by rights a driver should be able to extract the limit from the product without these problems occuring all the tiem, so maybe what Scott's been doing is the limit and he now has a good set up for the titles. May not be as fast in a straight line but he will finish the race and from previous events, thats a definite advantage to have.

Hopefully though someone has found a solution and is willing to share it with us, becuase I think these systems are the way of the future so it would be nice to be able to go hard without getting cut short.
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Old 10-15-2006, 06:36 AM
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Zacabrandy, from what I saw today there were plenty of people making time without big dramas - certainly better than the hot day at the Titles 2 weeks ago. The majority of the field today were running 3.5 motors, and with ambient temps in the low-mid 30's with track temps of above 60c, I thought most of the guys had a pretty fair handle on it. Some were experimenting with gearing and had thermal issues, but by the end of the day I think most were on top of it. Most people aren't doing anything too nuts - a couple of fans and a motor cooler plus running the right gear ratios sorts the temp issue for most.

In the end the fact remains. I'd rather run the brushless and thermal if I overdrive or get the gear ratio wrong, than run brushed and throw a wind if I make the same mistakes. At least after thermal I can come back next run with a fully functional motor and correct my gear ratio and go again. It is still massive horsepower that is largely maintenance free - that's why I like it!
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Old 10-15-2006, 07:01 AM
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I have discovered a cure for my thermals, For the longest time, i would keep shutting down at the 3.5 minute mark with my 4.5, I eventually switched back to the 5.5 so i would make a full race. I then in practice set my min. drive to the setting 1, from both the 2 and 3 settings. I ran 6.5 minutes in 90 degree wether. ran the same setup the hext day in both my heat / main, and did not have any shut downs. By the way, the car was still a rocket

fdr 10.17, did not try a higher gera, but didn't need to as the car was plenty fast.

Temp coming off track was 157 degrees
-
My settings were
7 on drag brake
1 on min drive
3 on the min brake setting
everything else is default.
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Old 10-15-2006, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by zacabrandy
I agree Heavy and you are quite correct, it's just that by rights a driver should be able to extract the limit from the product without these problems occuring all the tiem, so maybe what Scott's been doing is the limit and he now has a good set up for the titles. May not be as fast in a straight line but he will finish the race and from previous events, thats a definite advantage to have.

Hopefully though someone has found a solution and is willing to share it with us, becuase I think these systems are the way of the future so it would be nice to be able to go hard without getting cut short.
The new arm solves all that but it's not Roar legal yet. Also another thing I've seen from racers out my way is that they are all over geared. I run mine at 11.1-10.6 FDR with a 4.5 motor. I don't run on a huge track like some of the over seas guys but I'm heavy on the breaks which heats up the fets which adds to the thermal issues. Are some of you heavy on the breaks as well???? Just trying to throw a few ideas out there.
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Old 10-15-2006, 07:58 AM
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Yea, if you can get away with it, use the sintered rotor in your motors. That seems to be the cure for the thermal problem. If you've got guys running the 3.5, then they're running the sintered rotor, so I assume your rules allow for it, or don't care. If that's the case, buy it separately and put it in your 4.5's and 5.5's. Most people drop 30 degrees right away.

Also, brushless motors stop getting faster and start getting hotter when you overgear them. They may not slow down, though, so it won't be apparent that they're overgeared. If you go up a tooth and it's not any faster, go back down a tooth for your next race. The motors often have enough torque to overcome bad gearing, but it will cause them to heat up and use more battery.
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Old 10-15-2006, 08:47 AM
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Hey Syndrome, what's the part number for just the endbell upgrade?
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Old 10-15-2006, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by CIVIC91
Hey Syndrome, what's the part number for just the endbell upgrade?
the part # is 5415, mine's blue btw.....
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Old 10-15-2006, 10:35 AM
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I'm looking for the endbell upgrade for the ss4300, not the new heatsinks...thanks
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